---

Well, went out again today and had a steller trip offshore (called for blue northern and texas whaler in case they were in the neighborhood) but basically cruised out to the first set of oil rigs about 10 miles offshore with no problems, then came back in, hauled butt on the intercostal, then into the canals. Sure enough, was crusin along, and my overtemp alarm came back on. Now i just had both my water pump and thermostate replaced while doing my first servicing to the motor, so i'm a little bit of a loss why its overheating. The pump is pushing plenty of water through, and my new water pressure guage is giving me 7to 8 PSI at about 7-8 hundred RPM's so not sure what the issue is. Once i throttle back from barely above idle , the alarm goes off, and i finished my trip no problems. Motor is still under warantee, but its irritating to have any alarms go off anytime when everything seems to be right, and serviced to a T.

more to come i'm sure :@

Duf B)

---

duf,

Just to get things straight....
Overtemp alarm?
Is this the "HOT" warning on your gauge?
Just trying to make sure as the gauges I know of show "HOT"......
Your gauges may be a little different than I have seen....

---

Duf, this probably isn't the same thing that is happening on yours, but I will pass it on anyway. On several occassions I have hit a large wake and a pretty good bounce and my alarms has gone off. The only way I could stop it was to turn the motor off and then restart.

---

Duf, the exact same thing happened to our guide's new 200 ETEC 2 weekends ago in Port O'Connor. The alarm would sound and he would drop it to idle for about 5 seconds, then the alarm would cease and he would accelerate again with no problems. Don't know if it was really overheating or the alarm is getting a false reading somehow but it is definitely irritating. The motor is new so he has yet to take it in for a check up. He said that never happened on his ETEC 250. Keep us posted and I will do the same if I hear any news from him. Paul

---

Duf,

Have you had the latest updates installed? I believe this was a problem on some of the large block Etec due to the software temp threshold for the alarm being set too low. If I remember correctly one of the updates raised the threshold number enough to prevent false overheat alarms from triggering.

---

Joe, the guage actually says ovtemp alarm, or something like that and of course the warning alarm goes off. Nothing says hot.
No, wasn't jumping any wakes or anything, was actually in a no wake zone cruisin at about 7-9 hundred RPM's.
My thought is the same on possibly being set to low. I've had it go off about 5 times now, and each time after dropping to an idle where your actually getting less pressure and water through the motor, the warning drops off and i can push back up to whatever speed i want with no immediate repeats, and sometimes nothing again for hours.

I'll be calling my mechanic first thing tues, and i'm guessing taking the boat in by the end of the week. Good news is all the other goodies i put on my boat including my new lowrance 27C works like a charm. My swim plateform is looking good too!!

Duf B)

---

I feel your pain. Maybe the weather ?

---

I don't know Jim, but it sure is irritating....... But the good news is, i had a good time going out with John (Texas Whaler) and meeting up with Rob (Blue Northern) for cocktails after our fishing trip today on his 25!!

Duf B)

---

Duf,

I'd be interested to get your take on the 25 compared to the 22' we have. I've only seen the 25's on trailer, never been on one in the water. Did you feel like it was noticably more boat, or fairly equivalent to the 22's?

---

I am not sure how Duf feels about the 25, but....

My brother in law has a 25 Outrage with a 275 Merc. It is definately more boat. Brawny may be a good way to describe them.

With both of us headed home in a mean chop, me in my 22, and him in his 25, he can walk away from me.

Doug

---

Texas Whalers boat is a fine rig. We went about 30 miles offshore and were probably feeling some of Gustov's wave action as it was initially pretty knarley as we made our way out to a depth of about 140 ft. We both commented on how the boat shrunk, but it was a very comfortable boat considering the waves we were in, and i only got sprayed once, and that was because of the wind action. On the way back in, the waves dropped some and we were able to cruise in at 20 MPH or so.
All in all, i would say they are very similar, with the exception being the obvious, bigger is better in a anykind of wave action! It is amazing how the extra 3 feet makes quite a difference in size.

