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Hi Everyone,

I'm new here and a new whaler owner. I purchased a 2002 Dauntless 160. I really want to put a trolling motor on it and have a dilemna because each party I speak to gives me a different answer. I want to buy a Minn Kota.... but do I get the 12v 55# thrust? Is that enough for my boat? Or do I get a 24v 70# thrust. The price between doing the two is that much different so I initially thought do the 70# and get the extra power, but then there is the issue of batteries. I recently had a dead battery while out enjoying the day and had to be towed back, so I installed a 2nd cranking battery under the console with a switch. I could probably get one battery under there for the 12v, but if I went 24, I would have to put one or both under the rear seats near the stern, and I'm concerned about the extra weight near the back.

What are the opinions of other whaler owners out there, I know I can't be the only one who wants to do this. I spoke to BW Customer Service and they told me a 55# would be more than enough, but that I need 54" shaft, which of course they don't make the riptide in a 54" shaft, so I would have to take it to a service center and pay $150 for a new shaft. Minn Kota also agrees 55# is enough. The local Whaler dealer says 55# "should" be enough but he's concerned about the 48" shaft, although he said it "should" work. Another boat mechanic that I've used before suggested the 70#, stating any wind or current and the 55# wouldn't be enough... He actually recommended a dual purpose battery under the console tied into my other battery system... But I've been told to keep them completely separate. My buddy has a 19 foot boat and he is suggesting the 70#

Does anyone have a 16 foot whaler with the troller that can give me your opinion?

I really appreciate your help.

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I would look at the Motorguide Saltwater wireless 55 pound thrust, 54 " shaft unit. It seems to meet your requirements and is priced lower than a similar sized Minn-Kota. The Motorguide also includes the removable mount with the unit. I have seen them on 18 to 19 foot long bay boats, but no real experience on a Whalet.

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Thanks, I was looking at the Motorguide, I have no experience with it, so I didn't know how it would perform, I am going to goto BassPro and look at it. I didn't see a composite quick release mount like the minn kota has, which I like... I don't really want to have a piece of aluminum on the bow. I know that sounds like a silly reason, but ultimately the boat is a multi use, and I want to be careful what I put on the bow for when I have family on the boat.

Also, is 55# sufficient? I am getting such a variable response on whether it is enough of not.

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Vett , are you fishing fresh or saltwater? East or west coast? What kind of fishing are you most likely going to do?

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I live in Orlando, FL, we will do a lot of Lake fishing, but I want to be sure that I can use the motor in the intercoastal as well... I don't know how much fishing we will do out there, but I don't want to be limited as well.

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If you are a fishing nut or think you may be one in the future I would go with the 70#.Also I would grab the co-pilot that you can place on your wrist as well. I am like you I like the Minn-Kota quick release mount . BG

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I dont know that I am a fishing nut, but I want to be able to fish and enjoy it. I am more concerned about if the boat would handle well with two batteries under the rear seats, I'm adding like another 100lbs by doing that... The cost difference between doing the 55# vs the 70# is minimal, so its not even the money, its more about is the 70# necessary and if so is it a big deal to add two batteries under the seats. Then if I do, maybe I should try and get one under the console and one under a seat to help spread out the 100lbs.

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One other question. As far as wiring, I have two cranking batteries right now, my mechanic suggested taking one of them out and wiring it with a dual purpose battery and using those two batteries for the trolling and starting. I've been told that this isn't a good idea, and I should keep the trolling and starting completely separate. How do you have yours wired?

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Vett. I have three batteries under my console. One starting and two for the 24v trolling motor. Storage is in the cooler in front of the console. I put a quick disconect on my trolling motor and used a set of jumper cables to run the wire from the console to the quick disconect. THe jumper cables have the clamps clipped off of each end and battery post rings on one end and the quick connect on the other. With the disconect you can store it when not in use. BG

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Hi so what is the purpose of the quick disconnect? Sorry I guess I am confused. I have the trolling package on my boat, so there is a wire from the bow of the boat back to the console. I ws going to install a breaker and then attach it to the battery(s). were you able to get all three batteries on the floor indention in the console?

Sorry for the confusion

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Forget the jumper cables . That should be easy enough , I am not familiar with your console however it has to be bigger than the one I have . I do have all three in the console. I will take a pic as soon as I pick my boat up from the shop(impeller repair). BG

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Thanks I look forward to it! I'm starting to think that maybe I should just leave my current system for starting totally in place, and then put one deep cycle under the console and then put the last one under the aft starboard seat to run the trolling motor.

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This trolling motor thread interests me because I am about to put one on my 13 Sport.

I keep going back and forth about whether to go transom or bow mount for one thing. I will fish from the bow for Bass but sit at the helm trolling for Stripers or Walleye. The 13 is so short that I almost think a transom mount with a long handle would do the job. I also hate to cut up the bow and leave a mount bracket there. I agree with you guys that the plastic mount is far better than the aluminum one when the motor is removed.

Whalers are heavy, but it really doesn't seem to me that you should need the larger motor on this boat.

