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Greetings! As i have posted, my 22 center console is in the middle of some medium cosmetic work and i'm reworking all the teak, which includes taking the doors apart as they were saggng and i wanted them to be right. All the dowels are broken so they need to come apart so i can fix them regardless. My question is twofold. I'm thinking of adding a piece of teak to the top of the console. Maybe an 1/2 wide piece, then add some teak cup holders etc. The only thing i plan on mounting to it is a GPS/Fishfinder which is on my christmas list (and i will be selling the two seperate ones i now have). So, has anyone else done something like this, or have some other suggestions for improving that area of the boat.

Duf B)

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Just to let everyone know, duf has the Super Console which might make a difference on suggestions.

duf,
Take a look at petemarkey's personal page and see his redo of the teak doors.
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...er_id=4304
He's not finished with them yet, but they do look beautiful.

I would use gorilla glue and new dowels to put the doors back together with.

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Duf,

I did the carpenter work for my brother in law Matt when we covered the top of his console with a piece of 1/2" thick teak. I beveled the aft edge to fit the sloped surface of the Montauk standard console. The other 3 edges were routed with a 1/4" round over. We left a 3/4" reveal between the inside of the plexiglass windshield and the edge of the teak.

We also built a teak shelf that was a few inches lower than the top of the windshield. The depthsounder and LORAN were mounted under the shelf and the compass was mounted on top of the shelf. The shelf had a lip whereby items placed on the shelf would stay on it through pretty rough going. It was a pretty fun project and Matt (as did I)really liked the way it looked on the boat. I am sorry I don't have pictures of the work. It was done before the digital age.

I have been contemplating doing something like that on the standard console of my Outrage some day.

Doug

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Doug, that sounds almost exactly what i was thinking about. I also thought i might run a boarder that was about 1/2 high all the way around to have a raised lip to prevent anything up top from sliding off in seas, and also to reinforce the teak so i wouldn't have to worry about it warping. Do you know if he had any issues with warping?

The prior owner had his radio, the GPS, the fishfinder and the compass all mounted on top of the console, and i thought besides looking good, it would be a nice way to cover up all the holes that are present as i will be moving the radio into a T-Top, and the new fishfinder/gps will be a combined unit. Any additional drilling i have to do in the future can be in the teak and not my console! :@

is a reveal the same as a gap??

I know some of the whalers have had new doors and such made out of teak. Anyone got the website of a place i could have a stock slab made, and then i could modify it to mount on the top of my console?
I do have Cedar Lakes website, but have not down any business with them.


Thanks

Duf

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As far as adding any teak trim to a console or other surface, look into a product called "permateak" on ebay. I have a Chris craft center console I am using for my 21 project and am going to use permateak trimmed with teak trim on the helm portion and the top portion of the console. its real teak veneer over 3m adhesive backing. Seller describes adhesion as "once you put it on a clean/smooth surface, you will have to destroy one or both to get it off. I plan on covering all my teak in many layers of "bristol finish". So it should look sharp for many,many years.

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Duf's quotes:



The 1/2" thick teak did want to warp. We attached the teak board to the console top at the four corners. The shelf unit was attached to the teak board before we attached the teak board to the console. Then the depthfinder and loran brackets were attached to the board. Once everything was fastened down, the board could not move.



This is one of the reasons he wanted to add the teak board to the top of the console- to cover up all the extra screw holes.



Yes, a reveal is the same as a gap. A reveal line of the desert tan between the windshield and the oiled teak kind of set the whole arrangement off a little. Also, the reveal line made it possible to wash out the area with a small brush or wash mitt, whereas, if one had tried to get it tight to the windshield, dirt could still get in the area and be seen through the windshield.



I am sorry, I don't know of any website, except maybe Specialty Marine. They seem to specialize in Whaler replacement wood, although the only wood parts I have seen to date have been mahogany parts. They advertise their line on Ebay.

I am looking forward to seeing your boat as it goes through different stages of work.

Doug

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Sounds great and as always thanks for the input. I will post some before and afters on my teak door i'm doing, plus all the teak work when its complete. I'm also going to do a before and after on the teak repair i'm planning on my gunwale, and i will do a before and after on my custom teak top! I'll just add all i just mentioned to this thread.