Duf B)

---

Good to know, thanks for the input. Got caught in some unexpected 4-5' with kids aboard and it got me thinking about the 25'.

Good luck at the dealer Duf, hopefully it's a simple s/w upgrade.

---

Already talked to the dealer, and he's going to jump right on it while i wait as soon as i can get the boat to him, which will probably not be until Friday.

If you unexpectedly got into some 4-5 footers in the 25, you wouldn't give a care!

Oh, and i didn't mention that Texas Whalers twin Yammy 150 setup is VERY nice for a 25!

Duf B)

---

Duf,

Thanks for the compliments on my 25'.

Hope your engine problem can be resolved. If they are having trouble sorting it out....ask about a trade on a pair of 115's for your 22'. Offshore, that 115 kicker is nice.

---

duf,

Has your engine had all the updates?
I would give your serial number to your local Evinrude dealer and ask them to look it up.

---

Joe, it was the first thing i did when i purchased Raggedy Ann, so i'm thinking it may not be a software issue (also the fact i've used it over a year without any alarms) and i did tons of cruisin in the canals with no high idling issues. However it could be problems with the sensor itself.

Duf

---

duf,

You still might check with your dealer again.
Sometimes the owner is NOT notified of new updates... This happens...

You probably already know this but all the dealer does is put your serial number in the BRP computer database and it brings up all your engine information.
Engine hours since last checked, all updates or updates that are needed, etc....

---

And you may want to look into purchasing the diag cable and software, you can then plug in a laptop and see for yourself what the highest temp was on both banks, as well as what updates have been installed, etc. Sometimes things get lost in the shuffle, good to go right to the source and see what's going on.

I'm in the process of looking around for the cable and s/w and will let you know what I find if you're interested.

---

Quick google search located the following ETEC diag software and cable at Bluewater Boats:

http://bluewaterboat.com/software_fic...t_etec.htm

I'm not sure if that is the only option...

---

Dave/Lubber definately interested in any info on software etc, more info is always a good thing.
Joe, plan on being off friday and taking my boat to the dealer where he said while i wait, is making room for me to hook it up to the computer and see what we have. In the meantime, will scan incoming info to see what i have to do to accomplish my own dianogstics as i have a laptop, so its only a matter of getting the software and educating myself.

Duf

---

With the software you can look but you can't touch. To make changes you need to be a dealer. You can look at codes and stored faults but beyond that your limited.

---

:@ Duf
Playing devils advocate, but is it possible that downloading anything yourself could compromise your warranty? I'd be interested to see what the dealer says about it.

---

Kamie's correct IO, the data cable and s/w only allow you to look at all the numbers, you can't make any changes or download. But you can use it while running to get real time data like RPM from the ECU as well as real time fuel consumption that's supposed to be pretty accurate. And in this case, Duf could look and see what the temp's have been on each cyl bank as well as what revisions have actually been downloaded to his engine.

---

Well, after work today will take the short cruise to the nearest boat ramp on the island and get her on the trailer. Should be on the road 7am friday to the dealer (about a 30 - 40 mile trip and see what we have. Definately be interested to see if there was any actual temp spikes. A full report will follow.

Duf B)

---

Good Luck! Good to see you and catch up a bit. John and I sat around for another round and talked boats. He really has a nice rig -- if I were an offshore guy that 25 looks really nice. I think I will stick to the inshore game with gas so high right now.

