Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Varnishing update
Posted by CES on 01/13/09 - 10:50 AM
#2
Looks great. Where did you purchase your varnish? Did you use a brush or did you spray it? I am getting ready to rebuild my console and am not sure what to use to coat it with.
Posted by ioptfm on 01/13/09 - 12:22 PM
#4
Really looking great! Don't be tempted to take a short cut and rush the final few coats. :)
Posted by KeyRat on 01/13/09 - 12:37 PM
#5
ioptfm wrote:
Really looking great! Don't be tempted to take a short cut and rush the final few coats. :)
It's tempting to call it done but I am going to stick to my plan and finish off the final coats. If the wood was the only thing holding me up it would be more tempting, but I have a laundry list of stuff before it's ready to be christened.
The 80F degree weather here in San Diego is getting me motivated to finish this project and get out on the water!
Posted by HawkandDove on 01/14/09 - 1:22 AM
#6
Good job, looks great. Thanks for the link to the book i got a lot of varnishing heading my way real soon!!
Posted by Binkie on 01/14/09 - 2:44 AM
#7
If you cut a piece of plywood the size of the piece you are varnishing, and drive a 2" drywall screw through the plywood near each corner, you can varnish one side of the piece (flat side only) and then flip the board on the screw points and then varnish the other side and the edges. Make sure you varnish the edges with a dryish brush. It will cut your time in half, Strain the varnish for each coat and varnish in a clean environment. Also wipe the board with thinner after sanding, and wipe it down again with a tack cloth immediately before varnishing. Let the pieces dry 24 hours before sanding. When sanding you only need to scuff sand to get any bumps off the piece. I use 220 paper and an orbital sander. Don`t sand where you varnish. I sand outside. Thin the first coat about 15 percent for penetration. Use a good quality white bristle brush. Have plenty of good light where you varnish. Varnish using full but not heavy coats. After varnishing each side look at it from an extreme angle to spot any holidays(places where you missed)
Don`t make a fun job into hard work. You don`t need no stinkin book.;)
Posted by digitalvet on 01/14/09 - 3:42 AM
#8
hey guys are your varnishing recommendations for 'new' construction or can they be used for old whaler wood?
** I'm starting the stripping of console and seats of 69 sakonnet...the console is in bad shape but the seating is really good except for the bottom/leg areas
Is it necessary to strip/sand the entire captains seat or just the pitted bad areas and then feather it in? and will the varnish your talking about work over this 40 year old stuff?
john
Osceola, PA
Posted by Binkie on 01/14/09 - 5:46 AM
#9
If your old wood has black stains (water penetrating under the varnish) you need to remove all of the old finish with paint remover, and bleach out the stains with oxalic
acid.http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oxa...leach.html, and then start varnishing. If your old varnish is in decent shape just sand and varnish. If it is worn off or thin in spots its best to remove it all, and then varnish. You can`t blend in varnish.
To remove, just brush on paste type paint remover, and blast it off with a pressure washer after waiting 1/2 hour. If its not all off do it again. Pressure washing will not hurt the dense grain of mahogany.. If polyurethane varnish has been used it may take more work, and get a remover suitable for polyurethane varnish.
rich