Duf B)

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here's a finished shot of the double drawer, the (next shot) the door which is apart, and the gunwale i plan on repairing.

Ah, and note the fire bottle

Joe, how do you add multiple pictures ?

Duf

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and the door apart. The small pieces top and bottom is where the dowels were broken off, i have a drill press, so the small pieces were easy to fix. Where they are broken off in the larger pieces is the challenge.

Duf

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here's what the side of Raggedy looks like now....... opps, no Raggedy. After much thought i decided to wait and name her whatever seemed right. Jeff, you were right, a lot of elbow grease!

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and the lower console door. Unfortunately, this style super console with the wheel on a 90, doesn't have the double door feature of the super console with the horizontal wheel, so working inside the console is not as accessable, and is really tough on your back.

Joe, definately plan on using Gorilla glue, stuffs fantastic. Just have to watch how much you use, as it sure does expand!

Duf

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duf,

No one can attach more than one photo at a time.

Actually, a post should only have one or two attached photos in it so it doesn't take too long to load the forum post...

Suggestion:
The majority of photos like this should go in the members personal page so people can view a members Whaler photos in one place rather than have to search the site for who knows how many different photos...

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ah, gotcha :p

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Duf,

I sure do like those Super Consoles. I would buy one of those and replace my Standard Console in a heartbeat.

My brother in law, Matt, has a 40" Super Console with the top mounted electronics box on his Outrage 25. It is really cool. Come to think of it, we added two teak trays to his Super console, one on each of the flat spots on either side of the helm. We built those trays with teak rails all the way around to keep small stuff from falling off. We also capped the top of his electronics box with teak. Then he mounted the biggest stainless steel Ritchie binnacle mount compass I have ever seen on top of that. It is really sweet looking.

The 35" Super Console would fit between the stanchions of my t-top. Now I use the space outside the console, but inside the t-top stanchions to store things, like collapsible chairs, garbage bag, etc. It is a little narrow between the gunwhale and the t-top, but still manageable.

Keep up the good work, you're doing great!

Doug

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Duf,

Can you measure the larger teak door, both the door and the frame? That might be the ticket to solving my console door problem.

I attached a teak board to the top of my new console. That way I only drilled 2 holes in my console top for wires. My GPS, Fishfinder and Radio are attached to the top of the console. I can check to see if I have a photo of the teak. I had planned on making a full electronics box, and had it built but decide I didn't like how it looked. I might go with a shelf idea if I ever redo my console.

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Kamie,

Since the door I recently acquired is sitting on the bench 8' away from the computer, I thought I would provide you with the dimensions I have.

Frame outside dimensions- 12 7/8" x 21 7/8"
Frame opening dimensions- 10" x 19"
The rough opening cut out in console should be 11" x 20"

Door outside dimension- 10 1/2" x 19 5/8"
The door has 14 louver slats inside the stiles and rails.

Doug

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Kamie, not at the house at the moment, but when i get back will check and see if my measurements match Dougs. Please by all means, send photo's when you have a chance as i'd really like to see another teak topped console in place.

Doug, will start a personnal page as Joe suggested as i have pictures from the time i purchased RA through its present state having the cosmetic work done.

On your T-top, did you install trim tabs? As soon as i pick my boat up and have the motor re-installed (guy doing the glass work on the boat in known as being super slow, but does the best work in Corpus) i plan on dropping it off to have a 5 X 7 T-top installed. Reading the threads on that Kamie i believe said something to the point, that anything less then 25' needed trim tabs once you installed a T-Top. did you need to install a set on your 22'?


Also, (all) what are thoughts on a 5 X 7 T-Top vrs 4 X 6? I think for the sun issue here 5 X 7 would be better, but sure are alot of 4 X 6's!


Duf B)

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Duf

I can only find photo's of the teak box / shelf I was going to install. if I can't find one of the current teak top, I will take new ones over Thanksgiving holiday.

The recommendation for trim tabs comes from Boston Whaler on the CPD site. I know from my 18, I wished I had them when I had the T-top as the boat would porpoise at speed with no way to stop it. Not sure if the 22's have that problem. They are nice to solve trim problems from wind, waves or just uneven loading of large passengers.