---

Well, as scheduled, departed the home 0700 for Aransas Pass (41 miles) to my Marine place and arrived almost to the minute at 0800, They were true to their word and started immediately on the discussion phase, and ended with hooking the computer up, and verifying that indeed it had gotten hot, 212 degrees hot. This is where it gets ugly. During the discussion phase it was revealed, that this is not an isolated incident with the big block E-TEC's, that they have in fact had other E-TEC's with the same issue, and the fix was increasing to a larger (about double) the size intakes . This, on other boats has resolved the problem. Now, I for one don't like bandages and this sounds exactly like what it is. If an E-TEC needs bigger intakes, then why are they not designed and engineered that way? Now, don't get me wrong, I really think the guys working on my motor are doing what they think best, but speaking of best, I'm at best skeptical this will be the real fix. So later today I get a call from my Mechanic, and he had called Bombardier on another issue and ran my problem by him as well. He agreed with the bigger intakes, but also wanted him to change the spring on the blow by valve from a 10lb to a 7lb. This was based on what I said, that at idle, by water pressure switch is reading 7-8 lbs. Sooooooooo, I get to take my boat back 41 miles to the dealer again next week. Tomorrow, or Sunday I plan on taking her out and seeing what the engine does with a. the new intakes, and b. really pay attention to the rpms and the water pressure at idle, and at speed. Learned quite a bit today, which I'm not sure if its a good thing or not as I really would rather turn the key, push the throttle forward and go somewhere then become an expert on outboard motors.

More to come i believe :(



Duf

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Sorry to hear about your troubles Duf. Its really not fun to be dealing with this stuff on such expensive investments. I'm sure you will get it straightened out.

---

Duf,
if your going to keep an eye on the pressure, here is a good chart.
http://forums.etecownersgroup.com/too...id=2694655

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Excellent Kamie, i'll take it with me today.

Duf

---

Duf,

You can purchase the software from any dealer. iShopMarine has it for $65 plus the cable, if you get the CDI version that is $80. It is helpful, although taking a laptop, plugged into the engine on a boat, in the water. Don't get too attached to the laptop.

If you are talking your engine in, as the dealer to give you a copy of the report. They can print you a PDF from the software and either email it to you or save it on a flash drive if you have one.

---

As always, good advice Kamie, sure you don't have a twin sister you can fix me up with?? :D So, took her out today and no alarms, i watched the RPM's vrs PSI but didn't jot anything down as i was posed for a no kidding, this ain't working. Now that i know i can do about 4 hours and no alarms, i will repeat tomorrow using Kamie's chart and see exactly what my PSI is vrs RPM's. I can't believe i'm the only one on this website with this issue with a big block E-TEC when i have talked to two dealerships and heard the same story, and the same fix. I'd love to hear i'm not the lone ranger out here with this problem and that if anybody has crossed this bridge before............tell me how you got across and that i'm not breaking new ground here.

Duf

---

Duf
Good thread! I have a buddy that has a 225 E-TEC with similar problems. I'm sending him this thread to give to his mechanic.
Thanks again
Mike

---

Well, the good news is, no alarms again today. Was iffy with the weather, but went for it and these are the results...... all good.

Idle 500 rpms, 5 psi, 1000 rpms, jumped to 10psi, 1500 rpms 11 psi, 2000 rpms, 12 psi, 2500 rpms, 13 psi, 3000 rpms, 13.5 psi, 3500 rpms 13.5 psi, 4000 rpms 13.75 psi, 4500 rpms, 14.5 psi, 5000 rpms, jumped to 17 psi, and 5500 jumped again to 19.75 psi.

According to Kamie's chart, everything is now perfectly in the zone or above, and i only wish i had done the same run with the old intakes.

myakka, you might have your buddy do the same test with his stock intakes on his 225 and post the results for comparison.

More to come, and thanks again kamie!

Duf B)

---

Very good to hear Duf! Do you happen to know the part number of the intakes he installed? Wondering if it's the 5006337 Ultra High Flow or 5007081 UHF+1/4?

---

Dave, i will be talking to them this week in preparation of taking my boat back Sat for the spring change (maybe). I will get the part number and post.

