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Upon replacing the tilt trim t/t electric motor we needed to drain the old fluid and flush system to be sure no water/etc was present. When removing the brass drain plug the head stripped loose and we had to tap it out. It is out now but has a hole in it. Having a time finding replacement part. J100STLETS

Has anyone out there ever had this problem? I have not been able to find this part number. It is at the bottom of the assembly and to access this you must look up under the bracket and use an allen type wrench. It is a brass socket head screw that seems to have a taper. I can not see this when looking online at the parts diagrams. My eyes are getting weak. If you can see it please let me know part number. T/t electric motor is running fine now and need to refill fluid and go boating.


Thanks fellow Whaler owners for any help.

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You can probably find one that will work at most hardware stores. My not be brass, but should work until you can find one

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That was a good idea and I have been all over town, it has a fine thread, the closest bolt I did find goes in like less than a 1/2 turn and then is "tight". Do not want to mess the threads up.

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Could it be a pipe plug?

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Take a look on BRP Online Catalog for the part number.
A dealer should be able to fix you right up.
http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.a...f0d78653da

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I have e mailed my dealer where I bought the boat.

I had looked before on BRP online and it does not show this part or I am too old to see it. I have startyed to work on the wiring and today redid all the connectors under the dash. What do you use for a ground bus bar?

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Which Johnson 1992 100 hp "model" is it ?
E100STLEND
E100WTLENE
E100WTXENE
VE100SLEND

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I just had trim tilt failure in one of my Johnson 70s (J70TLECB). The motor dropped just after I raised it and there was a sheen on the water. After much investigation, I found that new fluid would just squirt out of this drain hole - the plug was missing. My guess is that it corroded away.

I cannot find one either and the manual diagrams do not even show it.

Have you had any luck finding one? -Mark

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If it is that hard to locate an OEM, and yes I too like to replace with OEM when I can, Why not re-thread to something you can find. I understand I may maybe talking out of my a@# since I haven't seen the project but unless it has some special sporty machining to it, it's just a plug.

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I have bought 5 or 6 different set screws and test fitted them. 1/4" is too small, 5/16 is too big. I need to find 9/32". I also tried metric and 6mm is too small, 8mm too big, and no one has 7mm.

My local OMC shop guy said it did not exist. Then he found an old one TNT unit in the shop. It was missing the plug as well.

I just took some pictures of my missing one as well as the other motor's trim tilt with the plug still in. Not sure how to post them in a thread yet.

I am just reluctant to tap a new hole with the unit still on the boat. I had everything off except the lower horizontal pivot rod at the bottom of the TNT assembly. My recessed transom with twins is tight. Hard to hammer the rod out as the hull is 5-6" away and the rod is 8-9".
-Mark

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Could you possibly use a flat head screw instead of a set screw untill you can locate the OEM? You may have a better shot at finding that vs a setscrew. If you have a really nice hardware store in your area you'll have a better shot at finding it there more so than a building supply.

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It shows JT100STLETS (?) on the motor plate

100 GT Johnson it is a 93 model, sorry for the confusion.

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Mark
:

I did speak to my marine dealer today and he said he spent twenty minutes looking at his parts listings and could not locate this as an available replacement part.

He did say to try a screw that had 1/8 pipe thread, (fine thread) and that this brass plug was probably lock tite secured at the factory and not meant to be removed. He said if they had to drain a t/t they remove the entire unit and drain it via the fill opening....

I did measure this brass plug as a 5/16". As best I could with fine threads.

STANDBY as I have just taken some pictures if I can get them posted.

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That would be a 1993 model by the model number on the plate.

I don't understand why a dealer doesn't have or can't get this part.

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I have been to 3 marine dealers, True Value, Home Depot, Lowes, and Fastenal so far.

As a boat owner of 35 plus years I am not giving in, I am just getting motivated.

Like the Coast Guard says, "Don't worry Elvis, if your out there we'll find you."

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Joe, I really don't know either,

I had gone to another marine dealer and his son said they had an old t/t in a box that was for parts and I could have the part if they could get it off.

