Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by jollyrog305 on 03/31/08 - 6:27 AM

Anyone know of a product, or have a home made solution, to prevent chafing/rubbing of dock lines against engine cowlings. I bought a product to prevent chafing of lines, but it is more for where the lines run through hawse pipes, etc. I was thinking of visiting my local equestrian supply store and buy some fleece cinch covers. Thoughts?

Edited by jollyrog305 on 03/31/08 - 6:28 AM

Posted by Yiger on 03/31/08 - 2:19 PM

Fire hose works well. You might be able to get a few feet of an old unused hose from your local fire department. We used to use this stuff in college and it lasted very well. The historical thing to use is a piece of leather. It probably works the best and it looks nice too.

Posted by jollyrog305 on 03/31/08 - 2:35 PM

What I need is exactly that - something that will cover the ropes so they won’t scratch the cowlings. Mercury sells very nice covers for the Verados, but they are a bit pricey for 2. I have heard about using leather, but won’t that mar the cowling as well? I thought about fleece since it is very soft, durable and breathable (although it could produce static).

Posted by Phil T on 03/31/08 - 3:38 PM

Jolly -

While I would like to help, I am not clear why your lines are chafing at the motor. Can you move a cleat to eliminate the issue? Got a photo I can view (and drool over you boat too)?

What about threading a car seat belt protector made of that of wool like material?

[img]http://www.kiwi-sheepskins.com/images/lrg-safety-belt-cover-white.jpg[/img]

Posted by jb4146 on 03/31/08 - 4:51 PM

I agree with Noontide, anything you use is going to chafe on the cowling to some degree if the there is enough tension in the line.

That said, how about neoprene? Some sailing dinghies employ a sown neoprene sleeve on nylon hiking straps that are similar to auto seat belts in the cockpit (where you hook your feet under) to prevent chafing on bare skin.

How about one of those swim noodles with the hole in the center? Not too cosmetically appealing, but perhaps functional. Thread the line through or slit it down the length and slip it on.

I'm on a roll here...

Similar to a swim noodle but lower profile would be one of those lengths of foam they sell in home stores to insulate hot water pipes. I've used that solution with some success to protect the hood of my vehicle from chafing from the line that holds a big load on the roof down in front and is tied under the bumper. Can't beat the price on that one.

Just guessing, but I think fleece type solutions will absorb water and eventually turn green and cruddy.

Posted by ioptfm on 03/31/08 - 5:31 PM

I would think that you need to reconfigure your dock cleats so the lines won't come in contact with the cowling. Even you have soft cotton rubbing on the fiberglass cowling in the same spot over a period of time it is going to chaffe the finish

Posted by jollyrog305 on 04/01/08 - 5:30 AM

Attached is the stern config. The only difference is that the motors are tilted up which causes the dock lines to cross over larger areas of each motor. I did neglect to state that there is sufficient slack in the lines for tidal changes, etc.

CBO – Thanks for the suggestion. The seat belt protector is almost exactly like the cinch cover except that the cinch is fleece.

Jim - didn’t think about the noodles, but I do have a lot of the Freon line covering left over from last year. It has a self adhesive strip down the cut to bind/fuse it together and I could zip tie it at the ends.

I think I will just make the investment in the Verado covers. They have a high UV protectant, interior lining and will keep the cowling/decals looking good.

Verado Cover

Thanks everyone – appreciate your feedback

Edited by jollyrog305 on 04/01/08 - 5:50 AM

Posted by Noontide on 04/01/08 - 1:04 PM

#11

Besides our Whaler 17 we also have a larger Contender which had the same problem. We solved it by moving the boat substantally forward in the slip and using much longer stern lines. Now the lines chaff along the lower unit instead of the cowling. If you cant do this go for the cowling cover anything else will chaff the cowling over time.

