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I have a Suzuki Df90A on my Montauk that has been hard to start latest time.
Two new battery are installed and connections on battery cables are cleaned from oxides.
The motor only starts with both batterys connected. last saturday the motor stopped when running after a few minutes.
Couldn't start it after that. The solenoid clicks thought (both with one or two batteries)
I charged the batteries over the night and it started day after (only with both batteries)

I left it to the workshop now and they haven't found the problem with the motor stoping after a few minutes.

When leaving it to them we discussed bad electrical connection and also that the battery cables were very long and old (1997 from old yamaha motor which were installed before)
I talked shortly this morning with one of the guys from the workshop but forgot asking if they tried with new cables. He only said they still have the problem with motor stopping after about three minutes but he said it started even on one battery now, they are now waiting for support from Suzuki. They are a authorized Suzuki workshop and have good reputation.

Anyone who have had similare problems or any good ideas?

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If the battery cables were pieced together from 2 or more sets(common) that is probably your problem.

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They are one piece I’m pretty sure. But worth doubble check ofcourse.

The guy I talked to this afternoon said it was enough power to the motor, but the guy who had worked on the motor had left for the day. He will call me tomorrow morning.

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Keep us posted please.

I had a couple boats that they pieced together cables and as they corroded in the rigging tunnel it acted like the starter was going bad. If you have enough juice to the motor, your starter might be going bad.

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I’ll let you know

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Petrus - Note that engines come with a 6 foot battery cable. If your batteries are in the console, it is highly probable there is a hidden splice in the tunnel. I had one that i found after fighting starting issues for a season.

Disconnect the battery cables and pull them out. Visually check to see if there is electrical tape hiding a splice.

Replace the battery cables with the proper gauge cable and then troubleshoot.

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Yes, that sounds reasonable. I just talked to the mechanic working on the motor. He cleaned the conections and motor starts on one battery, but stops everytime after about 3 minutes an 10 seconds.
He has changed camchaft sensor, some other sensor I think he said and the charge regulator. Nothing helped. he didn' think the cables are the problem as thera are enough poower to pull the starter. But he wasn't fond of the quick conections on the battery, even though he didn' thinkt that could be the problem.
The work shop is at our summer place, I will go there tomorrow morning and talk to them, see if I can pull the cables out.

I think we did that when the new motor was installed. It was in late december and a lot of frozen wet sand in the channel from previous owner( bought the boat in october) Remember I had to warm up the sand to be able to pull uot all the cables. Think I pulled out everything as it was twisted, and don't remember there were any joints. But worth checking again ofcourse.
What size should it be on the battery cables, is 35 squre millimeters enough or should I go for 50?
Think I will change them anyway. What is the power on a starter?

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If it is starting fine then I would not worry about the cables. Your mechanic should be able to diagnose it, I assume he has the proper equipment to do so.

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If the engine starts then stops it is not the battery, rather something computer or sensor or thermal (engine warms up and a electrical connection is broken.

The key to troubleshooting I have learned is NOT to throw parts at it. Take the time to trace the engine operation and eliminate components.

Most mechanics want quick solution (throw parts). Help him understand he should slow down and not rush.

This will save you kroner in the end.

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When you say the engine starts....

is the idle smooth? What RPM?

Does the engine stall like it runs out of gas, stutter or just cut out, quick and instant?

(doing web research for ya)

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Idle is smooth.
Engine just stops, no stalling.
Think the idle was at correct rpm. Didn’t look at what rpm, it was running smooth and quiet.
Engine runs smooth like it shuold at speed until it dyes “quick and instant”
Found the original cables. They are about 3 meters.
Thank for trying to help.
The fuel bulb? Is very hard. Don’t remember it is that normally when stopping the engine.

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Talked to another mechanic, he thought it could be the cables- the engine can stop if the bateey doesn’t get enough charging he thought.
But in that case it wouldn’t start afterwards, if there isn’t some kind of built in function/protection that stops the engine in case battery doesn’t deliver correct power?

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Any error messages on the gauge?

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Again, if he is an authorized Suzuki mechanic , he should have the diagnostic equipment and not be throwing parts at it. A good mechanic would put a new sensor and if that is not the case, switch it back out.

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I don’t know, I assumed not. The mechanic working on it was not there today.
I will have to find out on Monday.
Left the new cables (original) at the work shop. They are just to short to go through the tunnel, but probably works to test them straight on the deck.

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I hope so. But my experience from diagnostics on cars is that it can tell you what fails but not which part causing it.

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No, there are no error messages on the gauge.

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Solved,
Check valve in fuel bulb was broken. Causing engine to stop.
Battery seletor/switch was corroded inside (bad quality) -caused dificulties to start the engine.

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Glad to read you are back on the water again!

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Me to, Thanks for trying to help.
Glad it wasn’t any serious damage inside the engine. Feels more safe now to use it.

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Had nothing to do with the engine....glad to hear. I would look for a new mechanic however, faulty primer bulb should have been checked first as it is the first common failure item in the fuel system besides a clogged pickup screen(not as common).

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Actually I asked them to check the primer bulb as It was strange that it was that hard after engine stopped and it would be easy to change. Also I remember that it felt strange at one time but engine worked fine then and I didn’t think much more about it.
The battery switch/selector, they found out them self, but we talked about bad ground and /contact/cables from the start.
I think the reason it took this time was that the mechanic “manager” had vacation last week.
Anyway the insurance covered almost everything, so I’m happy with that.

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Follow up,
This summer when launching the boat it didn't start . So pulled it up and took it to the workshop again. After some discussion we ended up changing the battery cables and cable lugs. This finally seemed to be the issue. Now it works :).
Didn't have to pay anything for this.

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Did they test the battery and the cables for conductivity or just replace them.

How do you store the batteries over the winter? Did you connect it to a trickle charger (battery maintainer)?

Good to know you are back on the water.

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I think they just replaced them.
I store the batteries in the basement at least 15 degrees celcius and charge them before storing. Also charged them after winter. They are only two years old.
The cables were old 1997.