Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by CapnJs on 06/30/08 - 6:18 PM

I'm in the process of making my RPS seat back and have purchased a set of stainless frames from Ray at Martin Marine.

The only part that seems to be missing from the drawings is the wood or plastic piece on the underside of the seat through which the frames pass. I don't know if this piece stabilizes the swing arms or some other function. I've seen several different photos (but can't find them now) of these pieces and it seems to me that there are several different designs.

Does anyone have drawings or photos of that part and the reason for their existence? Thanks.

Jack

Posted by Joe Kriz on 06/30/08 - 6:30 PM

Jack,

Those plastic pieces are for the older version of the RPS.

The newer style has a recess in the Z legs to specifically hold the rails in place so there is no need for those plastic pieces. Those plastic pieces got in the way for many people that tried using different fuel tanks on their Montauks...

Do your Z legs look like these?
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=349
Pay particular attention to the 2 radius cutouts on the top of the Z leg.
If yours does not have this type of cutout, then you have the older style with much larger cutouts that do not hold the pivot frames in place and therefore used the plastic blocks.

Edited by Joe Kriz on 06/30/08 - 6:34 PM

Posted by CapnJs on 07/19/08 - 8:59 PM

I have made the basic cuts for the RPS seat back and have one question before I start assembling the seat.

1. There are two 3 7/8" X 1/2" X 11/16" pieces that appear to attach to the inside of the back of the bottom two slats; I assume to stiffen the long 1" cutout. Are these two pieces glued to the back of the two slats and why aren't they mounted a little closer to the middle of the cutout? (Maybe you can put them anywhere you want but somebody obviously picked those spots for a reason?)

Lastly thanks to Jeff for correcting the error in the width of the top piece from 3 1/2" to 4 1/2". You saved me from making a costly error (maybe?).

Jack

Edited by CapnJs on 07/20/08 - 6:52 AM

Posted by CapnJs on 07/20/08 - 6:50 AM

#11

The post is from April 2008:

http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...post_20936

Now that I have started to assemble the seat I see that 4 1/4 may be too wide and 3 1/4 may be the correct size. But when I was searching for info to build the seat I came across the above post and noted it on my copy of the drawing.

I don't know why Jeff made the comment or perhaps he corrected it later and I missed it?

There is another apparent difference between the drawings and the photos of the finished seat backs; the drawing calls for 1/2" seat slats but most of the photos sure look like they are 3/4" or at least thicker than 1/2"? If the slats were made 3/4" thick a 4 1/4" wide top piece might make sense, however, if the slats are 1/2", as the drawing calls for, the 3 1/4" width is probably better.

I suppose people have modified the drawing to suit their tastes and the availability of wood stock.

Jack

Edited by CapnJs on 07/20/08 - 8:20 AM

Posted by Jeff on 07/31/08 - 6:41 PM

#12

If you cut the top piece of the RPS at 3 1/4" you may end up short like I did. Well I was not short so to speak the piece was just to wide enough to create a drip edge on the front and back of the seat. I was using true 3/4" thick material so with the 2" triangle and then the 2 3/4" thick slats (one on each side) I was at 3 1/2" wide while the top cap I cut was cut per the drawing at 3 1/4" wide (1/4" short). So even if you planed your wood down to a true 1/2" thick you are only left with a 1/8" drip edge front and back. Which if you are off at all to the bad you may have no drip edge or by in my boat. So if you rough cut the top to 4 1/4" wide you are able to tailor the cap to your liking. I kept mine at 4 1/4 wide and it is a lot more comfortable to sit a top of while piloting.

Posted by CapnJs on 08/01/08 - 5:30 PM

#14

I'm only an amateur wood worker and I make lots of mistakes; not so many since I started paying attention to "measure twice, cut once" but still some

So I am actually glad that I cut the top piece at 4 1/2. As Jeff says even with 1/2" slats, which I used, I only finished with an 1/8" overlap after I cut it back to 3 1/2.

When I put the 4 1/2" piece on top I thought that the overhang would be uncomfortable to lean against. If I start to use the seat back for sitting on instead of against I'll probably wish that I had 4 1/2 inches. There's always a trade off but I still agree with Jeff that I'd rather start with 4 1/2.

Does anyone have any further thoughts about using Gorilla Glue for gluing the wood plugs. I have made a half dozen test pieces with GG and it fills voids (my slip ups) nicely and takes the stain that I'm going to use very well. I have read about twenty articles from people with different ideas on what to use to glue the plugs; from varnish, to wood glue to epoxy to Gorilla Glue and there doesn't seem to be any real consensus. It seems to be what people have used and like.

Jack

Posted by stephenccrawford on 06/26/09 - 9:56 AM

#15

Gorillia glue is not the way to go! I build furniture an various other woood working projects and Tight Bond II is what you should use. I have read many reports with poor ratings for Gorilla glue. Just thought you should know. Actually plain elmers gule is better.
Stephen