Well, he put a wrench to her and she did the same thing, rounded her off just like warm butter.

I am going back on line to see if 1993 may show this, but I think I already tried that.

Just took some photos on my digital camera would like to share.

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MARK you and I are looking for the same thing.

I measured the brass plug as a 5/16 and you are at a 9/32, we are getting awful close there, don't retreat. It needs to be 27 threads per inch. very fine.

Do we have a machinist out there that can help?

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One way to tell, if you still have the plug, is what nut fits this plug?

When I have some odd ball type of bolt, I try all the nuts to see which one will fit.
Fine thread, metric, whatever...
Unless of course it is a pipe plug then nothing will fit.

Below is a photo of the plug.

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Turpin, I agree with you for sure and this is on our plan B list.

It is in one of those hard to get at spots.

What's new, that's why they call it boating.

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I have considered taking the plug out of my other motor's trim tilt and using it to shop with. I am afraid it would strip out and I would then be looking for two.

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If you find the right one, then by all means buy a handful..........This is almost crazy in that a thirty cents part (oops, forgot it's for a boat) I mean a $4.00 part can hold hostage a multi-thousand dollar piece of equipment.

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I like "tk's" "Damn the Torpedo's" attitude ! (not giving up the ship). Did you try here:
Outboard Service Corp.
516-379-7212 parts
516-379-4221 sales
open Sat & Sun..........A LARGE "Factory Authorized" Dealer
or
The Outboard Wizard
631-991-4491- tech help
631-514-1525- parts

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MM and everyone here is the information from BRP online if you want take a look at the assembly diagram and if you see this part PLEASE tell me.

BRP Online Diagram
Manufacturer Johnson Outboard Motor Parts
Catalog Johnson Outboard Parts
Year 1993
Model J100STLETS 1993
Component POWER TRIM-TILT HYDRAULIC ASSEMBLY

I looked again, and I just don't see it on there.

MM: I will just spoke to a great guy at Outboard service, he knew exactly the piece and said it is a "non serviceable" part, it was used by the manufacturer for access and not to be removed. He suggests getting one made (stainless)with the correct 1/8 thread.

Am heading over to the last marine store in town I have not been to yet, just in case.

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Joe many thanks for posting of the picture (SEE POST #18 Page 1) so everyone sees exactly the part we are looking for.

From the picture you all will see the tap went clean through the plug leaving a hole.

Could you fill the hole as another "Plan B"?

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Am heading over to the last marine store in town I have not been to yet, just in case.[/quote]



This morning one of my boating and fishing buddies came by and we went across town to West Marine.

Showed the part to store Manager and he said he had nothing close that would fit.

Anyone know who may have been the original supplier of t/t for johnson motors?

Next week will go to a machine shop when they open....

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It sure seems like there would be a marine shop somewhere around that would have an old junk motor around that you could rob..........

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Please See #16

I had gone to another marine dealer and his son said they had an old t/t in a box that was for parts and I could have the part if they could get it off.

Well, he put a wrench to her and she did the same thing, rounded her off just like warm butter.

NOTE TO ALL LOOKING FOR THIS PART:

I just e mailed Anderson products with pictures of what I am looking for, they have a lot of brass fittings. Should hear back first of the week.

Kept busy rewiring my console. Had an invasion of a family of squirrels who liked the taste of wire it seems.

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Well I did get a reply back from Anderson products (suppliers of numerous brass fittings) that they did not carry this part. I do thank them for a quick and kind response.

They did suggest to go to a local Fastenal store.

I had been there but plan on going back and see if I can speak to the manager. A young person was covering the register there during lunch one day a couple weeks ago when I went in.

MAYBE the manager can figure a part we can use.

Talk about a great boat trip, my neighbor just left for the Florida Keys for lobster mini season. I have done this twice and it is a real experience. More like an invasion.

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You could have a machine shop make the part.

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Went back to Fastenal and did speak to manager.

He looked all over and could not find anything that would fit, says it appears as a 28 taper thread. Something the manufacturer came up with which he says is not unusual they do it to sell their own parts. (Hey) ok so (Johnson) just sell the part then if you are going to put it on a motor.

