---

I need some advice on how to remove a bad trim motor from my 1980 johnson 115.

Thanks

---

I had a bad trim motor a couple of years ago on my Johnson 90 and tried to replace it but got stuck at several places.
I took it to my local boat mechanic and it was the best $350.00 I ever spent.
Good Luck.

---

The challenge in removing the trim motor on your 1980 J115 will be whether or not you can first remove the static tilt pin and tilt rod pin. Usually these two pins seize up to the brackets so tight that the only way to remove them is to cut them off with a sawzall. If you can remove these two pins on your motor bracket, then you tilt the trim assembly back to gain access to remove the trim motor 4 mounting bolts. be careful of the ground wire and disconnect the trim unit wire from inside the back of the motor powerhead and feed it out through the mid-section and bracket. Also, look at " JohnRude Tips" (google the phrase) for a thorough step-by-step with picture tutorial (written for 1991 and newer V4 crossflow motors, but contains enough data for a good DIY person to work with on an older V4 motor.)

---

If you have to tap the pin out with a hammer be careful about flaring the outer edges of the pin you are driving. Use a bolt or similar on the center of the pin. If the pin flares and gets stuck in the bushing.....tight like a weld. Back the castings if you can and plenty of anti seize (I prefer TriFlow with teflon).
Garris

---

Are you sure the trim motor is bad? I thought mine was, but after I bled the system and filled it with new fluid (bled it again) it started working.

---

I am going to try to further diagnose but the motor was getting pretty tired last season, and my last cold weather putting it stop going up all together.

I think I am at the point of fix the trim, or upgrade to a newer motor. It has put in 35 years of hard labor with very little problems, but the uneasiness of waiting for the next issue starts to wear on you.

---

I replaced my trim motor last year (1985 90hp). Nothing was frozen and it was fairly simple. The motor had leaked and was completely corroded inside.

---

Walt, did you use any websites as a guide?

---

I bought the complete service manual when I got the motor. Contact me pm and I will send you copies the pages.
Also, check the Evinrude parts web site. The exploded diagrams will give you a good idea how things go together.

http://shop2.evinrude.com

---

Update:
To access the third trim motor bolt I ended up hoisting the entire motor off of the boat, but I also decided to loosen the tilt tube nuts so I could allow the transom mount bracket to have a little play. Once I did that I was able to just snake the entire tilt/trim assembly out. This made it very easy to rebuild, clean up, and change the hydraulic fluid.

I haven't tested my work or reinstalled it at this point. Looking for a little warmer weather to come back through MD this week.

---

Update:
Finally got everything back together today. Key take away from this job.

1- removing the motor from the transom is key, but loosening the tilt tube to spread the transom bracket is ultimately what is going to allow that unti to come free from the boat.

2- when disassembling the old trim motor be aware that there is a coupler between the trim motor and the hydraulic pump. It can very easily fall out when doing this job and can be a pain in the rear to find. Replacement couplers are almost $45, which is crazy.

3. If you are going to replace an old trim motor, then you might as well replace the power cables running from he solenoid to the battery as well, especially if they are the same age as the trim motor.

4. Scotch loosens the back muscles after you are done dealing with all this awkward and heavy equipment.

See ya on the Chesapeake.

-G