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As some of you may know, I've been trying to resolve some problems with the Loadrite 5 Starr trailer I recently purchased. The main problem is that 17 inches of my boat stick past the end of trailer. http://www.danwagner.com/Loadrite5920.../index.htm

Dealing with my dealer was a dead end, so I had to contact Loadrite directly.

Here's the latest: I just spoke with the Loadrite regional rep. He doesn't want to put me on a longer trailer.

Instead he wants to change my bunks to ones that are longer. The bunks will have some sort of "U-shaped" metal reinforcing bracket that provides extra support at the end.

He will provide the correct size spare tire. (I was given the wrong size and returned it)

The lower front heavy duty bow stop roller will be adjusted.

A $1.50 protective rubber bumper piece will be attached to the center piece that protrudes back from where the two side pieces meet.

The trailer will be attached to a different vehicle to determine if the trailer is wired properly. (currently when I attach to my car the trailer lights all come on, even though car is off)

The rep will also have the center light bar at back of trailer re-attached -- the dealer removed it because he didn't have the proper bracket for use with keel rollers. The rep told me it's a law that the red center light be there. Unreal, the dealer really screwed up on this one. However, with the boat extending (on bunks) this far past the end of trailer, it will make the center light bar much harder to see -- especially for vehicles that are taller, like SUV's and trucks.

There was an option to have the square style bunks that they sell with aluminum trailers installed, but I was told these would be less adjustable and might make my 2 keel rollers non-functional.

The regional rep told me he's spoken to Boston Whaler in the past and keel rollers aren't necessary, just bunks. I don't agree. With longer bunks, the transom will not be resting on keel roller, but on bunk.

I told the rep that I don't want to have to go back to the original dealer (who didn't care and was abusive). Fortunately I located a nearby boat/trailer dealer who's also a Loadrite dealer, and they can schedule me in without a problem.

The rep told me this is a 2-man 4-hour job, and that Loadrite will be paying the labor. I will have to leave the boat/trailer for a day or two.

Here's the big question in my mind. Wouldn't it be a lot easier to just put me on a different longer trailer? I know Loadrite's primary goal is to keep me on this trailer.

I welcome your thoughts. I don't want this to get screwed up.

Thank you.

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I think that you should have never been sold that trailer for that boat but I do not know the whole story there. I would however agree that if you are going to keep the trailer the square style bunks will give more support at the transom. I had a 20 foot whaler on a aluminum trailer. Those bunks are solid wood, cypress I think. I do not see any way to support a thinner board that far back. I would not debate the need for keel rollers on any boat as you seem to have your mind made up. My feeling is that the more surface area you spread a load over the better it is on whatever you are supporting. Over time I think The thinner board will warp. Also I would be concerned about a metal part that is not common to all trailers as I live near salt water were it would eventually need replacing. It seems to me if the dealer sold you the incorrect trailer that they should let you pay a little up charge to a correct trailer. It would seem that by agreeing to modify the trailer you have they must agree that you did not get a proper fit for your boat.

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Can you move the winch forward? Try jackknifing it and see how far forward the whole setup can move on the frame before you risk contact with the back of the truck. You might gain 6" or a foot.

What kind of tie-downs do you use? I use straps on the rear tow eyes down to the trailer frame. The PO had the boat sticking out like yours when I bought it and the straps were wearing the gel coat off the bottom corners of the transom. I moved the boat (and winch) forward and the bunks and axle back until the trailer frame and transom were about in line vertically. This change would also place your bow roller farther underneath where it will support the weight. It isn't doing much the way it is now.

If your trailer is too short to accomodate these changes I think you should ask for a longer trailer. You put a lot of money into that outfit and someone was pretty careless about rigging it. I wouldn't settle for less. .02

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You were sold the wrong trailer for the boat. The company should replace the trailer with you that fits. 100% of your boat should be over the trailer frame, not held by bunks that extend well beyond it, at least not by 10 inches.
Does the trailer have an extendable tongue? I know on my COX trailer, I can pull the tongue out and basically make a longer trailer?

