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I just bought a 1998 Outrage 17 that has a 1998 150 hp Evinrude Oceanrunner on it. What's the recommended (best) oil for this engine?

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I believe in staying within the same brand of motor, therefore, Evinrude oil.
You have a couple of choices.
http://shop.evinrude.com/products/343...4/2-stroke

XD 30 or XD 50
The XD 50 is a blend and will probably be my choice next time I purchase oil for my older Evinrude.

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We've got a Yamaha 2-stroke 90 and had a bottle of Yamalube that lasted a while.
I hesitantly got a big bottle of Quicksilver in a pinch,
(Although I was prepared to spend twice as much for the Yl)
and poured it in the side oiler.
Looked the same blue consistency...
At the time there was a 25 mile round trip work run,
and I was waiting for the engine to seize up.
It didn't after the first run or the 2nd week.
I've finished my 2nd bottle now,
and am a firm believer in all tcw3 oils are somewhat equal.
The engine only smokes a bit at first start and runs clean even at idle.

I'm so cheap now about this new freedom,
if I find a jug at a swap meet or garage sale for a deal,
I'll pick it up.
Typically $5-10 for an unopened gallon,
dollars for anything less.
So far I've collected new gallons of Kawasaki jetski oil,
havoline and one of pennzoil all new.
Usually it's leftovers from guys who've sidegraded to 4-strokes.

The 17 planes at 4k and a cruise is 3400-3700,
so we're not heavy on the throttle only on occasion.
If the engine dies I'll make sure to make an update!
TP

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My old Evinrude used to like Quicksilvers synthetic 2 stroke oil. I experienced less smoke at startup and less plug fowling or stalling when just idling around for extended periods.It is TC3 rated and can be had for a decent price at Menards stores if you have one in your area, otherwise West Marine carries it.

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Thanks everyone,

I'm not looking for a cheap alternative. I'm looking for the best oil for the engine. When I had a Merc Optimax, I used only the Optimax/DFI oil. It looks like XD-100 or XD-50 is where I want to focus. Any mechanics care to chime it?

Roy

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1) Read the owner's manual to find out the oil requirements for your motor.
2) Buy any brand or type oil that meets those requirements.

Chances are this will lead you to TCW-3 oil. Use any one of them - it really does not matter in the slightest to longevity or reliability. You may find one brand smokes more or less than others (although I doubt it) so if you care about that, buy the one that smokes less.

Tim

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I am in the Joe Kriz camp. I try very hard to use original manufacturers oil, or if not available, original specs. I once "cooked" an old 2 cycle chainsaw broken in and run with 32/1 Echo oil mix by going with one of the "new, super good, best ever....yah, yah, yah" synthetics advertised to add to 2 gallons of gas (50/1 or something like that). I generally try not to mix different manufacturers of oils for my vehicle.
Garris

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Addendum to my earlier message:

3) Mix the oil and gas per the motor manufacturer's requirements as described in the manual.

Garris, it does not surprise me at all that using an incorrect mixture fried your chainsaw. Not a good idea no matter what oil you are running!

Years ago, my Dad had bought gas but was going to add oil "later" and a few days later sent me out to mow the lawn with our 25:1 Lawn-Boy, having forgotten all about it. I seem to recall getting blamed for it anyway - and I got to learn how to replace a head gasket!

Tim

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Marketing is a powerful tool!

Your old carbureted Evinrudes don't have much in common with the post-2001? BRP/bombardier owned evinrudes.
Sure the etecs and similar injected 2-strokes with tighter tolerances may benefit from the oils designed for that technology, but a relatively inefficient gas/oil burner like a 1998 v-6 was made in the time when tcw3 standardization was implemented.
https://www.nmma.org/certification/oi.../oil/tc-w3 (Link help?)

Whose to know if the older carbys may like a less refined oil similar to when the designs were new?
Oil choice will always be an arguing point, but wasting money unnecessarily may be for your peace of mind not the engines!

