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Reading the Brian Blazer article about Whaler teak, he writes the following:

"To varnish teak, use the technique above with the extra step of removing the natural oil on the surface of the teak.Not doing so will not allow complete adhesion of the varnish. This is simply done by sanding and lightly scrubbing the surface with a solvent. Sand with 120 grit, scrub with the solvent, let dry and repeat. Then use the steps outlined above for varnishing."

What sort of solvent is he referring to?

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..........wipe teak with Acetone on a clean white rag. We seal our teak projects with west system epoxy. 105 resin & 207 special coatings hardner. 2 coats sand in between with 150 grit. then appy 6- 10 coats of varnish. sand in between with 320 grtit.


regards,
Mike

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It is a very old and traditional recommendation to use a solvent like acetone to remove the natural oils of teak before varnishing. However, this is something of an old wive's tale and an unnecessary step with the products we use today.

The wood should be sealed and then varnished. I use Daly's SeaFin Teak Oil as the sealer.

Wet sand the teak and allow the dust and oil mixture to fill the grain at the same time. Once this coat is dry, you varnish directly over it without any loss of adhesion.

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This is why I dont care to post one here....im sure others feel the same way. There's always someone who knows more or best or thinks they have more experience and underminds or takes away from the credibility of a professonal.

If you do not remove the oil before VARNISHING you WILL lose adhesion.

Regards,
Mike

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All right Warren;
More to the point;
What would be your your recommendations in order to "revive" and salvage faded and dated teak trimmings out of a venerable Classic Outrage 19?
The teak oil seems to be somehow lacking and the fiber is grey.
What would you do?

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Mike, thanks for the reminder of cleaning with acetone before the first seal coat.
I remember with all fiberglass work, that clean, clean, clean, is the only way. but sometimes in the process, forget the same about sanded wood.
Thanks!

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Serge,
you need to sand off the grey before you apply anything to the wood.

Mike,
I am sorry you don't feel that two professionals can disagree on a process without undermining the credibility of either. I know that Tom has been refinishing wood for years although I believe the technique he describes was described and used by Rebecca Wittman co-owner of a yacht refinishing company, The Teak Twins. I suspect that that fully qualifies her as a professional, along with the two books she has published on the subject.

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Serg,
professionals can disagree on a process without undermining the credibilty of the other. If you need an example read my posts & replies to other posts. I try not imply that someones input is wrong.

Mike

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Mike -- I agree with that.

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Mike,

I was glad to show up just in time for you two professional wood re finishers to have managed to find common ground..;)
Well;
Actually;
I have acquired a rather solid but dated RPS teak back :(
And am ready to resurface it.
My interest in this good topic was a direct question but not necessarily a rhetorical one
I would have liked to post a photo,:(but that will perhaps be for later
All that is left for me to do it to thank Mike, Kamie and Tom for showing us how they respectively do it...

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....we're all good.:D

Mike

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Well;
I am glad that I happened to have a vested interest in this topic and that I could help..
There is plenty of room for diversed techniques and process to repairs;
To be shared around..
Some will be traditional and somehow tedious;
But then again;
There will always be the "New Improved Version"
That I must say;
Will be just as valid if not to say pragmatic.
Perhaps a need to share in more careful and considerate ways could be enjoyed by us all.

Most Positively Yours.

PS -If I may say so..;)

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I started using the technique Mike has outlined with West Systems epoxy several months because I had adhesion and setting problems with Epifanes varnish on Teak and other oily woods. When your talking about putting 8 coats of something on wood, another coat or 2 of sealer is really not much trouble at all. Knowing the sealer is epoxy doesn't hurt either.

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I wanted to reiterate what Mike has outlined. Take it down to bare wood, acetone to remove as much teak oil as possible, then start w/the West System epoxy. One subtle variation is that on the 1st 2 coats of epoxy I actually use a small squeegie to push the epoxy down into the grain, which removes excess from the surface...no gloss at this point. Very light burnish after it dries and repeat....slight gloss. Then 1 or 2 more coats of epoxy, light sanding in between. The keys to prevent delamination of whatever you put on are: 1. Remove as much oil/moisture as possible (acetone) 2. Prevent moisture intrusion by totally encapsulating the wood (all sides) w/your epoxy. Let dry 24+ hours, light sand, and then start applying coats of Epiphanes High Gloss that DOES NOT require sanding in-between if applied w/i 72 hours. This way I can put on at least 1, and sometimes 2, coats per day and in no time have 4-6 coats. With the exception of the new teak rear seat we just installed (which received this process) it's been 3 years since we did the rest of the teak this way. Yes, I use covers to help preserve, but take a look at our personal page to see the results. If I really feel the need this year, I might do a light burnish (220 grit or wet sand) and then apply 2 coats of Epihpanes, but so far I don't see the need. The gentleman who taught me how to do this builds wooden canoes and kayaks as a hobby. Will do the same to all the mahogany on our 40 year old Carl Alberg Typhoon by Cape Dory Daysailor this year as well! It is worth the effort! Good Luck!