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burtim, if you go with the bow mount you have greater control in a wind. I mounted a quick mount on the 15 so I can switch the trolling motor between the two boats

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Thanks for the pic Barry, do you ahve one of the batteries and wiring? I'd like to see how you got the three down there... I think I am going to do three... 1 crank batt on the switch #1, and the other two for the 24v troller... then if I need the 2 deep cycles in an emergency I can just flip the switch to start my gas motor.... I think I can also put it to All while running and it will charge all three at the same time.

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It seems like the consensus of recommendations is to go with a 24 volt system. This is overkill on this boat, and if it requires putting batteries aft, the weight will, most likely, have a negative impact on this hulls performance. I say this based on previous threads asserting that this hull needs trim tabs to perform correctly.

If I was faced with this same situation, I would use the Motorguide SW 55 pound, 54" shaft. It would require a single deep cycle battery which it sounds like the boats is already wired for. I would also run my electronics off this battery, and then carry one starting battery that would have less of a draw coming off it. That should help resolve the weight issue, the space issue and I would carry a jump pack if I was concerned about the starting battery.

Also please note the Motorguide comes with the handheld controller, a clip for the belt (or where ever) and a white plastic cover for the removable mount when the troling motor is off the boat.

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Hey Dave, thanks for the opinion. I was thinking just doing the three batteries beneath the console... that way I would avoid the battery aft. I think that would help. I have the dilemna between the 55# and 70#, and there are opinions on both sides as to which is best. I am going to go look at the Motorguide this weekend. But can you tell me why you think the 24volt is overkill? As for the trim tabs, I will do a search about that, I've had no problems without trims.

The boat is already wired, but when talking to BW they said I could do either 24 or 12 with the wiring.

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The 55 pound thrust is the better choice for a 16' boat. If you are using the trolling motor under any of the following conditions you will see some advantages to having a 24 volt system. 1. positioning the boat in a strong current or a tidal rip, 2. tournament fishing (8 hours a day), 3. fishing several days in a row with no access to recharge the batteries, 4. fishing in a high wind or a nasty chop, or 5. as a back-up for pulling tots in a tube. .

In any of the above conditions more thrust is better.

If your use will be as a positioning motor in more serene water conditions, the 55 pound thrust is more than adequate.

Also focus on a digital motor as the battery life is much longer, and should get a longer warranty.

I would also do everything possible to limit the weight in the boat. It will just perform better.

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Vett, here is your pic. wall to wall batteries. BG

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Thanks.... definitely wall to wall.. I'm going to go measure the battery boxes and see if they will fit across like that.

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Hi Dave, thanks for the explanation. So I agree with you on the 55#, here's the thing, normally we fish in the fairly serene lakes of central Florida. If it starts to get windy, the fishing gets bad and we leave... so its not critical to have more thrust, but then I am concerned about the one time we are out there and the bite is on and we don't want to leave. Or maybe we fish the intercoastal which will have more current and tidal rip. Finally, the cost difference between the 12 and the 24 is minimal... 200 bucks or so... a little less if I went with a motor guide as I dont have to replace the shaft.

Using the three battery approach described above, I'd only be adding one more battery and it would be under the console and not the aft seat as I originally pictured, So the boat performs pretty well today, so realistically I am not sure how much worse it could be with another battery under the console.

So, I've been doing alot of floundering between the 55# and the 70# and these discussions are exactly why I came to this forum and asked the question. I really appreciate all of the opinions.

While 70# is probably a little overkill for my 16 footer, and I think Minn Kota and BW agree, I'm finding more people that do the 70# for the situations you mentioned, and the cost difference is fairly negligible. I'm just thinking with the cost difference, and now that I have a way to only add one battery, totaling 3 batteries and I am already running two, that maybe the 70# is the way to go. Knowing that I am only adding one battery and the cost, do you still think 55# is the right decision?

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I don't know how much that Dauntless weighs, but I have a 55 lb on my 16' that weighs right at 1,300 lbs w/engine. It moves me around ok in good conditions, but more would be better. Mine is a 12v. In a wind or current mine is not enough.
Mike

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1500 LBS empty no engine.

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vette, you have asked for my opinion on a decision that is yours to make. You have received several viewpoints (opinions) on which trolling motor might work best on your Dauntless.

I stand by my previous recomendations for your boat, however, others have different recommendations. Go and look at each product, ask the salesperson for reference material that backs them up for any recommendation they give you.

Take the body of knowledge that you accumulate and make a simple balance sheet of plus and minus items. See if this paints a picture such that you become comfortable making an informed decision so you will be content with your choice after it is put into use. Good luck.

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Yep totally agree and that is exactly what i am doing... I wish there was a cut and dry answer. I guess what I don't understand is that you indicated the 55# is your opinion, but then right after you gave a bunch of reasons to go with the 70#, so is your reasoning for the 55# solely based on the extra battery that I would be carrying? That's why I was saying, it would only be one battery vs the original two that I was thinking if I went with a 70#.

Thanks again.

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http://www.ohiogamefishing.com/community/showthread.php?t=103468&highlight=donkey

Get the Terrova autopilot.The above link will explain and show one in action on Lake Erie in 2-4 foot waves.Best money I ever put into my boat.Handsfree trolling it is.Can be run alone or in conjunction with kicker or main motor.Tracks straight as an arrow and has eyes like a snake.