Duf

---

Duf - Weather was iffy?? I went out in the morning yesterday and aside from a really crappy NE wind it was a great day outside. I hope you have resolved your motor issue. When you say you had bigger intakes - do you mean the vents on the lower unit. How did they make them larger? Also, do you know what HP engines run that big block. I am looking at the 150 which is a V6 but I think your 225 has a larger block.

---

Hey Rob, heck yeah, was raining on and off all morning. Trish and I had a launch time set for 1200 and we postponed going to 3:30 or so, and was still real ugly off to the west. Rained again 5 mins after we put the boat up, so you got lucky.

Not sure about the difference in the blocks, although mine is a 6 cylinder, but can steer you to someone who knows. Call 361 758 8486 and ask for Mack. He'll probably have you talk to a guy named Wyaland, who's my mechanic and knows the ETECs front and back.

Duf

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Well I spent the weekend with friends at City By The Sea which is about 6 miles out of Rockport. We also flew out by 12 Noon that Sunday so I have no idea what the weather was doing after that. I fished that morning just outside Port A and filled up at Woody's around 10AM. It still looked nice in that part but I did notice some darker clouds in your direction but did not look like rain.

---

[quote]Blue_Northern wrote:
I hope you have resolved your motor issue. When you say you had bigger intakes - do you mean the vents on the lower unit. How did they make them larger?

Sorry Rob, just noted I didn't answer your question about the vents on your post. Yes, increased the water intakes to a larger size, which apparently are available and my mechanic acquired in 15 mins when i was at the dealership last saturday. I'm getting the part number info for one of they other postees. It seems to be working so far, and i'll use the motor for a while then get another print out to see what the motor temp has been since i did the hack on it last week. No word on any issues on the smaller ETEC's that i know of but if you want me to check on the 150's, i have a guy i can call.

Duf

---

Hi Rob,

The Etec 150-175-200 HP are all the smaller block 2.6L V6 (60 degree) and the 200 HO, 225, 250 are the larger 3.3L (90 degree) I believe the 250 HO is the even larger 3.4L.

I just read a post, and there's significant speculation that the 150 HP is nearly equivalent to the 175 and 200 HP engines, and it would be a great choice.

There are a number of different water intake screens available ranging from the high speed, which are flush mounted and very similar to the old style screens in that regard, to the Ultra High Flow +1/4" which look like a mini version of a shaker hood scoop on a car, and are mounted on the lower unit with the "scoop" facing forward in place of the regular pick up screens.

Duf, Many thanks for checking into the part number.

---

Duf and Derwd24 - Thanks for answering the questions I had. I feel much better going with the 150 now. I have already purchased the new BRP binnacle and started thinking Yamaha for a bit there.

---

Rob,

It is never too late to think Yamaha.....just kidding. Weight should be a deciding factor for a flats boat.

---

Rob,

I bought all new Tech Series Gauges and the Tachometer with System Check....
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/articles/System_Check/Tech_Series_Instruments_t1.jpg[/img]

I bought a new Ignition Key Switch Assembly, not installed until I get the new motors....
[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/articles/key_switches/Key_Switch_176408.jpg[/img]

I also bought a new BRP Dual Binnacle Mount Engine Control not installed yet....
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/E...nnacle.jpg

Now all I need is the new 130 or 150 hp E-Tec engine and a new 9.9 E-Tec kicker.
The 130 and the 9.9 are not out yet....
Just waiting for now...

---

Joe,
not sure they are going to bring out the 130HP any time soon.

Rob,
The 150HP E-Tec is a great engine, same block and weight as the 175HP. It is so quiet, you really can hold a conversation at speed. While you guys down south don't have to worry, there is nothing cooler than pushing a button to winterize the engine and then walking away.

---

Joe,

Seems like you're leaning towards the 130 over the 150, any particular reason?

---

kamie,

Lots of reports that the 130 is supposed to be out soon. But, those are just reports.

Derwd,
The 130 is lighter than the 150 and only 4 cylinders instead of 6... Hopefully just a little cheaper to maintain and a cheaper purchase price...

