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The Yamaha F70 I ordered in March finally arrived. The dealer was closed due to Covid and is swamped, so we have been given the option to install the F70 ourselves. He will sign the warranty. It is going on my 1974 Montauk. I have a pretty good understanding of the mounting issue from the site and we will go with 2 holes up. I dont see anything difficult with doing the install, we are working men and are restoring a classic car. I have removed the old outboard and plugged the holes where the lag bolts were.
Couple questions.
Is there a specific sealant that is best for using around the holes?
Any odd pitfalls to watch for during the install?
Going forward i will need some help from the experts on here regarding the prop selection. I am the guy who does all his fishing at 5500 ft elevation .

Thanks Joe

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Joe -

Just use Boat Life's Life Caulk.

For prop selection, you will want either 3" or 4" less pitch for 5500 feet of elevation.

Are you planning on running at sea level as well?

I would take advantage of Ken Reeves return policy at PropGods, get his advice and buy it from him.

If its not right you can go with another for a restock fee.

www.propgods.com

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I'll second Ken at Propgods. Send him an e-mail with all the details, elevation, engine, mounting location, etc. He's been spot-on the 3 times I've been to him.

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Since you have a Montauk 16, not a Montauk 17, I recommend you mount the Yamaha F70 3 cylinder 4 stroke outboard motor at "3 holes up." You will achieve faster holeshot, less draft, less drag, and better top end performance.

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I appreciate the input from group, I have learned a lot over the years.

Unlikely to use the boat at sea level.
It might be spring time before I can do the final prop test at my two main fishing lakes that are at approx 5500 feet.

Sounds like a no brainer to go with Ken for the prop.

Still wont believe i have the new outboard unill we get it loaded in the truck! Long time coming.

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Update
We got the F70 home , nice feeling after such a long wait.
Immediately ran into the problem of getting it out of the back of the truck. This is something to consider if you are doing your own install.
Once that was accomplished the car engine hoist worked great. Two lifting eyes on the power head.
Now the top mounting holes in the transom are in the correct position. Engine is two holes up. We ran out of time yesterday and I have not drilled the lower holes. No matter how many times I measure and look at that, it’s going to be close to the bottom of the splash well. Looks like Boston whalers bulletin of bending washers might come into play.

Now a question. When using the boat life caulk your not just sealing the transom holes, your kind of making a gasket between the transom and the mounting bracket? The transom curves slightly.

Thanks Joe

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Just seal the holes.

No need to seal the bracket.

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Joe I recommend you fill in the centerline splashwell through hull drain on your smirkless 16 footer. You do not want to have water flowing onto your brand new outboard motor trim/tilt assembly.

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You can seal the bracket. Will keep corrosion out of bracket. Put bolts on the inside of the transom nuts on outside on top holes. Get a aluminum transom mount plate for top holes. Bottom hole bolts on outside of boat and nuts on inside of transom. Torque but do not over tighten.
Archie