Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: 3/4" PVC Drain tubes/5200

Posted by MW on 02/16/09 - 5:25 AM
#1

I'm going to measure and cut the 3/4" PVC sched. 80 drain tube today. Should I go with the 5200 or use "Marine Tex" ? I'm pretty sure that it's "wet" in there, any input is appreciated.

Posted by jquigley on 02/16/09 - 6:10 AM
#2

5200

Posted by jquigley on 02/17/09 - 7:10 AM
#3

WELL? We're waiting......

(In a Judge Shmails from Caddyshack tone)

did it work?

-John

Posted by MW on 02/18/09 - 1:56 AM
#4

I have then cut and measured, I'm gonna do them all this weekend.

Judge Shmails: "Don't you people have homes" !

Posted by MW on 02/22/09 - 9:34 AM
#5

I got the rotted brass tube out, I have a piece of 3/4" sched. 40 pvc ready to go. The 3/4 pvc fit's very tight, do I tap it in with a rubber mallet ? Should I sand it down, or try another type of pvc ? also the drain plug does not fit in the pvc.
please send help ...---...
thank's

Posted by Binkie on 02/22/09 - 11:56 AM
#6

Matt, your using the wrong PVC. Use 3/4" sched. 120 (thinwall) PVC. it will fit the whole nicely, and when coated with 5200 will give you a waterproof seal. Also the plug will fit perfectly. I use a plug with the little bronze T-handle that you screw to expand the rubber plug when its twisted in.

Posted by MW on 02/22/09 - 2:04 PM
#7

Thank's Bink,

120 got it, The plug I have is the screw type, I have a new tube of 4200, there's also wet foam where the rotted Brass tube was inside the hull. I don't care so much about the wet foam but, I need the adhesive to properly "cure", I've had the boat tilted back "downward" toward the stern since it came to dry dock (driveway).

Posted by Phil T on 02/22/09 - 3:13 PM
#8

Note that 4200 uses moisture to cure. Remember it will take a while, as long as a week, to cure unless you are using the "fast cure" type.

Posted by MW on 02/22/09 - 7:33 PM
#9

Thank's Phil,

Yes, it say's "3M 4200 Fast Cure", even a week's time is fine to cure, I'm tryin to get an early jump on the season as there are always delay's for me, I'm stayin "ON IT" ! I don't wanna miss out on those cool "Whaler" beach party's and surf music !

Posted by Josey Whaler on 02/23/09 - 3:05 AM
#10

Schedule 120 is NOT thin wall PVC. In fact, it is generally the thickest wall PVC that is available, although you won't find it at the Home Depot, etc. Usually only in plumbing supply houses, and sometimes special order. In order from thinest to thickest:

Schedule 40, Schedule 80 (+36%), Schedule 120 (+50%).

Posted by MW on 02/23/09 - 3:24 AM
#11

I guess I better start sanding the sched. 40 (21mm) elec. conduit. Every project with me is an "ordeal", no matter how simple it is. "I'm NOT givin up" and "W/C",;) always get's me through.
Thank's

Posted by Binkie on 02/23/09 - 4:11 AM
#12

I always thought that 120 was the thinwall tubing. The piece I have laying around that I used for my drain tube doesn't have any schedule printed on it. Anyway the type of PVC that you need is generally used for underground sprinkler tubing, and is not made to hold a lot of water pressure. It is rigid white, tubing, like all PVC, not the black plastic type. It is very inexpensive, and is available at Home centers.

Posted by MWH on 02/23/09 - 4:17 AM
#13

Not sure 4200 or 5200 sticks well to PVC. I suggest you dry out that hole, vacuum, and use drop light for a few days. Get it dry. Then use the Whaler nylon thread type with 5200. I had excellent results.

Posted by drandlett on 02/23/09 - 4:34 AM
#14

Mike,

Whaler nylon thread type? Is this a new style from Boston Whaler, available from dealers?

Sounds interesting.

Thanks.

Posted by MW on 02/23/09 - 9:19 AM
#15

The drain hole seems totally "DRY" today, a GOOD THING, as I thought I had a lot of water in the hull. Another "Boater" at work said that the Marine store sells a Generic "Bolt in" plastic drain tube for $5 that would work.

Posted by jquigley on 02/23/09 - 9:41 AM
#16

MW wrote:
I guess I better start sanding the sched. 40 (21mm) elec. conduit. Every project with me is an "ordeal", no matter how simple it is. "I'm NOT givin up" and "W/C",;) always get's me through.
Thank's


Attaboy. Good attitude. Way to go.

(Pats the head) "How 'bout a Fresca?"

--Schmails

Posted by Derwd24 on 02/23/09 - 10:07 AM
#17

Matt, take a look at this bronze screw in, it'd be my choice for what you're considering, and removable too if you ever need to...

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/...nze%2C+NPS

Edited by Derwd24 on 02/23/09 - 10:09 AM

Posted by Phil T on 02/23/09 - 10:28 AM
#18

Dave - Those are nice but a bit pricey for the length you need. I presume they work if the hole is a straight shot without any angle. Might be an issue given the transom is not 90 degrees to the hole.

Dana - Whaler has been using plastic thru-hulls for a number of years. Yes, they are available via the dealer.

Posted by MW on 02/24/09 - 3:29 PM
#19

I was looking at the rotted removed drain tube today at work, I thought it looked a tad "dark", so I threw the wire wheel "on" and brushed a small area, I was like, "HUH" ? I tossed the piece to a co-worker and asked "Is this Brass" ? He instantly said "No, it's a piece of 3/4" copper pipe used for "heating". Somebody did a "Shoddy" repair, "Thank's" previous owner !

Edited by MW on 02/24/09 - 3:30 PM

Posted by DesertSport on 03/01/09 - 12:37 PM
#20

I used "thinwall" and 5200 to secure the cut down collars to the hull. I used the appropriate PVC glue to attach the cut down collars to the tube(s).

I replaced ALL of them, in my boat, with PVC.