Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by toms 68 classic on 09/21/08 - 11:53 AM

Anyone know who i might contact to replace my brass drain tubes on my 68 Sakonnet. I live in Fort Lauderdale and although i am fairly handy, it's one project that i am a bit unsure of doing myself. Thanks.

Posted by Joe Kriz on 09/21/08 - 12:13 PM

Take a look at this article. It isn't that difficult to do.

http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=42

Posted by John Fyke on 09/21/08 - 12:57 PM

Another option is pvc pipe. Many members like this idea including myself.

Posted by ioptfm on 09/21/08 - 6:36 PM

I asked this in another thread, but I'd like your advice also. What is the simplest and cleanest way of removing the old brass tube and then how do you finish off the ends of the PVC as you cannot flare them?

Posted by John Fyke on 09/22/08 - 6:16 AM

Here are some pics. I can't find them all. I don't use 3M 5200 though i epoxy them in.

[IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e283/Protek9543/DSC00038.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e283/Protek9543/DSC00039.jpg[/IMG]

Edited by Joe Kriz on 09/22/08 - 11:44 AM

Posted by John Fyke on 09/22/08 - 6:26 AM

Tom, i take a saw zaw and cut a slit through the tube. If you carefully cut a slit on the lip you can bend the lip around and take a pair of pliers and twist the tube right out.

Posted by wrangler on 09/22/08 - 6:36 AM

I purchased the plastic ones from a whaler dealer using these part numbers for 1979 17' montauk.

1073071 tube
1042084 nut

3m 5200 to seal it up.

Posted by kamie on 09/22/08 - 6:45 AM

Tom,

The fastest way to take out the brass is with a flat screwdriver and a hammer. Tap around the edge so you collapse the tube in on itself than use the screwdriver to push it out of the hole. There is no need for power tools for this job, brass is really soft which is why it conforms to the hull and why you can flare it around for a tight seal.

As for doing it yourself, it only takes practice. Go to McMaster Carr and purchase the tube and O rings. You can purchase the flare dies thru a whaler dealer, follow the instructions, really not that hard.

Posted by sraab928 on 09/22/08 - 6:19 PM

#12

protek9543 wrote:
As you may have noticed, I pvc the holes for the motor mounts too.

Thats a great idea John, I never though of that - I PVC's all my drains - didnt even think about the motor mounts but makes sense as that is another place for water to get in.

Posted by Derwd24 on 09/22/08 - 8:20 PM

#13

That is a great idea and would also help with compression/dimpling issues on older/moist transoms when tightening down the engine mounting bolts.

Posted by sraab928 on 09/23/08 - 4:20 AM

#14

John, what size PVC did you use for the engine holes? I'm sure I could do some measuring and figure it out but figure couldn't hurt to ask. Think I am going to do it tomorrow - I took one motor off yesterday -planning on getting the other off today. I was going to seal the holes to prevent water from going in but I like your idea - keeps the holes and keeps water out during my resto.

Posted by John Fyke on 09/23/08 - 4:26 AM

#15

sraab928 wrote:
John, what size PVC did you use for the engine holes? I'm sure I could do some measuring and figure it out but figure couldn't hurt to ask. Think I am going to do it tomorrow - I took one motor off yesterday -planning on getting the other off today. I was going to seal the holes to prevent water from going in but I like your idea - keeps the holes and keeps water out during my resto.

1/2" but there will be a little slop. I don't think it will hurt a thing.