---

Would like some opinions and comments concerning a kicker (get home) motor for my 17 Montauk. Items such as hp, 2s or 4s, bracket or transom mount, etc. Would be primarily interested in use off shore in Gulf of Mexico and some in flats in skinny water. All info including personal experience would be appreciated.

Thanks

---

6 or 8 hp mounted directly on the transom.

NO bracket....

My prior 1978 Montauk
http://users.sisqtel.net/jkriz/Montau...ntauk.html

I also use the same 8hp on my Outrage 18'.
http://users.sisqtel.net/jkriz/Outrag...trage.html

You might also be interested in reading this article. The same basic kicker installation applies to the Montauk.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=48

---

Hi Moody, You can check out my personnel page. I had the same boat and put a kicker on it. I had a dual binnicle so I could control BOTH engines. To do this, the motor must be installed on the port side as the controls will hit the railing when turning the engine. If you plan on using the main engine to turn (locking the kicker in place) you can get away with it on the starboard side. I had a 9.9 Yamaha 4-stroke which I felt was more than i needed. I would recommend a 4-6 hp 4-stroke for the weight savings. A 4-stroke will allow you to use the main fuel supply (if you have a 4-stroke or oil injected main motor). If you mix in the main tank, go with a 2-stroke as you won't have to carry two tanks.

---

It might depend on what brand of engine you buy on whether or not if will work on the starboard side.

I have an Evinrude 2 stroke as per the article I linked to above.
I use straight gas in my main 63 gallon fuel tank as I never, ever, want to pre-mix again.
I use an OMC oiler for my kicker. Information for this is also available in the articles section.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=26

The kicker oiler can be seen in my links above. I used the oiler on both the Montauk and the Outrage. Again, straight fuel was in all of my fuel tanks.

My main motor of course has the OMC VRO oiling system.

Whatever side you put the kicker on, use a tie bar to connect the kicker to the main motor. This way both motors will steer from the helm.
The tie bar information is in the article above on installing a kicker motor.

---

I used the tie bar that Joe is referring to and I recommend it. It was from Panther marine, I recommend getting the Stainless steel one. Worked great, very easy to connect.

---

I'm running a nisssan 4 stroke 6 HP on the port side of my nauset and love it. Burns 1/2 gal per hour at WOT, which means I troll all day on less than a gallon..

Highly recommended

---

Earlier this year I tested several motors on my 17
My final test results were...
All tests were done with just me (300lbs) and 20 gals of fuel and my normal fishing gear (downriggers etc..) Motor mounted on the starboard side without a bracket.

5hp short shaft no good. (Honda)
55lb Thrust Electric motor max 2.5-MPH at WOT. (Minn-Kota)
3hp 2-stroke long shaft 3.5mph at WOT. (Johnson)
6hp 4-stroke long shaft 5.5mph at WOT. (Mercury)

The 6 or the 3 hp troll very nicely for trout. But for Salmon and Stripers the 6hp has a better speed range.
Neither the 6 or the 3 produced very much of a list to the boat. So the weight was not an issue.
While running WOT with either kicker the boat produced a very small wake and the bow did not seem to be plowing.

Good luck with your choice.

---

It'll take a heckuva long time to get home from off shore in the Gulf with a 3 hp "kicker", especially against the wind. I'd think you would be better off with a bigger motor that will still troll if "get home" is what you're thinking about. .02

---

Mounting a kicker directly to the transom may not be as easy as stated. On my 1998 Montauk, the rub rail continues on around the stern of the boat. With this in place, most kicker engines will not simply slip over the top of the stern. There is an extensive article about mounting one here:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/170Auxiliary.html
However, it does constitute cutting into your transom, and many are not ready to do this.
On earlier models, the rub rail does not wrap around the transom, and mounting a kicker is much easier. I'm not sure why this was an "improvement" to wrap the stern, but I'm not a real fan of it.

---

I have a 2004 Montauk 170. I am installing a Garelick(www.garelick.com) bracket on the starboard transon. I haven't decided on the engine yet. Probably going to use a 5 or 6 4 stroke Mercury. I'd prefer to use a 3 1/2 because they are 360 but I don't think they have enough power.

---

The 5 and 6hp are the same engine (aside from the carburetor) they weigh the same. Save a few bucks and go with the Nissan or Tohatsu labeled version. Same engine, minus the marketing. I had a 2007 6hp "Nissan" on my 29' J-Boat (high performance sloop), and it pushed 7000 pounds at 6knots.

---

While the price difference in Matt's area may be true for him, in my area a dealer nearby sells the merc 6hp long shaft for 1595 while another nearby dealer sells the Nissan 6hp long shaft for 1750. Cabelas sells the Nissan 6hp long shaft for 1479. West Marine sells the merc 6hp long shaft for 1799. Quite the range in pricing for essentially the same motor.

---

Try to stick with a 2 cyl engine as opposed to a 1 cyl. The 1 cyl engines have more vibration where as the 2 cyl are alot smoother. I have a 1990 Yamaha 4hp 1 cyl and that thing will rattle my fillings loose. I have a 1987 Evinrude 6hp 2 cyl and that thing is smooth.

---

Thanks to all for the replies and information. It was most helpful in making a decision. I will go with a 8 hp 4s Yamaha to match the main and for service locally and mount on the transom. This is my first experience with Whaler Central and has been most helpful. Will do what I can to support same.


W J Moody