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I am replacing the 3 piece rub rail on my boat.

I was wondering if anyone has any tips to prevent damage to the paint and or boat during this process?

I have read about people using clamps to hold the rub rail? I assume they are using some kind of board covered in carpet or something to prevent the clamp from scratching the paint on the inside?

Also, when installing the reciever...... How hard do you press down on top of the trim piece on top? Should it be squished or just tight?

Lastly........ I was thinking of using screws and 5200 instead of rivets. It looks like the rivets really tore the boat up when I removed them. I had to do quite a bit of body work on the gunnel before I could paint it. Would the screws be enough? Is there a right and wrong size (length and diameter)?

Sorry for all the questions...... I want to do this right the first time!

AJ

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Hi,

When I first bought my boat (15' sport) I could'nt get the Bow light to stay working, there was some kind of short that I could'nt find. I took out the home made screws in the rear part of the rub rail and pulled it off 1 side of the boat.
I fixed to short by replacing the whole 2 pc wire set under the rub rail. The previous owner had used standard lamp wire. When he put the screws back to hold the rub rail in, you guessed it, right through the middle of the lamp cord w/ every screw, 5 perfect shorts. I could not get the rub rail back into the channel on the side of the boat. I took a block of wood, and gently tapped it back in the channel w/ a hammer. It took about an hour. Everything went well until I got to the end of the rub rail. I noticed that the rub rail was about 3-5" short of reaching the transom, let alone wrap around the back of the transom "Hey, it like was'nt like that before I started the job" perplexed, I took a small pair of vice grips, and pulled/ stretched the rub rail back to where it should be, towards the transom on the boat. The whole side that I just worked an hour on fell right out of the channel, off the boat and onto the garage floor ????? I was like "What the Hell kind of torture is this", then the horns kicked in, and my shoes started to squeek, my brain started working (YES THAT HAPPENED AGAIN). I was like "DUH !!!!! THATS HOW THEY GET THE RUB RAIL INTO THE CHANNEL ON THE BOAT WHEN THEY BUILD IT AT THE FACTORY !!!!!! THEY STRETCH--------> IT !!!!!!! when you stretch/pull the rubber rub rail towards the transom (or bow), it thins out and fits/snaps right in the rub rail channel on the boat, just stretch it slightly and have a buddy snap it in place. release the stretched rubber rail a bit, she locks in, and just put 1 screw AND FLAT WASHER in the back AWAY FROM THE WIRES to hold down the rub rail, took 10 minutes ( if that long). Hope this helps...

MW

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MW,

I did not even think of wiring. Are you using anything special for wiring? Or can I just pick up some wire at Radio Shack or Home Depot?

Thanks for the tip on the rub rail! That makes a lot of sense. I havent even thought of that yet.

My main concern is screwing the reciever to the boat. Espeially at the bow. There are 2 very tight curves up there. I wonder if I should use a heat gun up there....

I'm just worried about breaking the reciever during installation!! If anyone can break it...... I CAN!!

I'm going to attempt to put it on Friday.

AJ

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That thinning out of the rub rail material as it is stretched is mathematically determined using Poisson's ratio for any techies out there.

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AJ,

I'd suggest using marine grade wire, NOT wire from radio shack etc. The reason being, marine grade wire is plated with something to help prevent deterioration. I learned this when inquiring with my mechanic about rewiring my whaler; he told me standard wire would leave me with headaches year after year. I used marine grade and am happy I did.

Good luck,

Dana