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Ok Kamie, here's what i have.

OD of door, 10 5/8's wide 19 5/8's long

Frame OD is 13" by 22"

Inside is 10 X 19

Frame may be off a tad as i am just lining things up on my work bench, so installed may be slightly different. If you need any other measurements, or measurements with photo's let me know. B)

Duf

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Duf, concerning your question quoted below:



I bought the boat with the t-top and trim tabs already installed. The t-top is 5x7 which is pretty large on a 22. Trim tabs really help in a wind that is crossing your course, especially from the forward, starboard or port corners.



I like the protection the 5x7 offers, but some people may think it is too large.

It is built rather low, which makes it easier to get into my carport. I would like to get it to fold down so I could get it into the shop, completely out of the sun. I may add some breakaway and hinge pins to the stanchions so I can fold it forward to clear the garage header.

Check out my personal page to see if you like the proportions relative to the boat.

Doug

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I added a photo of the teak board to my personal page. Looks pretty good and easier to screw down electronics. When I go to change them out, I can either fill the holes in the teak with plugs or get a new teak board and varnish it.

Duf,
Thanks for the measurements of the teak door. If your near the boat can you get a measurement of the rough opening? The rough opening for the larger console door on my console is 10 1/2 high by 26 wide.

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Kamie, my boat is at a boat builders having some work done, but just so happens i'm heading there to remove some teak so i can work on it at home. I'll get your measurements to you this evening.

Duf

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ok, here's what i have.

Left side louver door, opening is 20 1/2" X 11 1/8 opening
Right side louver door, opening is 20 1/4 X 11

Because you gave me a measurement of 10 1/2" high X 26" wide i thought you might be talking about the door under the helm. Anyway, i checked and mine is....

24 1/8" wide X 9 1/2 high"

I have to admit, the cutouts are very irregular, and i could have done a much better job! :(

Hope this helps, and oh by the way, who did you have make the teak pieces on your helm?

I've measured out two i need,

31 3/4 X 15" for the top of the console (helm)

35" X 6" for the front panel of the helm to replace the gauge backdrops.

Duf

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great glue, messy clean up. I used it when I re-built my pilot seat. The stuff expands like crazy. It was alot of work to remove the excess glue after it set up.If you do use it, don't use alot. Chrisg

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Chris, your absolutely correct. I have used it very sparingly, and it swells to epic portions. Works very well though, as i have been able to use a rough sandpaper grit and bring it down flush, and finish of with a lighter grip paper for a very fine finish. I'm gearing myself to play with it with the drill holes and misc voids i want to fill which is the prelude to the main even, which is using it to fill the cracks in my gunwales. That will be the deal breaker that i will consider the challenge.


Duf

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Thanks Duf,
Looks like I am custom building the door. Your right, the one I was talking about is the door under the helm.

I did all the teak work on my console with the exception of the doors themselves. I remade the door frames to cover the larger openings. The teak piece for the top, I glued two sections of teak together, routed, sanded and finished that last spring and cut the three gauge panels. At some point, I will turn my garage into a semi-real wood shop so I can make straight cuts :)

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Wow, i'm impressed. Ok, i'll give it a shot then. I contacted Bucks teak and will order 3 pieces of teak and drill, dowel and glue them together. The other piece i need for the guage area, i can get in a single piece. The job you did looks fantastic, hope mine comes out near as well! ;)

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Since I have limited tools, I have the shop where I buy my wood, plane the rough boards down to size and depending on the project square one edge. The other thing that is very handy is a orbital sander. oh yea, and practice, practice, practice. Depending on what I am doing, I will use clear pine to mock up the piece and then build the final with teak. Also be forgiving of yourself, I have trashed a couple of really nice; read expensive teak boards so always be willing to make mistakes.
In the end you will feel good about the job because you did it. Also if your going to count every penny and expect perfection, then pay somebody. If you ever see my boat in person you will see the mistakes, I will even point them out to you but I figure that means I can one day do it again, better. For now, the boat if for fun.

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Think i'll take your advice about the mock up, make an exact replica of what i want then go for the teak. B)

Duf