Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Trim/Tilt issues on 2012 40hp Mercury Four Stroke

Posted by 2012whaler13SS on 11/28/14 - 4:32 PM
#1

Good Evening,

While out on my 2012 130 SS, I noticed that I was unable to trim the engine up while I was up on plane. I backed down and still was unable to raise the engine. Once I took the engine out of gear the trim/tilt started working fine. I put the engine back in gear and noticed the engine would lift a few degrees then just stop, but I could hear the trim/tiltt motor working. I took the boat out of gear, raised the engine and then put it back in gear and noticed the thrust from the prop was forcing the engine to go back down. basically, with very little force being pushed against the engine, the trim/tilt will not work. I looked for obvious signs of fluid leaking and do not see any...any thoughts? Since the boat is two years old, I am not sure if this issue would be covered under warranty.

Does this sound like an easy fix?

(corrected name to 130 Super Sport)

Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/28/14 - 5:08 PM

Posted by EJO on 12/01/14 - 1:07 PM
#2

fluid might not be leaking if you don't have enough fluid. but it sounds like the trim-pump is gone as it can't overcome the force enacted on it when the engine is in gear.

Posted by Finnegan on 12/01/14 - 1:42 PM
#3

As a lifetime Merec owner, my guess is that it is simply the electrical bullet connections under the cowling. If neither the control handle switch or the switch on the engine work, or work intermitently, that would be your clue.

In particular, look at the heavy green and blue wire bullet connections. Pull apart all of these bullet trim connectors, use a little WD 40 to clean up, and re-connect. Some of the connections are blue or green with white stripe. Service all, and your problem should be over.

Posted by saumon on 12/01/14 - 4:12 PM
#4

If you hear the trim pump working at all time when you activate the switch but the engine is going down against prop trust, I suspect it isn't an electrical problem but rather hydraulic.

In this case, the usual suspect could be the manual release valve that wasn't completely closed, or with a busted o-ring. It couls also be any seal inside the pump that give up.

Anyways, your engine being a 2012, I'd simply bring it to a dealer for warranty work.