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I would like to reduce the steering effort in my 130 Sport. It's especially stiff steering to port. My trim tab was installed in the neutral position, so I've adjusted it to place the trailing edge slightly offset to starboard. I also loosened the steering friction bolt on the motor as much as I thought I safely could. Has anyone tried attaching the steering arm to the front hole on the attachment bracket as opposed to the middle hole? I know this hole is normally reserved to attach a kicker to your steering, but it seems that it would offer more leverage on the motor when steering from the wheel. Any thoughts?

Ric

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Do you still have pull on the wheel when you're on plane and loosen your grip? If so, you can adjust the tab more until that's gone. Also Ric, how's your engine height on the transom?

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It's hard for me to imagine hard steering on a 13' Whaler.
Something is wrong.

I believe the 130 Sport already has the single cable steering system and possibly the Teleflex NFB system (No FeedBack)...

The tab on the engine is so the steering force is equal in both directions while at your normal cruising speed. With the NFB system, you should be able to let go of the wheel and the boat will not turn.

Your cable may be stiff or your engine shaft may need lubricating or adjusting.
You should have NO tension on any screws for the turning of the engine shaft... Not with a remote steering system anyway. Any tension screws are for tiller models....

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Ric,
No Feed Back steering is your answer. Won't cost you too much and won't tie up the boat for very long. Be done with it! Otherwise, you'll be monkeying around and always dissatisfied. Who needs that right in the best part of the boating season? If you have not experienced a NFB helm, you are in for a treat.
Best of luck,
Grady

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It's a brand new boat and it has the Teleflex NFB system. The wheel does not turn when I let go. That's not the problem. It's just that it's significantly harder to turn to port than starboard when running. The trim tab was neutral so I offset it slightly to starboard and ran the boat today. It's much better but I may adjust it more. How far to starboard is typically the ideal setting for the trim tab?

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Ric,

Whatever it takes to make the steering the same effort to turn Port or Starboard when running at your normal cruise speed. I've seen them at almost 45º. It depends on the boat.

This adjustment only works at your normal cruise speed. Any other speed will be different so a person can't have the steering work perfectly at all the different speeds.

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You are moving the trim tab in the wrong direction. If the boat is harder to steer to port then you want to move the TRAILING EDGE of the trim tab to STARBOARD which is the normal direction of adjustment with standard rotation outboards.

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Actually, I did it correctly. I just typed it wrong. I made the correction above.

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Cable and pulley steering. That's the only way to steer a 13 footer. They have some nice setups for race boats, stainless pulleys and all, that would look good in your new 13 footer. Also lose that plastic wheel, for a stainless destroyer wheel. Actually maybe a 15" wheel would help the steering.

rich

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I did'nt make myself clear is this post. See below

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ghostrider,

As explained above, it is the other way around. You have it backwards.

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Could be.

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I've recently replaced the midsection housing on my 40HP Yamaha. When I used the boat for the first time since I replaced the housing, I found that the boat would steer to the starboard (Right) and it required a certain amount of left steering effort to maintain a straight course. To maintain a straight course, without any steering effort, I had to move my trim tab, located on the lower unit, towards the stbd side. In other words, as I am looking at the engine in front of me, and the propeller is staring me in the face, I moved the tab to the right. I retested the boat and it steered straight. So in order for me to adjust the right steering tendancies of the boat, I had to adjust the tab to the right. Hope this makes sense.

Cliff

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That's right. You turn the rear of the tab in the direction the motor is pulling. ghost rider

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Which means I'm doing it correct as well. While my wheel is not pulling in either direction, it is harder to steer to port than starboard, which is essentially the same as a boat that pulls to starboard. To compensate, I'm moving the trailing edge of my trim tab to starboard. It definitely helped. I'll try moving it a little further next time out.

Ric

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I have exactly the same boat (2001) with the Teleflex NFB steering and Mercury 40 HP. I thought I had a stiff steering mechanism as well and realized the trim tab needed adjustment as you did. It seems to be different with different props and trims. I ended up settling on a 10-3/8" diameter x 13 pitch that works well with any load I put in the boat. my boat came with a 14 pitch which was too high a pitch for a full boat.

BIG REVELATION: My boat arrived with the motor mounted at the top holes on the mount (motor running deepest). I raised the motor to it's highest position and it still runs deep enough for all loads and trims. The boat simply runs best for me with the motor set at it's highest position. I can get it up on plane and good speed with any load in that position. This made a huge difference when combined with the prop choice.

The 130 is a great boat! I love the one I have. I get stopped and asked about it all the time. Watch the envy as all those other guys shell out $$$ for gas. My 13' just sips it all day long!

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Mine has a 14P prop as well. It runs the full 6000 rpms with two adults. I plan on buying an SS prop soon but I wait until I get the full family of 4 on board to determine if the 14P is too much. My motor is mounted in the middle hole (3rd from top, 3rd from bottom).

Thanks for the input.

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Good article on correct engine height and propping

http://www.veradoclub.com/smf/index.p...opic=137.0

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I have a 13' 60 Boston Whaler that I just restored. I put in Teleflex NFB with Stainless Destroyer style wheel. Over all I think the NFB is a bit stiffer than a rope and pulley system, but it is equal in both directions. It works well, but I did need to use the ever so expensive transom standoff bracket due to the old BW transom angles. I have been told there are two things on the older Whaler 13' transoms that make them unique. 1: They require a short shaft 15" engine and 2: They require the transom stand off bracket if using a NFB type system. I can attest without modifications this seems to be dead on. Not sure if you use a Teleflex NFB setup, but that standoff bracket allow proper alignment of the cable shaft to prevent binding.

-Bob

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Bob,

You are correct. I have a stand off bracket on my 1966 13 foot BW in order to be able to properly use a Teleflex steering cable. The steering on my boat with a 40 HP Yamaha is incredibly easy and almost effortless. You can steer it with your pinky if needed. :D