Also tried a mower/chain saw distributor, car parts and Lowes (again) in a downpour.

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Looking over thread sizes....

Standard Taper pipe size is 1/8npt-27 Threads.

THere is however, a 1/8 BSPT, which is a British pipe size, at 28 threads per inch.
British Pipe sizes are pretty common in use in Hydraulic applications such as this.

A good source for fitting of this type can be found at McMaster-Carr
Here's a link:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-st...pe/=2yjfly

THis company offers these fitting ion various materials including brass, steel and stainless steel. I would use the brass, as the STainless steel is gummy material becuase of the nickel in the stainless steel. if it's going into an aluminum housing, it's going to make trouble for you later on. I would stick with the brass version.

Hope this helps. BTW. I'm a machinist/tool maker for the last 30 years.

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elmroc,

My thanks to you is not enough.

Your expertise and experience (a machinist/tool maker) was what we needed all along on this search.

Am I on the right page here as far as asking them for a BSPT 1/8" brass plug;

NPT and BSPT/BSPP Threads

"The European equivalent to NPT tapered threads is BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper) threads. BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) threads are straight (parallel) threads and have the same angle, shape, and threads per inch (pitch) as BSPT threads. BSPT and BSPP threads are not compatible with and should not be substituted for NPT threads."

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Nice work elmroc!,

I visited the site and this looks like you have gotten us close. Looking deeper I found this in nickel plated yellow brass for $1.40:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4860k131/=2y...31/=2ykj05

tkhvdh, Thanks to you too for your hard work. I cannot tell from the photo Joe posted but do you definitely think you see a taper to the threads?

-Mark

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That looks like the little bugger in Joe's Photo.

Is that how the sample you have look?

And also, if you want to convert it to something more standard, they sell also a BSPT to NPT Bushing so that you can change it over to NPT if you want.

I wouldn't do it, but just in case.

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Yes, it seems several folks have agreed it is a taper fitting when I showed it to them.

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Does the one in my link look right to you?

What the heck I May order a couple as this seems like as close as we are gonna get. Have we ruled out NPT sizing?

My Sister and her family are in town 'til Saturday. I would love to get this resolved by FRI morning. She was last on this Whaler back in the '80s when my Grandfather owned it.

-Mark

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Mark Sr

I just ordered if you want to wait I will tell you for sure, but I feel much better that Elmroc is on point with the BSPT and this shows why NPT threads were just not working when I took this part to so many different places to try to size it.



Elmroc

Did I say that right ?

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Thanks, I ordered two as well.

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My order arrived already. As usual I am perplexed by pipe sizing. Unless they sent me the wrong size (which I doubt), this plug is way too big for my use. It is 1/8" BSPT threads but is really close to 1/4" in diameter. Maybe the 1/16" is the size we need.

It appears that this is the smallest BSPT plug they offer. I did find this though: http://www.mcmaster.com/#50785k167/=2...67/=2yya8e, but it is NPTF.

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hmmmvery strange Mark.

The 2nd one you potsed wouldn't be it, becuase it shows to be 27 threads (tpi). Fastental measured 28 tpi Correct?

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Mark,

Here's actual sizing on the 1/8 BSPT Screw/Plug size,

Major Dia=.383
Minor Dia=.337
Depth of thread=.022
28 Threads per inch
Pitch Dia.=.360

Size of 1/16 BPST

28 threads per inch
Major Dia=.304
Minor Dia=.258
Depth of thread=.022
Pitch Dia.=.281

To give Reference....

1/8 NPT Sizes are

maj dia=.370
27 TPI

and 1/16 NPT

Maj Dia.=.285
27 TPI

Lastly, If you have a decent sample of this, i can whip some out within a day, if you can't get anywhere with matching up these sizes. Let me know

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Guys,
if a few of you need this, and are coming up empty, if one of you can send me a good working sample, i can make this up for those who need it.

Just let me know

John(elmroc)

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Mark and John, My order has not arrived as of 3:00 EST.

How was it delivered?