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Dan, I measured my trailer and wanted to see if yours was close . I measured from the V under the bow eye around the frame and came up with 16' 8". Let me know if I can measure something else . BG

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No way is that set up right. How did you wind up with your boat on that trailer in the first place. Did the dealer insist it's correct or did you spec it and he gave you what you asked for? If they sold you on that unit I'd go crazy with them until they made it right. Go crazy til the call the police. Because I am not even sure it would be legal to tow that boat on that trailer...:o The dealer and the rep ought to be smart enough to realize they could liable if something bad happens to you, your boat, or someone else on the road...

You definitely want rollers under the keel. The keel is the strongest part of the boat and where the weight should be. The bunks are meant only to stabilize the boat, not bear weight.

From the pictures you can't move the post far enough forward and the tongue can't be extended either.

I am curious what kind of tongue weight you have set up like that?

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I agree that that trailer does not fit your boat, I see what they say about making the bunks longer but this is doing nothing more than trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. If you stick with this trailer you'll probably never be satisfied and it will most likely give endless trouble in the future.

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The trailer length is too short. Don't accept a mismatch!!! See if the "rep" will work with you on gettting the correct one. On my trailer, the wheel center is right at the back of the leaning post, with a tonge wieght of 300 lbs. The tire size is the same as what you have now. The trailer is an EZ LOADER alum. mod.ALB 18-20/22 3100 (cap.) The boat is a 1990 19 outrage with a 150 etec. GOOD LUCK with sorting out the trailer!

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Sound's to me like a "Band-aid" solution to the problem. Everyone's suggestion's pretty much covered it well. I would contact "Corprate Headquarter's" on this one, and raise the "Safety" & "Liability" issue.

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It will be interesting to see if the manufacturer will do much more than they have already done. The transaction was with the dealer, not the manufacturer. What did the puchase agreement say about sutability and fitness, if anything?

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Whalerdan, I believe you taken advantage off! Long bunkers will support your boat, but they need to be the large cypress bunkers turned on edge. I had a 5,000 lb Grady White on this style trailer. It was alluminum I-Beam with no rollers. Your boat does not need to rest on rollers. My 15' sport is on the rollers while I'm driving it forward, but as it comes into the bow stop it is lifted by the hull shape where the keel rollers are no longer touching. Remember the old all roller trailers! Multiple individual rollers to support the hull. Whaler screwed up with that design. On whaler hulls it's all about square inches. I would rather have bunker support than roller support. Do not worry about that! However, I have never seen large cypress bunkers on a gavanized frame trailer, only I-beam trailers. It is going to lift your boat up 6 to 12 inches. This will let the boat go forward on the bow stop so some adjustment will have to be made.
I could not find anything on the center light issue. I feel that is bull, how will it be seen behind the motor lower unit?
I can not believe you can not shame the person who sold you that under sized trailer to work with you and make it right. If nothing else put "NEVER BUY A TRAILER FROM" in front of their bussiness name on the trailer. That will help other boaters from being taken advanage off!!

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Dan,
Is it possible to move the bow stop forward on the trailer to move the boat more forward? If not then they need to replace the tongue with a longer one so you can move it forward. I just measured my trailer and as currently setup it is 20 feet in total length. If you can't move it forward because you have a hatch that will not open, then try to get a longer tongue section. Also, on my trailer the boat hangs over 3 inches past the last keel roller, 6 inches past the trailer frame.
Whaler does currently sell only bunk trailers and so he is probably asking them about current. The keel is still the strongest part of the boat and it is better to have keel rollers and rely on the bunks for stability then rest all the weight on the bunks. It also makes loading and unloading so much easier.

Rather than have them put longer bunks on, have them shift the entire boat forward.

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Kamie, trust me, any and all adjustments that could be made, have been made. Trailer is the wrong size and has to be replaced with longer model.

I wouldn't be concerned at all if my overhang was only 3 inches past last keel roller.

Center light bar will be very visible on correct length trailer because motors are slightly tilted up during towing, and even more for me because I have twins and there is space in center area.