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I have just acquired a Revenge 22 which is in need of alot of TLC. It came with a 2005 VMax 225 HPDI mounted on an aluminum extension of unknown manufacture. This engine screams and is way too much for me so I am looking at re-powering. I would like to get on plane but do not need to fly. I operate in open sea in Newfoundland so really flat days are few. Can anyone recommend a horespower range and leg length required for this boat.

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Max is 230hp and shaft length is 25" The Vmax might be a 20" shaft and hence why it is on a jackplate. Do you have a pic of the setup? I would say a 150 might be good, not sure how a 115 would work.

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Original config was twin omc 90's and in 2012 the Vmax was fitted but never used. Boat shrink wrapped and pushed into a backyard where it sat until last week when we rescued it.

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If you are looking light and fuel economy I would get a Yamaha 4 Stroke 200. The inline 4 cylinder.

Your setup is for sure a 20" shaft on a 25" transom. If it were me I would remove that extension. remove the dam on the transom and put a 25" shaft on that transom. In sloppy water that motor's cowling will be going under water.

It is not a proper setup.

With that said I owned a 22 Outrage and never felt like it was over powered with a 225 Evinrude 2 stroke. It was just enough to handle the boat. It is not a light boat. If me I would not get smaller than 200. That is not a light boat. It is heavy and solid.
Archie

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I have the exact same hull and did something very similar. Mine is a 1979 22' Revenge with the "self draining" low cut transom. I installed a 10 inch "Bob's Hydraulic Jackplate". My reasoning was to prevent water from entering the boat when rock fishing/drifting. The slightest wake would leave passengers with wet feet. I have a customized rail system surrounding the the transom and gunnels (left a walkthru by the cuddy) that leaves a rail 37" above the deck vs. the 17" or so original gunnel height. I have a splash board removable from my rail to prevent the water intrusion. It has got to scare the heck out of you telling folks to "......HANG ON......" when firing up. That extension is not a jackplate and looks a hybrid Armstrong bracket. However, the Armstrong bracket supposedly leaves positive flotation similar to a Whaler Drive. The issue may be in motor height and or extra weight in the cuddy. The hull rating for horse power is 240hp. My boat has been dry since the major renovations and I will be following this link for pointers. I replaced my original 1981 235hp (2 thirsty 5) Johnson outboard with a 200hp HO Etec. To move your hull (and after chatting with several resources including Lockemans in Detroit) the minimum hp would be 175hp to comfortably to manage the boat. I would play with sand bags in the cuddy area and see if that works. Also, there was a formula some one on the site offered of raised inches of height per inch of set back. From the looks of the picture......the height measurement is in relationship to the cavitation/anti ventilation plate. It appears to be level with the bottom of the hull. Even with out the extension, the motor should be higher up.

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Wow! That is one hell of a botch job but looks easy enough to bring back to stock. I do not have a brochure near me...what is the minimum HP rating for a 1981 22'.My friend has a 22' Eastern(Lobster type boat) with a 90hp OMC and that thing did low 30's.

MG56 was talking to me last week about 20" shaft engine. He is in New Hampshire so might be a good match

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It is a total botch and hence my desire to remove the whole kit.

Fear now is with the holes for original twin mount and now holes for so called bracket if the transom has been compromised and will need to be opened out and rebuilt.

I have a Etec 175 available but it is also only 20" leg and a etec 115 with a 25" leg.

Project is just getting bigger and bigger !!!!

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They do make extensions for the lower unit. You can fill those holes with wood dowls and epoxy. make them a little shorts and fill beveled outside and inside hole with thickened epoxy. Then fair over and paint or gelcoat. Since your old holes were twin you will have fresh news holes for you outboard. I think the 175 is minimum you want to pout on there
The boat was designed to allow water that washes over the transom to wash right back out.
I never had a problem with water coming over the transom and that fishing in Galveston bay and off shore in Texas. I have the old Evinrude two stroke on the back too.
Archie

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I might beg to differ on a total "botch" job. All those "throwing stones" please Google search "Engine Brackets Boston Whaler". *Another Whaler club has quite a defining article with their use, installation, types, etc..... Unless you have fished and operated the self bailing series of the Revenges and Outrages of that era.......water entry very annoying. I designed my railing and my jackplate so I can manually remove/raise the splash board in case of an emergency. I believe this set up is workable with the correct outboard height, length, weight displacement. From the picture (I would like to see more photos including the interior) it looks like quite a bit of work and thought went into it. I cannot assess quality without more info of material thickness, welds, mounts, etc..... I would say if the bracket mounting bolts are thru bolted into the aluminum splash board inside the transom.....pretty decent install.

*I am not sure of club rules referring naming other Whaler Clubs so being conservative

edit: Acassidy, you have a taller transom than the one pictured on your personal page

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I was referring to when I owned a 1984 22 Outrage when talking about my experience in that size of boat.

Google "Whaler Outrage 22 brackets" and look at the height of the outboards and the shaft lengths. Look at the images. I think the issue here is not the splash well but the bracket and motor height setup.

He may be able to get that set up to work with a jack plate and a longer shaft motor. But the way it is now the outboard will be too low. That bracket is mounted too low. but was put there to accommodate the short motor.
Archie

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Max HP rating is 240hp
https://www.whalercentral.com/userpho...lbum_id=57

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If the engine bracket is beefy enough you could probably fabricate an adapting plate for engine height. Before anything else we really need more info on the entire set up and the relationship of the cavitation plate to the bottom of the boat. I sent back a manual adjustment jackplate (I forget the manufacturer) because even though the literature stated "rated xxxxxlbs. and 250hp was way too flimsy for my liking. I believe the consensus is to install the motor at the correct height instead of getting a lesser hp outboard as a solve all.

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I would remove everything and try the 115 e-te and see if it fits your needs.

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Before doing anything, why not run the boat as is for a season and assess the situation.

While it is not the cleanest setup, it may work. The setback bracket and splashwall give you more usable deck space than the OEM setup.

Remember, the sea state off of Newfoundland is not necessarily the calm waters of the mid-atlantic states and the coast of Florida. If the spash dam has outward opening doors, why get rid of it?

You don't have to go fast if you have a high speed boat.

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I have a 1979 Revenge v-22. It is powered amply by a 4 stroke suzuki / Johnson 225 HP. I use it exclusively on the ocean, and my personal opinion is that 200 would be my minimum for this hull with cabin.

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I have a 1985 Revenge 22 with a Mercury 200.

Just because you have the "extra" power doesn't mean that you have to use it. I agree with Phil, run it and see how you like it.