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Hey guys,
Moving on with my new boat and reading all the posts here, I am sure my motor is setting too deep.
It's all the way down on transom, with a level looks like maybe anti-cavitation plate 1" below keel.
1996 GLS 13' Sport, 1996 40hp Johnson 2 stroke.

I am going to move 3 holes up today hopefully before going out tomorrow.
I have read using the tilt of the trailer to jack the motor up.

I was more comfortable thinking of tilting the trailer forward so the push on the bottom of the motor with a floor jack is more vertical with the angle of the transom being 20 degrees.

So, I took a short 2x4 and cut 2 blade widths wide slot 3/4 way through board on my table saw.

I was going to put that on the bottom of the skeg (fin below prop) and then use a floor jack to jack the motor up while wife steadies it. using the floor jack also puts us both close together so we can clearly communicate moving and stopping :-).

I wanted to double check and make sure this is what I should be pushing up on?

I'll loosen bottom bolts and remove and re-insert top bolts one aligned with holes in bracket.

I think this 40hp weighs about 185lbs, so should be a pretty straight forward move.

I was going to use 3M 4200 to reseal the through holes.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

Best regards,
Doug

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Block the wheels.
Lower the tongue of the trailer all the way down with the jack.
Lower motor till vertical.
Block motor skeg on ground.
Loosen bottom bolts (in slots)
Remove top bolts (Have buddy hold motor still)
Raise tongue jack till holes line up
Recaulk top holes and reinsert bolts. Caulk and tighten nuts
Caulk lower bolts and nuts, tighten

DO NOT use 4200. Use a SEALANT

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Ok Phil,
I'll use the trailer jack method.

If not 4200, are you talking Life Caulk, Butyl Caulk (Dicor RV Roof Sealant)?
I've been reading for 2 days and the best I could decifer was 4200 and not 5200. Definitely not Silicone.

I just called my Johnson Dealership and they said GE Silicone Caulk?

Your advice please.

Thanks,
Doug

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I like your plan using the floor jack, puts you both at the engine. You could even have the wife operate the jack while you steady the engine, that allows you to concentrate on watching the engine move and not get cross ways. Should be very easy job with just 185 lbs.

I raised my 570 lb Yamaha last year using a hoist, not that easy by yourself.

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Names of marine sealants include:

Boat Life Life Caulk
3M 101 Sealant
West Marine Marine Sealant

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Thanks Men,
After measuring another couple times, I ended up going 2 bolts.
My anti-cavitation plate is 1 3/4 inches above keel.
We used the trailer tilt method, worked fine. Engine really didn't try to move sideways much.
I did use my 2x4 slotted board to put the skeg down into.
I was not sure that skeg had that much strength, but no problem.

I used some Butyl caulk I had on hand. Once I test tomorrow I will clean up and reseal with a marine sealant.

I'll be interested to see how it performs. I thought the steering was a little heavier than my Nephews 15 foot Sport, but I thought it was just because his is like a 2010.

Will report back, thanks for the assistance.

Best regards,
Doug

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Ok,
1996 GLS 13' Sport, 1996 Johnson 40hp 2 stroke.
Moved the engine up 2 bolts
I took the boat out today.
I thought there was an improvement; steering smoother and less spray off the side of the motor.
The negative side was at idle up to 2,000 rpm's there was a shutter/vibration through the boat like the motor was not as solidly braced with the transom as it was when all the way down.

I checked the bolts when I got back to the dock and maybe got 1/4 turn more on them. They did not seem loose at all.

Was I suppose to put a block or anything to fill in the area the bracket is now above the transom?

If no explanation and solution to vibration, I will be putting motor back to previous position.

Any input is appreciated.

After link/sync procedure, I am still seeing a dead spot in the throttle response. Not sure if someone installed incorrect throttle cam, something sticking in the carbs or a bad throttle cable/control box.

I am going to pull the breather off the carbs and make sure butterflies are opening and closing smoothly as wife moves throttle.

Best regards,
Doug

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I have to disregard all testing above.
I switched to a 6 gal tank that came with the boat.
Something was wrong with the pickup tube because I noticed new bulb was not getting hard when priming. I went on with the testing, but took tank apart this morning, blew everything out with my air compressor and now tank primes correctly.
Tank malfunction could have been starving mid-range and causing motor to idle poorly which could have been the vibration I attributed to moving motor up 2 holes.

Will re-test and check throttle response and motor vibration before making any changes. I also pulled new plugs and cleaned them in case tank feed caused any build up.

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Glad you found the problem.

I couldn't imagine raising the motor would cause those problems.

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Doug -

Let's not have 2 threads with the same discussion.

You have this one and "Water Test Today"
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...pid=127822

I suggest you update your testing on that one and let this thread stop.

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Sounds good Phil.
I was trying to keep throttle issue and motor moved up separate.
I'll wrap them up together in the water testing thread.

Thanks,
Doug

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I think what Phil is recommending, is keeping them separate.

1. Throttle Issues
2. Water Test

You have been posting the exact same reply to both topics and that doesn't work. Even you have to do double work and all the readers have to read the same thing twice in 2 separate threads. Confusing.

If the throttle issue is finished, then it is finished.

Keep on with the water test unless something comes up in the throttle issue.

Double posting is a waste of everyones time. And it waste space and bandwidth on our site.
Plus it is way too confusing on which post someone responds to when the other post may not get anything.