---

Hey Joe I actually thought about the 130 as well. I really think you will be able to buy a demo or late model new 150 for around the same price. I am not really a speed fanatic but last weekend I was in a friends rig (not a Whaler) that would push 50+ mph. Man you can get around fast! My idea is not to always run like that but if you need it go ahead -- I also thought I could get better fuel economy with the 150 running fewer RPM than the 130. At end of the day it is really going to come down to the weight of my hull when I am done with the restoration work. Originally I had even thought 115 but do not think I would be happy with the performance.

I ended up with the new shinny single binnacle with key by BRP. Very cool looking! B)

---

Hey John I really like the Yamaha but do not think I want the extra 60 pounds back there. I also think I will get a better hole shot with the e-Tec. Did you end up heading to the coast Sunday? We left out by noon and it was already windy.

---

Joe, what did the new set of Tech Guages cost you?

Duf

---

[quote]kamie wrote:
Joe,
not sure they are going to bring out the 130HP any time soon.


Well, i guess we'll find out shortly how good my "insider" info is, as the 130 HP is supposed to be released next week on the 18th.

Duf B)

---

duf,

That's the rumors I have been hearing..

I bought a 'lot' of gauges new on eBay which included the Speed, trim, volt and hour meter... Don't remember what the 'lot' costs...
I later bought a new System Check tach for $110
You have the next grade better set of gauges already on your boat I thought.
Your gauges show a lot more info with the push of a button.

duf....
tip..... don't forget to end the quote with [/quote] which you are missing above.

---

Are you guys familiar with the System Check Commander Tach? It's analog with a digital display below it, says it can show engine hours, fuel level, fuel flow (gph or lph), total or trip fuel used, and can calculate fuel left in tank. Seems to be between the standard System Check and the I-Command.

---

Derwd,

Check out the article I wrote in the article section under OMC/BRP Engine Gauges.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=43

---

Thanks Joe, that's a great article that I've referenced before. Got it now, thanks. Here's a link to the PDF guide for the Commander

Commander

---

Ah Joe, would you believe i do it intentionally just to keep you on your toes? :P All kidding aside, right now my guages aren't telling me anything other then RPM's, Water pressure, and thats it. My Mechanic says they are old analog guages, and its all they can do. Part of it i know is bull as it used to tell me my GPH in addition to the overtemp alarm and now since i did the motor switch it does not, which tells me i've exceeded the limits of his expertise.
When i had the water pressure switch installed they were supposed to remove the water temp switch, which never worked. Instead they replaced my tilt switch which was broken (needle) but working. So bottom line, all i have is my RPM guage and my water pressure.
So, i have 4 or so different switches, and only half of them work, and i plan on upgrading all the obove this winter (on my list of things to do during the two weeks of winter this year). I tried to look up your Tech Gauges you said you had, and came up nada on a web search, so am looking for the latest and greatest to do between now and spring. Who knows, may follow Texas Whalers advice and throw a 115 on with a 115 kicker and if i do, would definately need a good backbone of gauges telling me whats going on!! :D

Duf B)

---

duf,

Here are the current gauge series available for the new E-Tecs.

1. Tech Series
2. Commader Series
3. I-Command Series

I stayed with the easy and cheapest gauges... The Tech Series.
For the other series, you need controllers and other boxes to connect to. I just don't need all those fancy features on my boat as I don't go out very far or very often in the ocean.

If you read a comment I posted on the bottom of the above article I linked to, you will see the gauges I like and recommend.

1. Tach with System Check... This has all the idiot lights and warning horn
2. Voltmeter
3. Trim & Tilt
4. Hour Meter
5. Water Temp (if you have room, I don't...)