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Very nice, thanks for the link to the thread.

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Please note that I listed 5 possible scenarios. These are potential reasons for you to justify installing a larger trolling motor than you really need.

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Hey Folks, so I made a decision and now I need more help. I decided to go with the Minn Kota SP, but when installing it we are having a problem. I am using the composite quick release bracket and when we go to mount the bracket on the bow, I either have to mount it right next to where there nav light is but paralell to the side of the boat, meaning forward to after direction and not angled down the bow. That means when stowed the trolling motor is IN my boat... If I try to mount it at and angle, I can barely get that fourth bolt near the edge into the boat and a part of the corner of the base of the bracket (the piece that bolts to the bow) actually hangs off a little. I am not happy at all with that hanging off, but if I don't do it, it seems that the trolling motor won't clear the rub rail on the boat.

Has anyone run into this problem? What did you do? I want it to look perfect and am apprehensive to do it at all if its not going to look right.

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I ran into something similar.I mounted the trolling motor on a 3/4 Starboard subplate.This allowed me to have a wider range of mounting options as I could now choose where I wanted to drill holes.Perhaps this photo can help.

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vettenorlando,

I have a relative with a 200? 18' Daughtless Center console. They have a 24V 80lb thrust motorguide trolling motor mounted on the bow . It follows the edge of the hull. BW must have put wood up there in order to mount trolling motors. What makes me think this also is that you mentioned something about a trolling motor package. Maybe talk to your local BW dealer and see how they mount trolling motors on hulls like yours. With the weight of your hull I would go 24 Volt system. That is what I had on my 1987 montauk. That was plenty of thrust for that hull. Remeber everything is a trade off. I don't think many BW's were designed to accomadate trolling motors and extra batteries. Also I found this picture on the internet. Is this the style of boat you have ? Do you have railings ?




Todd

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Thanks everyone, we actually mounted the block on the port bow.... After talking to Boston Whaler, Minn Kota and the local dealer, they all agreed that the block would hang off the edge by about an inch. I was told to just let that hold go unscrewed and then put the fourth screw in themiddle of the block to make up for the missing one that hangs off the edge. It looks a little strange but it works. BTW yes there reinforcement on the left bow, phenoholic board I think they called it. I was originally going to put the 70# SP Riptide on it, but there was some difficulty getting it in stock and we wound up getting the 80# ST, with the auto pilot. We are still installing it but I will take pictures if anyone is interested. I wound up putting the two 27 group 12 volt deep cycles under the center console in boxes, along with the three bank charger. Then I moved the cranking battery to the back of the boat on the center line of the boat right where the water/gas separator is at. We moved that over a few inches to make more room for the battery. Since I was losing my second cranking battery, we decided to still use the switch I had to allow me to crank off the deep cycle in the case of an emergency.

I have not taken the boat out yet but hope to do so next weekend. But with the weight near the center fo the boat, I don't expect a huge change in handling. If there is a big difference, I will consider putting a set of smart tabs on the boat... I have been wanting to do that anyhow.

Thanks for the great discussion.

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Todd I just noticed your picture... The problem with mounting the motor that was is that the motor when stowed really comes into the boat alot, and I wanted to have it so I could still maneuver around the deck... I guess it just depends on your priority, but with the 16 foot it really took up a lot of space.

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I had the same concerns trying to decide what to use on my 150 Sport, finally went with an 82# thrust Motorguide pts 24v. I installed a battery condition panel on the dash and installed two large deep cycle batteries with one used to start the engine in addition to running the trolling motor. Never had an
issue with starting the main engine either, you can check on the battery status and most new electronics has the voltage displayed on the screen to keep track of it. This worked fine for three years.

Last spring with higher loads such as bait tank dual 7" screens bilge pump radios ect I added a
separate starting battery. I already had a 3 bank 30 amp charger so this will reduce the worrying about battery state of charge.

BTW, Yandina makes a 24v trollbridge unit that enables you to charge the 24v batteries with your single 12v outboard. I have heard positive comments on it and think you can keep your batteries at a
higher charge level if you use it. This maintains the starting battery first and then will switch over to charge the trolling batteries. These Yandina combiners are available for two or three battery systems.

Both Motorguide and Minnkota (sp) have both been around for ages, both are very good trolling motors and you should be better off with the higher output motor. I purchased the Motorguide pts because I liked having the ability to automatically follow the shore line without my constantly having to steer it. In most cases it works very well, in some rare cases it gets confused though and I have to take over and reset it. When fishing on the bow it is very handy to be able to read the depth on the trolling motor too. This keeps me from damaging the trolling motor as well as the boat.

Good luck with your setup. I would think the Minnkota will work great.



Steve

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Guys, please include links to any pictures you can. I'm getting ready to mount a motor too.

Thanks

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What battery gauge panel did you install? Do you have a picture of it? My minn kota has one directly on the unit... but i've seen some of the chargers that show each battery individual status, but they were pretty expensive... I wouldn't mind having something on the console that gave me the status of all three... My console has one gauge for the cranking battery but that is it.