Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Johnson 90
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/24/09 - 4:01 PM
#1
Model J90TSLEVUA
Serial G04312069
I just bought a boat today and the owner is unsure of the year.
1. Anyone know how I can "easily" look up the year
2. Does anyone have owners manuals for free or all of them are a fee. I tried Johnsons site
Problem why I am here. My boat will not accelerate unless I press the choke. Its like I have to press it or the motor will shut off when I gun it. I have to creep up to high speed and even when I creep up it will still turn off unless I periodicly tap the choke over and over. It runs fine when Idling..
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/24/09 - 4:15 PM
#2
There seems to be something wrong with the model number you show.
Are you sure the V is a V and not something else?
It should be one of the following letters.
INTRODUCES
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/24/09 - 4:20 PM
#3
Maybe the V shouldn't even be there at all?
If you take out the V.
J90TSLEUA
Then you would have a 1997 Johnson 90 hp motor.
Posted by theo on 03/24/09 - 4:59 PM
#4
flboy0638 wrote:
My boat will not accelerate unless I press the choke.
So maybe it's starving for fuel. First simple things are change the fuel filter, put fresh gas in it, and check the fuel hose and fuel line (under the cowling) for leaks or cracks or loose connections.
Posted by Mike on 03/24/09 - 5:11 PM
#5
Along with Theo's advise, you may want to inspect the primer bulb.
-make sure the arrow is pointed towards the engine
-make sure the bulb is in a vertical position, not laying on it's side
I don't know why the vertical vs horizontal makes a difference, but sometimes it does.
Posted by ioptfm on 03/24/09 - 5:13 PM
#6
flboy0638 wrote:
Model J90TSLEVUA
Serial G04312069
I just bought a boat today and the owner is unsure of the year.
Problem why I am here. My boat will not accelerate unless I press the choke. Its like I have to press it or the motor will shut off when I gun it. I have to creep up to high speed and even when I creep up it will still turn off unless I periodicly tap the choke over and over. It runs fine when Idling..
You don't tell us what kind of boat.............does it have a built in fuel tank.....dual tanks..........give us a little more info to work with
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/24/09 - 5:14 PM
#7
I just scooted home from the night shift and checked that number for model. Joe is right. No V in there so it is
j90tsleua
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/24/09 - 5:26 PM
#8
My boat (82 newport whaler) has a built in tank but I do not utulize it. I use a 6 gallon external carry around tank from a known good working boat. I have to clean the onboard gas tank..... I am going to try another tank for the sake of ruling out the external tank im using as problematic. Will start it up in the morning and test under a load. Load being driving in the river..
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/24/09 - 5:28 PM
#9
I read all of you guys posts. All very helpful. I will apply all of you guys recommendations tommorow and post back here. Thanks a million from a new proud owner of a classic 82 newport whaler.....
More to come........
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/24/09 - 6:04 PM
#10
Now we are getting closer.
You have a 1997 Johnson 90hp on the transom. Those are good motors and this model has System Check.
Now we need to know whether this Newport is a 17' or an 18' model as the
17' model does NOT have a built-in fuel tank.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=23
Only the Newport 18' built in 1983 has the built-in 63 gallon fuel tank.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=59
Maybe if you give us your HIN number we will know for sure what year it is.
So, what year?
Newport 17' ?
Newport 18' ?
Posted by ioptfm on 03/24/09 - 6:09 PM
#11
Also, when you are running the boat tomorrow, if the motor acts like it is choking or not getting enough fuel, then loosen the fuel cap.............at times the tank will build up pressure and the fuel will not flow properly.......
Posted by ioptfm on 03/24/09 - 6:12 PM
#12
Also, you mention that you need to clean the onboard fuel tank. Check to see if it is fiberglass as many are seeing a breakdown of these tanks with the ethonal mix that is really screwing up a lot of motors. I do not know what type tank that model has, but I'm sure Joe or some of the others will readily know.
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/24/09 - 6:24 PM
#13
Tom,
Read my post above yours.
No built-in fuel tanks on the Newport 17' models.
All 17' models have the same basic hull.
