---

my engine is 20 years old and looks like it has never been cleaned. The entire outside of the engine block has a layer of grime about an inch thick, not really:), and on all the wires i have tried using acetone which works well but i dont know how to reach down into all the lower parts of the engine or if there is a beter cleaner. I dont want to take the engine apart just to clean it but will if i have to.

---

I'm not sure what the best thing to use is, but I would be very careful using acetone as it will toatlly melt some plastic and rubber.

---

Acetone is to strong a solvent, that will affect plastic and the shield on your wires along with rubber hoses. Most engine manufacturers sell an engine degreaser that you spray on let it sit then wash off with water. I know that the Suzuki degreaser works very well. A much less harsh cleaner would be Simple Green.

---

Acetone does NOT like plastic, "Gunk" engine and parts cleaner....still the best one on the market, there are others but, nothing works as well as "GUNK".
mw

---

I second that vote on Gunk engine cleaner. just cover the intakes to the carbs with aluminum foil, spray the gunk on everywhere, let it sit for 20 minutes and hose it off. Some people say don`t use a forceful stream of water, and thats ok with a not too dirty motor, but I have used a pressure washer and Gunk on really dirty antique motors without negative results. Just be careful to keep water out of the carbs, If you have a lot of varnish built up around the outside of the carbs spray that area with decarb spray. You will be surprised at how clean your motor will look with very little effort.

rich

---

After you get your engine good and clean, spray the engine, (block and assessories, not the exterior) with a spraycan of clearcoat from the auto parts store. Then it will shine and look like new. Its an old used car dealers and detailers trick.

Rich

---

Binkie
I'm curious about the clearcoat...........what part of the engine would you spray it on? Would you have to be careful to not get it on any of the moving parts to make sure they wouldn't stick?

---

I just try to keep the clearcoat off the wires, not that it will damage them, but eventually the clearcoat will dry out and peel on the wires. If the engine is clean, it will make the paint shine like new. It won`t make any parts stick. When you see that clean and shiny engine in a 5 year old car on the lot, its because the cleaned and clearcoated it. Works good and makes plastic parts shine too.

rich

Rich

---

If your boating is in saltwater, leave that grime on...Its protecting the metal and seals from salt corrosion. It won't really hurt anything.

If you introduce strong chemical cleaners and water, there is a possibility of stripping areas that should remain lubricated and damaging electrical connections and other components. Just my 2 cents...

---

This is the best thing that I have found for any engine and componants. It's pretty pricey, but well worth it. H&M Corrosion Block which is a state-of-the-art, anti-corrosion/lubricant compound that has been specifically designed for marine use. It is a clean, clear, ultra-thin fluid compound which leaves a non-greasy atmospheric barrier to protect metals. Because it leaves no gummy residue to trap moisture, lint, or dirt, Corrosion Block is perfect for protecting electrical systems, electronics, fishing tackle, and other gear aboard your boat from saltwater, moisture, corrosion, and rust. Boaters World and West Marine stockit. About $20.00 for a 12oz spray can.

---

Not sure how leaving the grime on a salt water motor is protecting it. The grime is mostly salt residue from operation in salt water, and is very corrosive especially to aluminum. If that theary is vaid, no sense flushing the internals either, mind as well give the motor a good covering of salt, both internally and externally.

---

Well, considering my motors have been operated in saltwater since 1989, have over 1200hrs and run great, I think I'm speaking from experience...In most cases, the "grime" is oil that has been sprayed on the powerhead every year for protection and yes there is some build up, which acts like a layer of protection, not salt residue. If that were the case my motors would have corroded away to nothing years ago...When that grime/lubrication layer is stripped or removed with powerful chemicals and water, the protection is removed. I also beleive the chemicals and water will find its way into power packs, wiring, inner workings under the flywheel and other sensitive components that require lubrication...Yeah, you can then reapply some protectent which is the same stuff you just removed but, that seems to defeat the purpose of cleaning the powerhead...If the motor(s) are running good why take a chance and introduce chemicals and water to an area, under the cowling which was designed to protect the powerhead from the elements??;)

This is just my opinion after speaking with mechanics in the Marine industry and friends who are fellow boaters...

"If that theary is vaid, no sense flushing the internals either, mind as well give the motor a good covering of salt, both internally and externally." -BINKIE

Binkie, Not sure what your trying to say with this comment?

---

One of the things that is good to do under the cowling is clean up dry, dusty, salty residue. Dry, flakey corrosion residue can be sucked into the air intake, and you know where it goes from there. Remember, there are no air cleaners on outboards.

I don't really do too much "detailing" under the cowling for looks. I use an old tooth brush and a crevice tool on my shop vacuum to clean as much as I can get. Then I use Corrsion Block and/or CorrsionX to protect areas that look like they need it.

Doug

---

this issue seems to have some controversy i have attached the pictures of the engine. the grime layer is not oily and is more like stickey dried up jelly i have also never heared of anyone adding a layer of craplike gunk to an engine for corosion, that is what the paint is for