The Tech Series is still available from any Evinrude dealer and is still a current line. Your E-Tec wiring harness will plug right into the Tach and a couple other of the Tech Series gauges. Very simple to install and no buttons to push to try and get to other features.. I like it simple.... I have a hard enough time with my cell phone.... :o

---

Duf - Do so reading on the I-Command line. They have not been very successful with these and I have heard several friends pulling them and going back to the Tech series analog gauges. I think there are a lot of dealers that just do not know how to set them up properly. I am going to keep it simple and put the Tech on the outrage.

Tach with System Check
Fuel Gauge
Tilt
Water Pressure
Hour Meter

Keep it simple. ;)

---

I'm with you and am a firm believer in the KISS theory. Keep It Simple Stupid! I'm reading as we speak and will do my homework and see what is not hooked up on my main RPM gauge. Frankly, I’m not even sure which type it is so I will look at Joe and Dave’s posts to see if mine matches one of those and go from there. In the meantime am going to get another tilt trim gauge and possibly a temp gauge, already have a volt meter, so I should be good to go.

Duf B)

---

Not sure how successful they have been with I-Command digital. I believe the I-Command classics had issues both with setup and some early gauge fogging issues. I can tell you that I-command digital is very simple to setup and gives you lots and lots of information.
If anyone wants to go I-Command digital let me know and if you can plug in a light or hook up a stereo/vcr you can have it done. If you can't hook up a stereo/vcr, then find the neighborhood 10 year old that can.
I should probably write up the process of hooking up the I-Command digital gauges. I will look to see if I still have all the photo's from my install.

---

Well, hate to add to this post but i took my boat/motor to the dealer today and he installed the new blow by valve spring which reduces the spring tension from 10 lbs to 7 lbs. that coupled with the new oversized intakes should have solved my over temp problems.........it didn't. I took the boat out late this morning when i got back, launched and within 5 mins i got the OVR TMP alarm. I cruised a little further, and got it again, turned around, and two more alarms before i got back to the boat ramp. So, will be taking the boat/motor 40 plus miles back to the dealer and am getting very fustrated as i'm not getting any closeure here.
Unfortunately, more to come. :(

Duf

---

Duff, Did you notice that the overheats happened around one rpm/speed range only or did they happen at significantly different intervals?

---

Duf,
I think it's time for the dealer to go for a boat ride.

---

Dave, its happened at speed and at idle. The last being between 7 and 8 hundred RPMS as i cruised through the no wake zone heading to Ski basin for an afternoon of enjoyment that didn't happen.

Kamie, my words exactly to my dealer. I'm dropping it off and don't call me till the issues are corrected. Its over 40 miles to my dealer and it cost approximately 40 bucks round tirip every time i go. Getting to be way to often and i'm done.

Like i said, hate adding to this thread, but all the ETEC owners need to be hearing this. As far as i know, its just the big block motors that have an issue.

Duf

---

Ok, hopefully this is the last entry on this thread.

I picked up my boat today and apparently my issues with over-temping, had to do with how i was flushing my motor out. There is an O-ring that seats inside the insert that you remove to utilize the upper portion of the flush option of the ETEC. According to my mechanic, this option is used to flush the motor without starting it, and allows you to flush the entire motor, top to bottom without starting the motor, which makes for happier neighbors at 11PM, or 6am. Normally, you use the lower intackes with the ears, and push the water up into the head. My mistake, was using the upper outlet and allowing the O-ring that i saw, and thought it belonged on the end of the insert. Which, from the first time i pulled it, is where i saw it, to be on the end of the ensert, and not enserted inside the housing for the insert to mate to. Confused yet? Bottom line, i had an O ring in the wrong place which allowed my water pressure to drop significantly enought to overtemp my motor. I will be sending out the new water pressure readings for those of you with the big block ETECS to compare to.

I retrevied my boat and motor today, took a test run, doubled the distance i had that the alarm went off 4 times, had the O ring in the correct position and no alarms.......draw your own conclusions.

God i hope this is the last comment on this thread!!

Still love my ETEC!! ran like a champ today!! Gonna run her like a dog tomorrow!!