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/24/09 - 7:32 PM
#14
Im glad to hear that Johnson is a good motor. What does "system check" mean in regards to my model motor....
To the questions. 1982. I cant read the hull number (scratched up) ... 17' foot newport and yes the fuel tank is under the captains seat and not built in...
I took note to loosen the cap on my external Gas Tank. Please note I never used the gas tank under the captain seat nor did the previous owner. He always used 2 external 6 gallon plastic tanks with a bulb. Perhaps the engine isnt pulling fuel as well this way? Someone also mentioned to me to use a fuel cleaner because they said these 2 cycle engines get carb buildup. I have no Idea what kind to try though.
Edited by flboy0638 on 03/24/09 - 9:14 PM
Posted by moose on 03/25/09 - 6:18 AM
#15
Your description of how the engine runs tells me it is running very lean, or starving for fuel. That is not good. If you run it like that for long you can easily burn a piston, or worse. Cleaning the carbs might be a good place to start.
Mike
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/25/09 - 7:43 AM
#16
moose wrote:
Your description of how the engine runs tells me it is running very lean, or starving for fuel. That is not good. If you run it like that for long you can easily burn a piston, or worse. Cleaning the carbs might be a good place to start.
Mike
Can the carbs be cleaned first with some type of fuel insert cleaner? If so what type do you suggest?
Posted by moose on 03/25/09 - 9:08 AM
#17
I'm thinking that since you just bought the boat, if you are not much of a mechanic, and I don't know, it might be a good idea to spend a couple of hundred bucks to have a pro look at it and do the impellor and a good service to the engine to get you started on the right foot with your boat. Just a suggestion.
Mike
Posted by ioptfm on 03/25/09 - 9:33 AM
#18
moose wrote:
pro look at it and do the impellor and a good service to the engine Mike
Just a thought, but is it possible that the motor has gone into the low rpm safe mode due to over heating due to lack of water flow. I agree..spend a few hundred bucks and get it fixed properly instead of spending mega bucks down the road for major damage
Posted by DesertSport on 03/25/09 - 12:48 PM
#19
If the engine IS a 1982-NO "System Check." I suspect it is a 1992. Different animal.
As stated, have a
Pro check it out and recommend maintenance.
Either way, that is a GREAT engine. You'll be hard to kill it, if it is maintained.
Prop it to turn a minimum of 5500 at WOT and it will outlive you. Maintenance assured.B)
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/25/09 - 1:16 PM
#20
DesertSport,
We have already determined from above and from his model number, J90TSLEUA, he has a 1997 Johnson 90 with System Check. System Check was first introduced in the 1996 model OMC motors.
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/25/09 - 3:56 PM
#21
ioptfm wrote:
moose wrote:
pro look at it and do the impellor and a good service to the engine Mike
Just a thought, but is it possible that the motor has gone into the low rpm safe mode due to over heating due to lack of water flow. I agree..spend a few hundred bucks and get it fixed properly instead of spending mega bucks down the road for major damage
---------------------response------------------------------
The above safe mode due to overheating sounds scary. I hope that is not the problem.
Anyways, here is what I have done today. I went to marine shop and bought the recommended Johnson Carb Cleaner and Johnson Fuel additive. I put 1 ounce of the fuel additive in my Gas Tank and ran for an hour. Throughout the engine running I squirted a burst of carb cleaner in the air intake. Short bursts for a total of 6 or 7 squirts. Ill take it out tommorow and see if it will accelerate without me choking it. I hope it cleaned the carb enough for me to make it through this year....
P.S. The johnson dealer today described my lack of accelaration scenario today. He even knew that I have to choke it to go fast. Anyways, he said I need my carb rebuilt. The bad part is he wants 450 dollars to do 2 carbs..
More to come....
Posted by moose on 03/25/09 - 4:26 PM
#22
Shop around. A local independent with a good reputation might be able to cut that in half.
If it runs better, or well enough to use after the cleaners, keep an eye on the plugs. If they are burning lean you will see the light color and if you keep running it that way it will cause you grief and big bucks. If you get a manual you could possibly rebuild the carbs yourself. It isn't brain surgery. It only requires you to work in tight, frustrating places and follow the book.