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I can mail you the part I have if this new plug does not work when I get it, Part should be here Friday but I am leaving camping and will get back to you and Mark. I have some more photos if you want I can email them.

Thanks John and Mark,

TKHVDH

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Guys,

Let me know, and i will make these up for you.
Throw me a PM, and i will get you my address to get them made.

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The parts arrived and it is too large a diameter.

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John, The plug I removed and two replacements (wrong size) were Express Mailed to you.

Many thanks for your kind help.

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i'll look out for them, and get them squared away.

When i get them, i'll inspec to determine their exact size spec, and post here.

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OK Guys….i got the plug that Tom sent.



It’s not NPT, It’s not NPS, it’s not BPTS or BPS….



Still working on identification.



Measured up as the following sizes….



Diameter @ Taper Big end: .305 dia.

Diameter @ Taper Small end: .283

Pitch: 27 TPI

Thread Depth .022

Overall length: .292



Stay tuned guys.



John

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ok Guys.....

Here's the verdict.

this plug is a 1/16-27 NPT, 7/8 taper flush seal plug.

Basically, it's identical to a standard 1/6-NPT pipe size, but having a more aggresive 7/8 taper per foot, which allows this plug to seal out on the last 1-2 threads, creating a flush mounted sealed plug

I hope this helps anyone who needs help with it. If the admins want to put a link to this info for future owners, or a link to my contact info, Admins can please contact me.

Happy whalering.....

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Elmroc,

The Express Mail just arrived a few minutes ago.

I opened the pack and just installed the new part. It fits her perfect and that is just what it needed. Should I put some sealer on it?

THANK YOU from all of us to a great Whaler friend.

Mark Sr,

I am mailing you several plugs for your T/T motor courtesy of Elmroc.

Will go to Post Office in the a.m.

Does anyone else have this problem with t/t plug?

"Whaler Owners never give up"

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Tom/John,

Got my hands on the delivery today. Screwed the plug right in and started to add fluid. It is taking quite a bit, and I need to freshen up on the proper fill/bleed process and buy more fluid.

I need to buy a couple minor parts to re-assemble properly, as I had almost finished removing the entire t/t assembly and some plastic pieces were damaged. Luckily these minor parts have p/#s.

Thanks to all who commented on this post, and members like tkhvdh and elmroc are what makes this forum invaluable.

-Mark Sr

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TO EVERYONE AT WhalerCentral,

PLEASE fellow Whaler owners note the kindness and generosity of elmroc (John) who came to the rescue of fellow Whalers in need.

Elmroc used his expertise to solve a problem and come up with a solution. His going above and beyond the call of duty is what makes all Whaler owners a proud group.

The Whaler Central gang is one big family with relatives all over the world.

No strangers, just friends like elmroc.

He never gave up the ship.

TKH

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THanks for the kind words guys.

Glad i can help you guys out!

Enjoy the rest of your boating season!

John

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I got my t/t system flushed out good last night. Got it full and was just not having luck pressurizing the unit. Glanced at the manual where it said "fastrac system will not work properly w/ manual release valve open". I remembered that I had unscrewed it to lift the motor all the way up a few weeks back. I ran outside and tightened it up and I now have a fully operating system. Just in time for Hurricane Bill's waves to shake up the Bay.

Thanks again guys,

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Spent the day completing the following on my 17 Montauk:

Installed new plug (Thanks elmroc) with locktite
Filled T/T with fluid
Ran T/T several up and down cycles, added more fluid
Routed wires from new T/T motor to maintain clearance
All old gas emptied from tank and fresh fuel in tank
Fresh oil
Sparkplugs pulled, cleaned, and replaced
New battery and box installed
Fuel lines cleaned and new fuel filter
Water ears hooked up and fired motor up.

Ran great for a few minutes then died out.
Appears there is air getting into fuel line.
May be coming from connection at fuel tank or bad bulb?

Anyone had this situation?

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May be elementary, but is the arrow on the fuel line bulb pointing towards the motor?

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Hey Tom,

Good thought, yes the bulb arrow and the fuel filter arrow are all pointing to motor. Your input is always welcome as you never know just what it may be with an outboard.