Duf B)

---

As a fellow ETEC onwer and lover let me make sure I understand fully. When I flush my motor I connect the garden hose directly into the motor just below the cowling and let it run freely without cranking the motor. During this process water seems to come out of holes all over the place. That's how I was instructed to flush it. My question............Is it harmful to run the motor and let it run in this configuration? If I do run it should I use muffs instead?

---

Tom, my mechanic wanted me to use the ears and running the engine, but with the larger intakes, i cannot, so i have to use the insert (once removed) that your water normally spits out of, as you said, just under the cowling. I always run my engine when i do, and have never been instructed, warned etc not to, nor has it every given me any alarms, as the ears did one time. When i purhcased my boat and motor the prior owner did not have an owners manual, i'm about to obtain one, because, i'm getting different opinions from numerous sources, and feel the best guidance is straight out of the manual. If you have one with your motor, thats probably the best source to go by.

Just be careful if you use the water exhaust to make sure that little O ring is seated correctly when you remove the hose and screw the plastic insert back in! ;)

Duf B)

---

Duf,

I am glad to hear you were able to get this gremlin worked out.

I have been eyeing Etecs as my preferred repower choice some day (won't be for quite a while) and a hoped that this would straighten itself out in a good way.

Doug

---

Duf
On mine I don't remove anything when I connect the garden hose for flusing. It screws directly into the hole we were referring to just below the cowling. I don't have to use an adapter it just screws directly in to it. Maybe my baby motor and your big boy motor are configured a little differently..

---

Doug, yes, it appears it's a matter of operator error, and depending on how out of wack the O-ring was, made a difference in the severity of the over temp alarms. Show's the importance of having a manual, and not doing things on the cuff, and because you think this is how it should be. Cost me a pretty penny in fuel back and forth to the dealer, but i have to tip my hat to them, they didn't charge me for was obviously my oversight.

Tom, took some photos of my water discharge and intake on my 225 and will post them if able. If not, i'll send you the photo's via e-mail if you PM me your address.

Ok, i give. How do we attach photos to a thread? Looked at submit photo feature, but don't see how that attaches to a thread.

Duf B)

---

duff on the cuff....

Click on the "Reply" button and there you will see the attachment feature.

---

Tom,
the large block eTec's are configured differently from the smaller block ones. My 175HP is exactly like yours, but it seems the larger blocks are sensitive to keeping the insert in and correctly seated.

Duf,
glad you got it figured out.

---

Duf,

Thanks for the follow up, always good to know it was resolved correctly and how that was done. Hopefully you're all set! I've always used the muffs as the other flush port seemed a mystery as to whether the engine could be running or not (wonder how the water pump gets its supply), but according to the manual seems OK.

Here's a link to the on line Operators Manual for the Etec, you'll have to select your specific engine, but it should take you right to the PDF: GUIDE

---

Now I know why I didn't put a 225 on mine! :D
Thanks Duf and Kamie for the info

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Ah Joe, you are the man! So, took the boat out and ran her at idle for a good 15 mins out to the main channel, then WOT between 57 and 5800 RPM's, 53 MPH(yeah i know a tad high with the RPM's and prolly need to talk to admin Tom on my prop pitch) for about 8 minutes to the no wake zone by Snoopies, then idle again through packery channel, out to the Gulf (tried to raise you Texas Whaler) as the seas were a gentle 1 to 1.5 footers, and ran a good 30 mins down the coast at 3500 rpms, and 30 MPH with no alarms. Did a repeat back to the house. So it appears as Kamie said, the bigger ETEC's are very sensitive to sealed back pressure and even a slight leak will set off your alarm, and over temp your motor. Good news is, she ran like a blender with milk in it.