Mike
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/25/09 - 6:17 PM
#23
I just got off youtube watching a few carb rebuild shows. I am also creating a document on "how to" rebuild a carb from all the help and info im reading. I am no mechanic but I am going to try this. The worse I can do is not be able to do it and have to take the carbs to someone and pay right?
I failed to give some important news earlier. When I was cleaning the carbs today and spraying carb cleaner in the 2 vent intakes to the carbs. The bottom vent caused the motor to increase RPMs as you would think. The top vent produced no reaction from the motor. Reason to worry?
Edited by flboy0638 on 03/25/09 - 7:12 PM
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/26/09 - 6:01 AM
#24
I just ran the boat early this morning. The fuel additive and carb cleaner did not help the problem. I still have to press choke to accelerate. I called good ole mikes marine in panecea florida and he is printing me up the carb breakdown since the "seloc" manual does not give me what i need. I also searched this site and found some good step by steps. if u guys do not mind i will post some pictures here if i run into problems. I plan to take pics and do an instructional for future newbies like myself. Im sure you guys can correct my step by steps if i misquote a procedure.... This can be my thank you to all of you that have helped me.......
more to come!!!!
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/27/09 - 5:19 PM
#25
First carb is soaking overnight in johnson / evinrude carb cleaner.... Will finish in the morning and do the other. Report coming soon.
Any things I need to inspect while the carbs are off?
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/27/09 - 5:38 PM
#26
How did the carbs look when you took them apart?
How was the gasket between the two body halves?
The reason I ask is the old gaskets used to be black and they disintegrated into pieces. OMC then changed to brown gaskets for the newer fuel. Not sure what year they did this but I remember I had to change my black gaskets out for the new browns ones.
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/28/09 - 4:43 PM
#27
Joe Kriz wrote:
How did the carbs look when you took them apart?
How was the gasket between the two body halves?
The gaskets were tanish grey/brown
I saw clogged high speed jets. Both
I got both carbs back on and it screams and reacts well. I then towed it to the lake for a drive and i think I must have messed up the throttle cables cause i floored it and it just goes a lil over idle. I can walk back and take the cover off and it screams like it did at the house when I manaually gas the throttle body. I am taking a break cause i was in the north florida rain for 2 hours. Can ya tell im motivated? hahaha We will see what I did to the remote / cables / throttle in a few....
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/28/09 - 5:06 PM
#28
ok, cant believe i missed this. i forgot to put this back on to the throttle. Its what an arm hits when you gas it and pushes the throttle for more gas.
ok, it wouldnt let me attach the pic but its the lil arm that is part 10 on the carb breakdown printout
Edited by flboy0638 on 03/28/09 - 5:10 PM
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/28/09 - 5:15 PM
#29
Thank you all and thanks for this site. Im by far no mechanic but I think anyone can save 450 dollars and rebuild thier carbs themselves.
Posted by moose on 03/28/09 - 6:11 PM
#30
I'm not sure from the post that you got it going correctly. You do sound excited, so I guess you did. Congrats on a good job.
Mike
Posted by ioptfm on 03/28/09 - 6:49 PM
#31
flboy0638 wrote:
Thank you all and thanks for this site. Im by far no mechanic but I think anyone can save 450 dollars and rebuild thier carbs themselves.
Well, don't keep us in suspense! is it working? :o
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/28/09 - 7:07 PM
#32
Yes its working now. I went to the lake without installing the piece that screws into the throttle. It has an arm on it. the arm hits a metal bar when you give it gas. I installed the piece and hooked up the water house and it responds great now. That little piece i forgot screws in on the top carb throttle.
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/29/09 - 2:36 PM
#33
Just got in from the Wakulla River. Gorgeous day! Ran the boat hard again. It will really go now. Yeeee haw!:)
Posted by ioptfm on 03/29/09 - 3:22 PM
#34
Don't you just love it when a plan comes together! :)
Posted by flboy0638 on 03/29/09 - 7:20 PM
#35
I sure do... Just wish I would have had time to fish today...