TP (25+yr boat/auto mechanic ;) )

(changed abbreviated year to full 4 digit year per guideline #1 at the top of this page)

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My point (if ever I have a point) was that some of the "new technology" states that the blend and quality of some of the synthetic oils supersedes previous ratios, and as far as I am concerned a bunch of crap. With any of the two stroke engines the manufacturers give specs and generally supply a product to use. Getting the new, evolutionary, top of the line, expensive add mix products does not necessarily translate to better for your motor. If your motor was broken in and is used to the, let's say, XD 30. I would stick with it. Some of these counter people that sell this stuff just follow what they have been told by distributors.
Garris

ps: Popped the head and unstuck the piston and it surprisingly ran (is still running). I just heard the sound and new something was not right. I shut it down and tried pulling on the string and nearly trashed my elbow. I am surprised that in 1993 some one did not hear my "OH SHxT!!!!" That must have ranged the Western States.

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I agree with Tim TCW-3 is mandated by the government per Government Specs. If you have EVER done work for the Gov't, a spec is a spec and they DO NOT DEVIATE (no matter how much extra work or money it takes!) All of the name brands will meet this qualification. The off brands state that they are compliant but who knows how stringent government testing is on oil! LMAO!I have twin one 1996 and one 1997, 115hp Ocanrunners. I purchase a name brand typically, Pennzoil, Valvoline ect.

Garrris, sounds like you had trouble with a stuck piston?? On what?

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Earlier in the thread I was referring to a chainsaw that "froze" that used a high end synthetic oil that was current within specs per the can and salesman (Did not give an exact ratio just an add to gallon whatever.....hard to remember from 20 years ago). I just used it instead of my standard two stroke oil (Echo was my oil of choice....instead went to some new Stihl product that was pushed by the chainsaw shop). Echo oil lets you decide the ratio's. I would break my chainsaws in at 20 to one or so and then run them at 33 to one. 1 & 1/2 gln gas to 1 pint. The chainsaw shop got an ear full but insisted not their problem. My outboard motors already have a built in mix ratio but if I am can mixing......I am sticking at 33/1 (some recommend 40 or 50 to 1) but I prefer a carbon build up over scored cylinder walls.
Garris

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From what I understand Johnson/Evenrude of that era states 50/1 ratio. According to the Johnson Techs but I have based that on dealer recommendations. I carry additional plugs so if I were to ever foul one out I can adapt;o)

I would prefer no scorched pistons/burnt rings myself!

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I have 4 gallons of oil from 1985. Can I use it in my 1985 90 Evinrude?

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According to the "newest" information from a NAPA sales rep, "oil will lose it's viscosity ratio over time"....

I think its a bunch of whoohaaa put out by the oil industry to sell more oil changes, although I do not have empirical evidence to the contrary it sounds like a bunch of hog wash to me. They never stated that in the past.

Here in the North East they are now saying that the increase in gas prices is subject not to the cost of a barrel, no it's subject to adjusting the stock over to summer vs. winter blend. NEVER heard that one until this season!

Heating oil has risen from 1.39/gal to 1.70/gal although, as we all know there is a glut in the oil market.

*#$%#!

I say if the gallons are unopened they should still be at the same spec as required in 1985 for 1985 standards? Anyone else got some input here?!?

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Gasoline is a refined petroleum hydrocarbon derived from the same crude as your 2-cycle oil. We are all familiar how gas breaks down or alters composition over time (be sure to add your stabilizer in the fall...). It isn't unreasonable to me to think the oil might as well, although probably much more slowly.

2-cycle oil from 1985? I Maybe, but it seems like a penny wise / pound foolish route to go.

Perhaps John Martin will chime in here. He knows a lot more about this stuff than I.

Dennis

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I would love to hear other opinions!
I totally agree with Dennis conclusions.

But our "unleaded gas" is a highly refined in comparison.

I think we may all agree, With the introduction of "ethyl gas", the breakdown is much accelerated as compared to " leaded gas" which was available in the model years which were referred to.

In this area all we have available, from the pump, is gas laced with alcohol which =increased phase separation and the alcohol attracts moisture.
How does that correspond to the "new two cycle oil?

Guess my question is.... Why in the last 2 years has oil had propensity to go "bad"? Where did they come up with that?

I have utilized a product by E-ZOI, "PHASE-OUT". Its an anti phase separation additive, available through Winn's dealers, and you can check it out on the site. I have had good results with it as a fuel supplement.

Love to hear a chemist chime in, I am, honestly, I am very curious in everyone's input on this subject and understanding the change, what this "new phenomenon" all about?!?