Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Need throttle help
Posted by jdizzie on 06/24/08 - 2:01 PM
#1
Well, I'm still having major throttle problems on my Whaler Revenge 20 1987, with a merc black max 150, and quicksilver binnacle mount control box with the trim adjustment on top of the knob.
I brought it to my local outboard guy and he's telling me everything's working mint on land. He wants to splash it this coming Thursday to see what it's like running under load. He's going to run it in the sound on Thursday.
However, when I ran it, (keep in mind I've had this same issue since I bought the Revenge last August), I'm having the following issues :
No throttle response when in forward. I'll have to push it to 3/4 just to get it to move beyond real slow.
The throttle will not stay open, it falls back on me, I have to keep it pinned with my hand and steer with my left.
It won't get up over 4200rpm at WOT, and then if I'm lucky it'll "catch" all the throttle and sponttaneously jump to 5500 rpm (where I believe it should be at WOT)
Top speed is approximately 26 mph via the Sitex and GPS.
The throttle doesn't stick, it seems to shift fine, and it's not utilizing the full power of the motor.
My local guy said I would need to switch to some Gen 2 merc controls or something at absolute worst?
But the motor screams, I know the motor runs well... What Gives?
What dou you guys think I should do?
Any response is greatly appreciated.
Graci,
-J.
Posted by kamie on 06/24/08 - 3:08 PM
#2
It could be the control is going bad. I had that happen, although when mine went bad, the engine wouldn't start. They do go bad occasionally.
If you need a control, I have one I will sell you. It's sitting in my house in a box, used about 10 times before the engine blew.
Edited by kamie on 06/24/08 - 3:10 PM
Posted by jdizzie on 06/24/08 - 3:46 PM
#3
Kamie,
Thanks for the speedy reply, if I do end up needing a new control box, I will definitely take you up on your offer. I'll hit you up with an email, so long as it's a binnacle and not a side mount control. I know my motor runs great, and this is the last piece (besides hydraulic steering) that I need to make this rig run proper.
Still need more replies....
Thanx,
-J.
Posted by Binkie on 06/24/08 - 4:13 PM
#4
Don`t know your particular control box, and I`m just surmising here. If your mechanic has gone over the box, the cables, and the hookups to the engine and can not find anything wrong, I don`t think the problem is your control box. As far as your throttle creeping on you, there is a simple tensioner adjustment for that. I would bet that when the boat is water tested, he will find some electronic intermittent problem with your motor. Let us know the results, as it may help someone else that's in the same situation as you.
Then again I could be all wrong.
rich
Posted by oliver1234 on 06/24/08 - 9:23 PM
#5
it might be the clamps that hold the brass barel in place (pushrod tube, i think) if they are loose, the tube will slide when the lever is moved causing the problems. i dont really know the anatomy of your control but mine did that when i first installed it.
Posted by jdizzie on 06/25/08 - 11:41 AM
#6
So I just got back from the outboard guy and gave him all the info that I acquired. Possibilities included : a spun prop hub, an electronic intermittent motor problem, the throttle cable itself being shot, everything to the cover for the control being on backwards.
He tells me that the throttle cable is stainless steel, it would break before it would bend, and he's 99% sure it's not the issue. He also tells me : "You know kid, It might be your prop..."
OK, so he takes the prop off which is a michigan wheel rapture stainless steel prop ( I believe a 17) ... he pulls it off, and "What's that pencil doing in there?" Pencil????? Sure enough I look into the prop and there's a regular pencil running through there. He says to his buddy : "What do you think, was it cavitating?" I have no idea what cavitation is or why there was a pencil through my propeller but he's putting a different prop on tomorrow (an aluminum one, which I'm not very fond of), and splashing it in the sound.
$125.00 I'm up to, and no repairs made.... ugh.
The saga continues.....
I'll post more info when I get some.
Posted by egerrity on 06/25/08 - 11:52 AM
#7
Cavitating basically means the prop was getting airbound and loosing its bite.. A pencil?? This is going to be an interesting thread.
Posted by ioptfm on 06/25/08 - 1:11 PM
#8
I woul dmake sure and keep that prop that he is removing and I to am most interested as to the outcome of this one! :D
Posted by Binkie on 06/25/08 - 2:26 PM
#9
Easy to tell if the prop has spun. Just put a little file mark on the edge of the prop hub, and a little knife cut on the rubber hub next to the prop mark. If the hub spins the two marks won`t match up. Don`t pay for his time to test that, just borrow a prop and test it yourself. If the problem is gone completely the prop was your problem. However, not likely. How does he charge you, has he checked the controls completely and ruled that out. If not, a water test will probably tell the story, if he is a good mechanic. I hope he isn`t charging you for thoughts that pop into his head as to the cause of the problem.LOL
rich
Posted by jdizzie on 06/29/08 - 3:08 PM
#10
Well, we (the outboard guy and myself) splashed the Revenge Saturday with a new Merc Prop (with no pencil) and still had the same problem. Still only getting about 4200 rpm, and the throttle would still fall back at WOT. We get back to the launch, and then..... nothing. No spark, he's saying the stator is shot. I guess there's like a high and low end to the stator, and that's why on land he's not seeing a problem, but I was having all the afore mentioned issues in the water.
So, he's changing the stator on tuesday, My new question is : Can I put a higher amperage stator on this old black max? Would it be better? And.... what do you all think about me buying this aluminum prop? If the prop wasn't the issue, should I go with it anyways? I sort of want to, just because I do not have a spare, and I've learned that it's good to have a spare ANYTHING when it comes to boating.
Thoughts and opinions are greatly welcome as always.
P.S. - I pulled that pencil out of the old prop, the rapture SS, it was jammed right through the side of the prop to the hub. Why it was there?, I'm still not sure.
Regards,
-J.
:@
Posted by dburr on 06/30/08 - 9:28 PM
#11
If I am not mistaken you can re-hub a wheel so get the stainless one back. If the pencil was in the rubber hub there must be quite a story involved!
The 3/4 advance before any action seems mighty suspicious as a rigging problem…
Have you checked the link and sync on the engine? When you advance the throttle cable how much movement on the throttle and timing arms do you get? Will they make the stops at WOT?
Check your manual for the steps to verify link and sync, if you don’t have a book, Clams Canino in the Mercury Engine Forum on iboats (my apologies) did a great post on "timing and sync of Merc inlines (to 1988)" that might be helpful. Different motor but trouble shooting steps should help..
1000 pardons if I have blasphemed..
Dave
Posted by jdizzie on 07/08/08 - 7:19 PM
#12
The stator was the problem.
RPM's back up to 5200 rpm.
Top speed about 36 mph
Mechanic tightened the friction screw in the throttle box, and the throttle now stays just fine.
I kept the aluminum prop on there too. It's an inch larger in diameter than the stainless, same pitch though.
Now the temps runing high again though (ugh)
The mechanic told me he'd look into it.
Overall seems like an honest guy.
$740.00 (yuck)
I'm happy though, she runs well.
I think binkie won this thread.
Thanks, for the replies.
-Justin