---

I'm wondering is pulling the battery cables through the tunnel kinked my throttle or shift cable - from moving the batteries forward. Console is shifting stiffly and it is difficult to find neutral. My thoughts are to try pulling the cables for and aft to work out any bends.

Open for suggestions,

Max

---

I spent almost the entire night last night trying to figure out the same problem. When I was shifting, I did not have a problem with the throttle. My problem was getting it into gear. Try shifting into gear and then go back and spin the prop. When I did this, the engine went into gear and then shifting was easier. I know that I won't be able to do this in the water, but my engine will also be running and the pro will be spinning. My tests were done with my motor off. Also, My cables are longer than they should be. Hope this helps. Bricken

---

I'd start by disconnecting the cable ends at the motor, and see how it shifts with no load on the engine end. Also, when they're disconnected, you can see where they sit "at rest" in relation to the mounting posts on the shift and throttle levers, and adjust if necessary.

---

I talked to a friend that is an outboard tech, he said that it is common for the cable housings in older boats to rust and with movement seperate allowing slack shifting. He suggested the same as Derwd24 - to disconnect on the engine side and watch for movement. It took a pretty good effort to get those battery cables through the tunnel.

Thanks...

Always something...

---

When was the last time these shift and throttle cables were changed?

Cables are cheap.
Although we don't need to change them just for practice.
If they are original to 1987, why not just change them anyway?

---

Joe,

These don't look like 1986 vintage but they have not been changed recently. What is the procedure for ordering cables - boat length and engine model or remove the old ones and replace them with the same? These cables have a black casing and seem to have about an extra foot of loop at the transom.

Since I've been working in the tunnel I've added a couple of strong nylon pull lines.

Thanks,

---

There should be a number printed or stamped on your current cable jacket that you can cross reference for the length.

And speaking of length, watch this video starting at the 2 minute mark on how to check cable play and the effects of cables that are too long:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQisk...Qisk_rEh8s

Go with the Evinrude HE cables, high quality and low friction:

http://www.boats.net/search/?q=he+cab...D=Evinrude

---

Thanks for that info Derwd24. Now I know why my E-TEC90 was rigged with the shift and throttle cables coming straight out of the rigging tunnel with very little slack, just enough to allow the engine to tilt and turn.

---

Good info, my cables have a small loop after they exit the deck hose and enter the engine. I'll have to see if there is any spec information for the proper length for a Guardian 18. Does anyone know if it is best to feed the cable from the console back or vice versa.