Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: 1970 katama 16 Repowering

Posted by Woodzie65 on 09/10/18 - 3:24 PM
#1

Hello everyone one ,I’m new to the boat world and have always wanted a Boston whaler so I searched and found one it came with an 1974 Evinrude 85 and I decided To re-power it with a 1997 Mercury mariner 90hp my question is I took it to the marine shop and they’re telling me they want to order a new control box for it as the motor I bought was set up for a tiller but I want to keep the original stainless steel control and the tilt and trim switch on the council shouldn’t the boat mechanic be able to keep that without replacing to a new control box. Thank you

Posted by Joe Kriz on 09/10/18 - 4:32 PM
#2

Your stencil # of 39914 would make it a 1969 year model.
Your boat is listed here.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=102

Sounds like you have an older Morse control box but don't know for sure without a photo.
See the Morse MT2 and MT3 here and let us know.
http://www.whalercentral.com/download...?cat_id=16

If they are installing the used motor, you may want to have it installed in the proper bolt holes.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=82

The old method of mounting the motor all the way down is no longer practical.

Edited by Joe Kriz on 09/10/18 - 4:34 PM

Posted by Woodzie65 on 09/10/18 - 7:36 PM
#3

Thank you for the links , it looks to me I have the mt3 controls ,I’m still trying to figure out the picture uploading .

Posted by Finnegan on 09/10/18 - 9:58 PM
#4

I have a Whaler with the classic Morse control and 1997 Mercs, so maybe I can help.

As you indicated, you have two choices - keep the Morse control, or buy a new Mercury control with the power trim button in the handle.

If you keep the Morse, you will have to buy new engine end fittings for the throttle/shift cables. Mercury's are different from OMC. The action inside the control will also have to be reversed, a labor expense. In addition, you will need a Mercury specific power trim switch panel which will plug into the new engine key switch ignition harness at the console. You will need a mercury ignition harness no matter which control you go with. The OMC power tilt switch will not work.

If keeping the "classic look" is not a priority, your other option is a new Mercury control, and this may actually be less expensive when labor costs are considered.
I recommend this one, an older design, but more compact and better looking than the new larger one. You can find them new on Ebay. You can also see the key switch ignition harness you will need.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/l...TE=/?ref=1

With this, a separate trim panel switch is not needed, but new control cables will be needed. I recommend Sea Star Solutions XTREME. They are super smooth working and the best you can buy.

Good luck with which ever solution you select.

Posted by Woodzie65 on 09/11/18 - 4:35 AM
#5

Thank you very much guys this forum is awesome ! I prefer to go with the classic look , I will go on eBay and get those other parts and have that installed and take the Morse control off . Thank you I have been a little nervous because I am not boat guy .The knowledge on this forum makes me feel a lot better about my purchase.

Posted by Woodzie65 on 09/12/18 - 7:26 AM
#6

So I’m having my old 1974 Evinrude starlight 85hp taken off my boat and the
Newer 1997 Mercury/mariner 90hp put on and the mechanic call me this morning and says he needs to ether put two lag bolts or cut a access panel to put the two bottom bolts in cuz it’s at 8” I did send him the pic of the transom mounting cut sheet that Mike linked with the green yellow red holes and shows the bolts with the half washers . Is this guy not know how to mount a motor?

Posted by Woodzie65 on 09/12/18 - 7:36 AM
#7

So are stainless steel lag bolts not recommended there was two conflicting comments in that posting for mounting to the transom so I’m confused unfortunately Boston whalers are not a common boat up here in Minnesota

Posted by Phil T on 09/12/18 - 9:43 AM
#8

STOP. Do not have him cut anything.

Older engines did not use the now-standard BIA hole pattern.

Print out the diagram and have him drill the GREEN holes.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=82

The engine should be mounted ONE hole up at a minimum. See
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=106

If the installer resists and does not take your instruction, stop. Find another installer. This is not rocket science but some staff are too stubborn to listen to knowledgeable instructions.

Posted by Woodzie65 on 09/12/18 - 11:09 AM
#9

I just talk to him he read all the information I sent him and came on here and read the threads he understands what has to be done we are on the same page. Thank you for your time guys.