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Two full nights of careful, laborious sanding has made the beautiful wood of the RPS ready to apply a finish. My thought was Minwax Polyurethane. They have an all season product in satin finish. Sound good to everyone? I'm open to ideas. Sanding took a LONG time! I would like not to have to repeat that process due to a mistake in selection of the finish.
Thanks,
Grady

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I recommend several coats of Daly's SeaFin Teak Oil.

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zSpar captains varnish is my choice, thin the first couple coats and then apply full strength for 5 to 6 more coats.

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I have never tried varnishing teak. But, I do have alot of expirience with using Deks Olje Matte finish mixed with a little gloss. I guess this is more or less a varnish? It does seem to dry and seal like one.
I am in the middle of sanding all my parts for my 1991 Montauk. Still on the fence of what to use to finish. I hate to start a debate, but what are some opinions?

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Ed,
Don't worry, you will not start a debate. These guys all know each other very well. You'll just hear what experiences they bring to the question. This will be good. We'll all learn a bit.
So far, it sounds like there is nobody that feels that my question about Polyurethane agrees that that is a good choice. Glad I asked!
Grady

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I think it also depends on how a person stores their boat.

1. If a person trailers their boat and keeps it under cover like in a garage etc., then I believe it is hard to beat oiling the teak. (my opinion and this is what I do)
However,
2. If your boat is left out in the weather all season like at a dock etc., then a person would probably want to use some type of varnish.

Everyones boat use can be completely different from another's so there really isn't a right or wrong way.

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Grady
Thanks, I wasnt sure if Deks Olje made by Flood was still available. I found it on Jamestown Distributors at a good price. While I was there I ordered a badger brush. Looks like Flood (on there web site) recommend to start with a couple of coats of the Matte finish and then finish with a couple of coats of the gloss. Looks like thats the direction I am going. I hope to finish sanding soon.. These louver doors are a real pain. Ill update soon.

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I tried polyurathane on one of my bench seat slats (after it was completely bare) and didn't like it at all because it did not bring out the color in the wood. I've stayed with Z Spar and have been very happy. FYI - I used oak for the stairs in the house. A couple of coats of Z Spar with a final coat of polyurathane. Got the color and needed toughness. Haven't tried this on the boat but I don't see why it wouldn't work. I've always applied a couple of coats of Z Spar using 150 grit in between followed by a couple of coats with 220 grit in between.

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OK,
Sounds like the nice grain character of the wood will be better displayed by rubbing with oil finish. There may be some durability to a poly finish, but the grain won't be as nice looking. Storage conditions should be a factor. Varnish sounds like kind of a hybrid approach with no negatives and would be a good choice however, I, like Joe, will have this boat on a trailer and either in the barn or garage when not in use so constant exposure will not be the case.
My hope is to emphasize the beauty of the wood and offer adequate protection. It's sounding like a rubbed oil finish is how I will do this project. I'm looking forward to applying that first stroke of oil to the freshly sanded wood. Talk about instant gratification!!
Thanks everyone for your helpful responses. Whaler Central has been an invaluable resource during this restoration. I really appreciate your interest and assistance.
Grady

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I agree with all that has been said... especially if the boat has light exposure. I have a full Mills cover for mine and seperate console and RPS covers to use when i leave the boat in the water. That rubbed on oil will looks great. Half way through the season you can give it a good cleaning and add another coat with great ease.
It sounds like Im talking myself out of Deks Olje. Do I really need the teak to look like a bartop?
Grady, do you ahve any tips on sanding the inside portions of the RPS?

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The choice between varnish or oil rubbed is a personal one.

I should point out however, that the best prep for a good varnish job is to apply and wet sand the first coat with Daly's SeaFin Teak Oil. This will seal the wood, fill the grain and form a solid base for the varnish to adhere to. SeaFin Teak Oil is, after all, essentially a very thinned form of varnish with some additives to increase durability.

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I actually plan to try Tom's way when I finish the gauge panels for the 18. I basically do the same thing by thinning the first couple of coats of varnish.

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Ha!

Sure I have a suggestion. Get some sandpaper, stick your hand in there, and rip all the flesh off the back of your knuckles, just like I did!!! :D Tell you what buddy, it was easier to redo the entire interior of the hull that it was to sand the inside of the RPS.

That said, I did get a nice surface in there but it was not a cakewalk. I might suggest an old refinishers trick if you have the courage to try it. Not everyone is willing to do this, but for those that do, they find the technique to work quite well. Have you ever used broken glass to remove surfaces? Break a pane of glass into pieces you can pick up and use them as little scrapers. The broken edges are really sharp for a few minutes use. The irregular shapes allow you to access areas on a piece that are tough to get at. Yes, wear gloves, yes you risk getting a cut on your finger, but the technique might surprise you as to how effective it is. Depending on the pressure you apply, you can cut material away, and then with a lighter touch, smooth the surface to a finish that's ready for your glaze. If you've been in there, you know there is no way you're going to block sand every portion of the visible wood. This is how I got the details cleaned and ready.

Be patient. Do a good job. Drink good Bourbon when you're done. It takes the sting out of the knuckles!

Best of Luck My Friend,
Grady

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wow... I think I might dabble in a little of that. Did more block sanding of the door frames tonight. Its also really tough getting all of the louvers on the doors. Started with 50 grit then to 150 and then to 220. Have taken plenty of pics just need to figure out how to post them. Thanks for the info

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To get in between the louvers and the slats, I wrapped sandpaper around a putty knife.
You can also buy sandpaper that is sticky on one side so it will stick to a putty knife.

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Joe,

Now that you mention it, I bought some 3M sanding pads to help with the RPS. They are a pink color, available at the Depot and come in different grits. These may be good for this application.

BTW, our friend here is discussing finishing of the louvered doors. I am going to start a new thread re: these doors. I don't want to hijack this thread. Could you take a look at my post please?
Thanks,
Grady

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Great Tip Joe!! Thanks I almost resorted to an emery board. My fingers thank you

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Grady.. How is your teak comming out? any Pics?? I am finished sanding and ready for finish. I am now leaning toward Sikens natural... Hmmm??