I think I can hear some air from around fittings. When clearing out the fuel lines I may have hurt the fittings, just not positive. I did check the pick up tube in tank and it does not appear clogged.

Like your 15, what a great boat.

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RUNNING/ HAS IDLE PROBLEM 100 HP Johnson OMC 1993

Yesterday I bought two new fuel line fittings for OMC. Had heard air sound when trying to get prime.

Removed the in line filter and bulb then held a prime. Did not have to use my two new fittings. Think air was getting into filter?

Boat fired on first try this morning and ran great with throttle up but doesn't want to stay running at idle. Blowing lots of smoke. (old oil in line)

Water pump is showing a good stream.

BTW T/T is operating thanks to ELMROC.

Any suggestions on idle ????

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I'm not familiar with your 100, but my 90 SPL had an idle "problem" when I first got it which I found to be a choke issue. It has a primer solenoid that has a bypass switch for emergency pull starting. It bypasses the carbs and dumps fuel right in. The switch wasn't fully closed resulting in a rough and smoky idle. It seems you have a VRO so you have a different fuel pump/choke system, but if you've looked at everything else it might be worth some investigation.

I'm not an outboard mechanic, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. /jk

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I'm not familiar with your 100, but my 90 SPL had an idle "problem" when I first got it which I found to be a choke issue. It has a primer solenoid that has a bypass switch for emergency pull starting. It bypasses the carbs and dumps fuel right in. The switch wasn't fully closed resulting in a rough and smoky idle. It seems you have a VRO so you have a different fuel pump/choke system, but if you've looked at everything else it might be worth some investigation.



Hey Bo Neato,

Thanks for the reply great idea, I do have a manual choke (red lever) on front of motor near carbs, it may be in the wrong position. All that smoke cleared the insects out of my garage.

Does anyone out there know correct position?

I will give that a try for sure....she was running like old times except for idle!

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That's the one, it's red and comes to a point. My F-I-L and I spent the better part of an afternoon working on the idle until we figured out what the red "fugiggliometer" dial was for and that it was knocked out of position. It rotates 180°, pointed perpendicular to centerline it's "off", pointed perpendicular to starboard (on my 90SPL) it's in "manual choke" position. Spin it out, then back to centerline and fire it up.

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BTW, does anyone know what the "valve stem" (looks like it belongs on a tire) on the primer solenoid is for?

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Just rebuilt one of these off a mid 80's 175 HP as the red primer lever body had cracked and was leaking fuel.

Bo's correct, the red lever should be rotated so that it's pointing toward the solenoid (or you could say toward the base of the solenoid. This is the Run position. 180 degree rotation is the Start or Prime position, pointing away from the solenoid.

The valve is for the connection of a can of fogging oil, makes the winterizing process much easier. The can style looks very similar to the "fix a flat" can that has the clear plastic tubing on it and the screw on fitting at the end.

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Derwd and Bo

You all were right on point, I had to wait till grandson woke up from his nap to start her up. . Took cowl off motor and red lever was pointing towards starboard, turned lever clockwise and then she fired right off. I think I had moved the lever when I was cleaning motor up a week ago or so. After holding choke in several times got her running at idle. Started three times in a row as soon as you hit the key.

Have new gas but some old oil, could that be the smoking going on or just old buildup?. Should I SEA FOAM her?

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If she was running fine before all this happened, my guess is you have an air leak somewhere in your fuel line. When that happens, it causes the VRO pump to cycle much more frequently, and that produces the excess smoke. Happened on my '87 225 when we first got the boat, and when I fixed the air leak, the reduction in the amount smoke was dramatic.

If you have or can get a clear length of fuel line and install it right before the VRO pump, you can visibly see if there's air entering the system or not.

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I cleaned off my plugs and added Seafoam to my fuel right afterward. It's a smoker anyway, everytime I fire her up I feel like a kid again so I don't mind.

Could the fogging valve be a simple solution for Seafoaming a warm engine?

