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I was already in the process of re-doing the teak (thanks for all the help on that) on my 1985 18.5' Outrage and found a weak sport on the deck right in front of my center console where the ice chest usually sits. It seems like the wood is rotting underneath. I have read some threads on re-doing this but have never dealt with fiberglass outside of repairing small holes. Is this a project that a novice can tackle???

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I have a 1985 Outrage 18'...

Isn't there a deck plate right under the cooler ?
Mine has one there so you have access to the vent for the fuel line.
Take the deck plate off and see what the floor looks like underneath. Maybe use a mirror.

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I keep putting the wrong year It is a 1983..... I removed the deck plate under the cooler and felt underneath and definitely have wood rot.

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Doug,
This great article by Jeff shows one solution to your problem. Also you can see what's below the floor in the illustrations. Although the article is about a 22 Outrage its still relevant to your 18. Good luck.

Paul Harold
83 18' Outrage
Hollywood Hills, California

http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=8

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Hi!!, I have a 1990 19 outrage, same hull as yours, and had to do mine as well. I knew it when I bought the boat 2 1/2 years ago. I read the article as mentioned and a few others before tackling the project. One word of advice!! don't rush through it!! The tools that I used were the skill saw, for the cutting of the old fiberglass, a rubber malet and a 3" floor tile chisle ( from Harbor frieght tools ). It was a JOB getting the old wood/fiberglass cleared off and took a few days but, was worth it. Oh, I forgot to mention a GOOD pair of leather work gloves. The reason I chose the rubber malet is to fold: MYfingers on the chisle and the damage that a regular big hammer might produce to the deck itself, note one of the pics in Jeff VERY informative article. I used 1/4" birch ply 1st and then used 1/2" marine ply. After cuting the ply, I sealed it in resin, then applied tthe wood to the deck. Use lots of wieght to hold the wood down to get a good bond to the underside of the deck. Project took me about 12 days all in all, and good weather, as I had to work outside. Good luck with the project, take your time. It will be rewarding in the end. Take pictures while the project is progressing. PM me if you have any questions.

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Is there a reason for layering instead of using 3/4" marine plywood all one piece? There is a lumber yard here where I can get a 4'x10' sheet of 3/4" marine plywood.

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Yes,

The more layers you use the stronger the part will be. I used 5 layer 1/4" ply so, with 3 layers of board I had 15 layers of strength. If you use one layer of 3/4" plywood you probably will only end up with 7 layers if strength.

Also, by layering the plywood you are able to capture invading moisture better. For example all of the screws I used to install the hardware back to the deck only went in less than a 1/2". So, if the sealant failed for a screw water would only get into 2 layers and not the entire thing.

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Hi, useing thinner sheets is also easier to handle, cut to fit and put ih place for the final process. Also as said it does provide extra strenghth as each piece is glued together and there are no voids to hold moisture. Don't forget to use alot of weight to put pressure on the wood to aid in the bonding process. Bags of sand or rocks, gym weights, concrete blocks are some examples you can use. Oh yea, don't forget to stagger the plywood joints to help with the strenghth.

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Alright I will start the process of taking out my center console tomorrow so I can take out the deck. I will take plenty of pictures and surely ask plenty of questions. Tonight however I must watch LSU beat Texas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!