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what is the fastest that you know of a 13ft whaler has gone. i get around 32mph and have never lost a race to other whalers even with larger engines. i got a 99 evinride 30 with a 4 blade prop but i was thinking of rebuilding the entire engine. is there any way to get a double barrel carb on that guy? boat isnt going in this summer due to having to many at the monet so im looking for a project on it. all wood is also being redone and glass work was done that season i want this boat to fly

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that engine probably uses the same block as other engines of larger horsepower so to rebuild with more power it would seem like you could just order all the parts from the highest horsepower engine which uses that block (crankshaft, jugs, carbs, ext....)

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Last time I had mine out it was just shy of 40 on the top end, at least that is what my buddy on the jet ski next to me had indicated on his speedo. Mine has a 50... will walk back and forth a little bit from side to side at WOT. It might do better and be more controlable if I had tilt and trim. My manual trim positon is down a little bit because otherwise it porpoises like crazy at pretty much any speed if it isnt.

I plan to be back in the water Memorial Day, will give you a GPS speed then...

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I think taking the hook out of the bottom would give you the most bang for the buck. That's the way to make the boat fly, the hook is always pushes the bow down. The more power you put on the stern, the more it pushes the bow down. Also reduce total weight as much as possible.
The hi performance and bass boat boys say you have to accelerate past the porpoising and control the chinewalking with steering inputs. That means no play in the steering, spend the money to get it tight, safe and strong.
The rounded bottom doesn't help, if you take out the hook, add a pad while you're grinding and glassing.
Once you can get most of the hull out of the water, then decide if you want to add horse power. Increased compression ratio, and porting combined with proper jetting and timing seem to be most effective ways to get more power out of a 2 stroke. Most stock carbs are plenty big already.
Plenty of sites to research outboard perfomance hulls and engines, most will say, light weight, and less boat in the water = speed. Once you make these changes its not your happy and safe Whaler any more. Hooking a chine and blowover are real possibilities. MartyD

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Dan,
I don't know what year you have but 32 is not so fast for a 13. With ptt I could run at wot and then start trimming up. When the bow raised enough to get most of the hull out of the water and just riding on the back foot or so, it lurched forward and flew. I got 45.1 mph on gps as my fastest. NOT SAFE. I don't recommend any speed over 40.
Mike

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Well, my 13' runs pretty good . I think it does about 35 mph according to my speedometer that is on my console. I am not sure what it runs via GPS though I plan on finding out soon. I put a 15 degree pitch SS prop on my rig not to long ago and I think that son of a gun runs pretty well with that set up.

If I could get more out of her, please advice. My motor is 21 years old but see,s to run like new.

Take care my Whaler brothers.

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The 13 ft whaler is the only planing boat I know of intentionally built with a hooked bottom. It was designed by Ron Hunt, inventor of the Deep Vee. I`m surmising he did this to minimize porpoising, however with today's heavyweight motors porpoising is inevitable. Try a lightweight 25-30 hp motor, (the motor the boat was designed for) and porpoising will be minimized. I guess you could grind the hook off and reconfigure the bottom at the stern, but why bother, the boat is not built for speed. Sell it and get a 15 footer, and go crazy.

Rich

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They manufacture "Race outboard's" in small displacement engines (High Output), they are made for "WOT", are difficult to start and keep running. A 40 HP reg. outboard on a 13' is one "Fast package".
mw

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The only Race Engine built today is the Yamato, built in Japan. They are dependable and easy to start. They wouldn`t be suitable for use on a 13 ft. Whaler due to the mid section lengh, direct drive,(forward only), 1:1 gear ratio, and they do not have a water pump, (will not cool the engine at slow speeds)
http://www.seattleoutboard.org/Yamato...ology.html

rich

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Yeah, with my old 40hp, I used to break 40kts all the time. Of course, I weighed 100# less than I do now. I think that with a tuned 50hp engine, trimmed up, but with just the proper weight distribution, you could break 45kts (about 54mph) or even more. Of course, this assumes no modification to the hull. Once you "take out the hook" or add a "planing pad", it's really not a 13' Whaler anymore.

Everyone always talks about this "hook". I've never been able to see it on my 13'. It looks pretty darn flat to me.

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I don't have a lot of 13' experience, but I did have a pre 1972 Sport awhile back. I removed the bottom paint, did some repairs to the keel. When I used a long board to sand the bottom, the hook was very evident. Close to 3/4 inch, maybe it was more pronounced on the older models?
That boat was used really hard for a long time. and that section of the bottom near the transom was probably the only unrepaired area on the whole boat. MartyD

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Here are my observations about the "hook" in a classic 13. It's not the typical hook you see in a hull that has an area that is sunken in from structural failure or damage or whatever. I see that the lines from the front (being the 3 "sponsons") and the lines from the stern (being the flat bottom from the transom forward) meet at an angle that produces the same effect as a true hook. When I can trim my motor out enough to get the "sponsons" out of the water, my boat FLIES!
Mike

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Moose
I don`t agree with you at all. If you ever have your boat upside down, and lay a straight edge of about 4 feet on the bottom between the runners, you will see a definite hook of about 3/4", and a lip at the stern also. I read an article quite a while ago, that stated that when Ron Hunt and Dick fisher designed and built the prototype back in `56 and Dick Fisher took it on a long run on, I believe Long Island Sound, he found the boat to be very wet, and hard to make handle well. They redesigned the bottom of the plug the prototype was made from, and put that boat into production with out retesting it. I guess they believed the radical hook introduced into the bottom would be a cure all for the Ill handling boat. It was designed for a 25hp of the day that weighed in at a little over 100lb, Its not a bad riding boat if you stick with that formula. Anyway, thats my take on the situation.
rich

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my 1966 13' has a very distinct hook too. No matter how high I trim my motor up, the bow never comes up....it still rides the same and I get wet from the bow riding so low.

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:o