Posted by moose on 04/01/08 - 1:15 PM

#12

I don't know the range of the tides in your area but would it be possible to run these lines forward and secure them to the cleat/pile at the bow and run the bow lines to where these tie off? Would that give you too much movement?
Mike

Posted by jollyrog305 on 04/01/08 - 1:24 PM

#13

Unfortunately I can't move her any more forward. Found some less expensive, but nice, covers. I think I will use a combination of these covers and the freon covers over the lines. I guess I could always tie the port to the port piling and the sboard to sboard piling, but I thought crossing was more secure/stronger? Will try to get a photo this weekend.

Posted by moose on 04/01/08 - 1:47 PM

#14

If you must cross the motors you might try to spray some "liquid rollers" on the covers to make them more slippery where they rub. Also changing the lines fore and aft shouldn't move the boat at all. You may have misunderstood what I meant.
Mike

Edited by moose on 04/01/08 - 1:49 PM

Posted by ioptfm on 04/01/08 - 6:19 PM

#16

In my opinion, your best option will be to not cross the lines and use additional spring-lines mid way on the boat. That will prevent it from forward and rear movement, but again, regardless of how soft it is, any material at all rubing on the cowling for a length of time is going to mar the finish

Posted by jollyrog305 on 04/02/08 - 6:10 AM

#17

Thanks everyone. I am going to buy the covers (mostly for UV/weather protection), uncross the stern lines and run a “new’ spring line along the entire sboard side. Thoughts?

Posted by Phil T on 04/02/08 - 7:56 AM

#20

Jolly -

I appreciate the diagrams. Thanks for the effort.

What are the concerns you need to address. Are you getting a repeating wind/current movement in one or two directions?

Posted by egerrity on 04/02/08 - 12:53 PM

#22

Have you tried running spring lines from stern to the midway poles? and uncross the stern lines? Instead of having the spring lines run all the way to the front poles.

Posted by pglein on 04/02/08 - 1:12 PM

#23

I like your revised mooring line plan. That's how it should be anyway. Crossing the lines over the engines was unecessary and caused the chafing problem you were concerned about.

Posted by Phil T on 04/02/08 - 1:14 PM

#24

Jolly -

Sorry for being so vague.

Are you just securing the boat in calm conditions? Do you need to prevent movement in certain directions caused by wakes or wind?

Are the lines secured on the pilings at a fixed point and what is the tidal drop?

Posted by jollyrog305 on 04/02/08 - 1:31 PM

#25

The boat is in a marina, guarded and in calm conditions. Westerly winds may have and effect, but I think they will be minimal. What is not demonstrated on my horrific plan drawing, but I have about 3' between each side of the boat and the pilings (more at the bow) and about 2-3' from the back of the motors (fully titled) to the rear seawall/sidewalk. I plan on using the last config posted - uncrossing the stern lines/running them "straight" back and then adding an additional sboard spring line the length of slip, securing it to the middle cleat.

Posted by Phil T on 04/02/08 - 3:54 PM

#26

Jolly -

That is good information to know. In looking at your revision, it appears good. Have you considered crossing your bow lines to cut down on the side to side forces?

I think you will find, after observation and adjustments, what works the best.

Posted by jollyrog305 on 04/02/08 - 6:59 PM

#27

First, I would like to thank everyone for their feedback and suggestions - they have been extremely helpful. CBO, your suggestion was the first suggestion from my father, more of a sailboat person than motor boat, but nevertheless, he said "you always cross the bow lines". Problem is, because of how it sits in the slip and the "angle" from the bow cleats to the front pilings, I think the bow rail will get in the way and/or the docklines will chafe the rail - same problem just different end. I will try a few configs this weekend to see what works best.

Posted by jollyrog305 on 04/08/08 - 5:49 PM

#29

Just to follow up – attached is what I ended up going with. Ended up using, what I think egerrity suggested for a couple of reasons. One of which, I found out that I can only “fit” so much 5/8” line around a 8” cleat. May be a bit overkill, but she moves with the wind and tides without slamming into anything. Funny thing (not really) is in the week that we discussed this topic, the crossed lines had already started to mark the cowlings, but nothing that a good wax wouldn’t take care of. Thanks everyone