Note to Doug: In my research it appeared that there is a nagging problem with the sensitivity of the ETEC big blocks and over temping, which is why BRP tossed the immediate fix of the bigger intakes and 10 lb to 7 lb spring change on the blow by valve. So, is that what fixed my overall problem? Have to look at history, and there were no over temps before i purchased the motor and most likely the changed routine on how the motor was rinsed was the culprit in this particular case which was directly initiated by the mis-located O-ring. However, i think there may be a change in the water pump volume/design on the big ETEC's upcoming in the future as i think the sensitivity is an issue, and based on the charts Kamie supplied me, i should have been good to go with the pressure i had. :P

Gotta tell you though, the motor ran like a kitten with her belly being rubbed in high gear today!! :D

Tom. the upper portal is my exhaust, the lower is the water output, and that is the insert i remove to insert a hose to flush the motor.

Dave, you are the man when it comes to manuals, dang, how do you come up with all them! Anyhow, not sure how you do, but it is truly apprecaited!! :D

Duf B)

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duf,

Glad you found the attachment feature.
Now the photo is located on WhalerCentral for all times...

For those of you that may not be aware of this, click on the photo attachment and a larger photo will pop up in a new window.

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Duf,

You can install the Evinrude #775385 quick disconnect flusher and save yourself taking the tell-tale fitiing off every time you want to flush the motor. The kit includes a fitting that stays screwed into your engine and a quick-disconnect fitting that you put on your hose, then you clip them together like an air-hose fitting, snap on, snap off. It is specially designed for your motor, do not try to use a hardware store quick-disconnect fitting.

For others reading this thread, the #775385 quick disconnect flusher kit is ONLY for the big block E-TEC motors and older engines with the removable tell-tale for flushing.

It is NOT for the inline and 60 ° E-TECs as they have a different plumbing system and this kit will cause an EMM overheat problem.

Did I mention that this kit is NOT for the 2 or 3 cylinder E-TEC motors or the 2.6L 60° E-TEC engines?

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Here is a link to the factory chart of water pressures that you should see.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/23632...8696STUsSu

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Seahorse, appreciate the information and will check out the kit you mention. I think the chart you referenced is the same as Kamie's, but will double check and see what i'm pushing. Remember, my Mech and BRP changed my intake and i believe i'm scooping alot more water then i was previously. Bottom line, she's running like a top and not over temping.

Duf B)

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Tom, this is out of the manual for 225's dealing with flushing. As i discussed before, i would look at your year make model for specifics, but for a 225, 2006 ETEC its either or. Ran her again today and no problems, and obtained and installed the flush system Seahorse recommended. Pretty cool but gotta say, doesn't look as cool as the original, but is way faster.

Duf B)


FLUSHING
If desired, the outboard can be flushed after
each use on a trailer or at dockside while it is
vertical.
1) Place the outboard in an area with good
drainage.
2) Connect garden hose to flushing port.
3) Turn on the water. It is not necessary to
run the engine for a good flushing.
IMPORTANT: The “CHECK ENGINE” or
“CHK ENG” SystemCheck gauge light may illuminate
if you are running the outboard during
the flushing procedure. This is normal.
The outboard will continue to run as long as it
is being supplied with water.
4) Leave the outboard in vertical position long
enough to completely drain the powerhead.
IMPORTANT: If you cannot store the outboard
in the recommended vertical position,
be sure the cooling system is drained completely.
Never place the gearcase higher than
the powerhead. Any water remaining in the
exhaust passages can run into the cylinders
and cause serious damage.
SHORT-TERM (BETWEEN USES

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Thanks Duf...............That is the exact procedure that I have been using and I have never run it during the process. Glad you fianlly got all of your problems worked out and are out enjoying the good life again. B)

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CLIVEOUS OGG, here's that dreaded post that was almost painful to relocate. Has some good info on warnings on smaller motors not being the same. Enjoy your ETEC as since my self induced issues, mine has run great, and just knocked off a 40 mile trip this last weekend, and i couldn't ask for the motor to run any better!

Duf B)