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I touched that red knob by accident on my old 48spl when I first got my boat, would'nt idle right after that (kept stalling at low idle). I brought it to a repair shop, they re-build the carbs, same problem. I told a mechanic at work about it (who knew about outboards) and he said "They re-built carb's on a 3 yr old engine" ???? he took a look at my running motor and asked "Did you touch this red knob" I said "I dunno', he spun it back and "BAM", she smoothed right out, then he shot me the "Hairy Eyeball".

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It was time to take the Whaler to the river today for a sea trial. 100 HP 1993 Johnson GT fired right up and we headed down the channel toward the the main river. Tilt/trim worked fine. Good stream was noted from water pump. Motor ran fine at idle and at top speed. She was happy to be back on the water.

About a half mile down river we got a steady warning horn. We pulled up to a city boat ramp to shut off motor and let it sit for a minute to see if we could determine cause. As we were heading back up river to the marina another boater pulled up to see if he could help. He was a marine tech from the marina we had launched from earlier. He asked several questions and then advised several things as to what may be causing the warning horn including low oil/fuel pressure or overheating. He said to remove the cowl and check the two cylinder heads for heat. Once the cowl was off we unhooked the brown wire going to each head to see if that was causing the warning. Once the port side wire was disconnected the warning horn stopped. That cylinder head was also hotter than starboard side.

We got her back on trailer and took her home. It appears that the port thermostat is not opening. After over an hour of working to remove three bolts holding thermostat housing, which was hard to access because of the way it was designed. Sure enough when I got there it was the port thermostat corroded shut. This is the second time I have had this cover off to work on the thermostats.

Anyone kniow an easy way to deal with these bolts?

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You say work on the thermostats...

I would suggest replacing both with new thermostats and new gaskets...

I don't have any idea on the problem with the bolts as I don't know that engine.
If you got them out, they should go back in.

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Your right Joe,

I do think r/r of the thermostats will fix the problem. I had done this once before, just didn't think they had gone bad again as I always flush her out with fresh water.

Sometime back I recall reading a thread on WF where a member commented about the terrible access on this model engine ( 93 Johnson 100GT) to the thermostats housing.

Does anyone know a better "way to skin the cat" on getting this cover on and off?

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UPDATE Good News WC members

Thermostats have been r/r. It took about an hour to get the housing removed although there is only three bolts holding them in. The Johnson folks must have been trying to capture Houdini with this design. But be careful cause when they do come loose there are two springs inside. R/r is just a reverse of removal. That is the easy part, getting all those parts/gaskets/springs to stay in place while getting the three bolts lined up is the trick. Well all I can say is we left to go to the river at about 4:15 after working all afternoon.

GOOD NEWS she fired up and we never did get a warning horn or any overheating.

Wide open and idle seemed ok. Later while idling up stream I tried to give her throttle and she died out. Can I be getting air in the fuel line? Later she did throttle up without dying but now seems sluggish compared to earlier. Let me say when she is running right she will throw you out of this Whaler if your not hanging on.....

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Derwd24 "If she was running fine before all this happened, my guess is you have an air leak somewhere in your fuel line."

You were right, when we cranked her today at home she is leaking air/fuel right before the in line filter. I bet a new fitting will fix this.

She fired on the first crank.

Thanks Derwd24 for the PM also.

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Sorry for not updating you all on my repairs to fuel line. We have a had some days of bad weather, high seas and rain...

If it does not stop soon I am getting in my lifeboat (Whaler) in the driveway.

Need to test out fuel line at full load and see if the problem with bogging down is fixed.

Does anyone know of a good spray on rust inhibitor for my new tilt/trim motor? I do not want to lose this one to rust.

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I picked up a couple of cans of the BRP Anti-Corrosion spray (link below) at the start of this season, used it on a couple of items on the trailer (salt water use). Not a long term test, but so far so good:

http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accesso...osionSpray

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Thanks Derwd24

Next Project on the Johnson 100 is to sand off old paint from lower unit and repaint. I plan on purchasing paint from OMC and doing this during the fall. Also would like to update parts of my trailer. I have newer tires but need some work on rollers and bunks.

Any suggestions on getting down to a good base for repaint?