Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: port side kicker mounting

Posted by blacklab on 05/02/14 - 8:04 PM
#1

I want to mount a kicker with tiller directly onto the port side transom of my 1972 16' Cohasset II (just clamped on). Currently, I have my crabbing trot line prop stick mounted on the starboard inside rear transom. It looks to me as though a port mounted engine tiller would be restricted in movement due to the rear railing(when turning to the right). Has any one else encountered this or know if it will work? Currently my main engine is a Yamaha 2s 90 and used in the Chesapeake bay area. If worst comes to worst I suppose I could move the prop stick, but I was hoping to avoid that as it's been working great.

In addition, my thought process on the auxiliary motor purchase is to get a 4s 9.8 hp Mercury or Nissan. The 8 hp is the same weight, and I prefer to avoid the possible vibration of a single piston. Besides 20% more power for the same weight is significant(not that it will go any faster than displacement speed), but considering resale and potential use on other boats, it seems wise. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions.

Posted by gchuba on 05/03/14 - 7:05 AM
#2

I have a port side kicker in my 1979 22ft Revenge. The first kicker I had was tiller controlled with the same clearance issues. I got rid of it because bouncing when underway with the main motor and trailering had me cringe. Beating the heck out of the boat and tiller handle. I changed to remote controlled without the tiller handle. When in use (with either kicker) I locked the kicker motor in place and used my main motor as a rudder. No sharp turns but it still steered. I am still half looking for linkage for the fore portion of the motor (the bar connections on the backside of motors looks to awkward) but no big hurry. The main motor as a rudder works well enough. With my second kicker I was able to control the throttle at the helm. With the tiller handled kicker I set the throttle at a fixed rpm and off I went. Just trolling for salmon anyway.
gchuba

Posted by Joe Kriz on 05/03/14 - 11:09 AM
#3

Here is a pair of Yamaha's mounted on a Montauk.
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...er_id=5953

Here is an article for more information on installation:
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=48

Posted by blacklab on 05/03/14 - 5:51 PM
#4

Great advice. Thank you both. I had not considered a remote control binnacle from the helm. The pictures are very helpful and appreciated.

Posted by Joe Kriz on 05/03/14 - 6:03 PM
#5

Here is one I did for a friend on his Montauk.
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...?user_id=5

Although this is on the Starboard side, the Port side also works as you can see from the other link in my post above.

Nothing like having full control of the kicker when fishing. Thus the dual binnacle.
I used to troll for 6 to 8 hours a day using nothing but the 8hp kicker motor. This saved many hours on the larger main motor.

Posted by tothemax on 05/04/14 - 6:20 AM
#6

I've got an Outrage 18 and this year I'm going to add a lift mount for a 3.5 Yamaha - it's fine for crabbing speed and running the trotline. Also much better than idling the 150, smoke, fuel, and noise. It will work on the transom but it bites and steers better a little lower inthe water. We're off the South River on the bay.

I had an 8hp Yamaha 4 stroke mounted but it was a lot of weight back there and very tight. Joe's set up with the long shaft 2 stroke is nice.

Edited by tothemax on 05/04/14 - 6:22 AM

Posted by Whalerbob on 05/07/14 - 4:48 AM
#7

Why to port? It will interfere with the rails and the other reason most mount to starboard is single outboards will list to port when under power due to the rotation of the prop so mounting to starboard helps offset this.
I'm also in the Chesapeake and use it for crabbing (mostly out of Kent Narrows). Standing in the starboard corner I steer with my left and dip with my right so it's easy to run the line single handed. The Yamaha F6 is more than enough power for me. What ever you decide on placement, I STRONGLY recommend you through bolt it to the transom or at least chain it to something...

The only down side with the way I've mounted mine is the tiller handle can bang into the main engine if I'm not careful so I've got some scratches in the hood.

Edited by Whalerbob on 05/07/14 - 5:43 AM

Posted by tom blinstrub on 05/07/14 - 5:56 AM
#8

Blacklab, I think both the Tohatsu 8 and 9.8 are 2 cylnders so you really don't need the 9.8.

Joe I really like the set up on your 18. Do you see any problem mounting a kicker on the starboard side with the tie bar? Im working on my new to me 1989 Outrage 18 and I always put the kicker on the starboard side. The only thing I can think of is the steering cable might be in the way kind of. Also I always steered with the big motor acting as the rudder.I wonder with the propeller torque of the kicker would it steer better on one side of the other?

Posted by tothemax on 05/07/14 - 8:58 PM
#9

Just a note - when I had the Yamaha 8 mounted (to Port) I added a quick link connector for the steering. One day trolling and not paying attention I left the tiller arm down too far. I made a turn and heard a clink - only to watch one of my rods go over the side - tiller arm lifted it right out of the aft port rod holder. Between that and the extra weight I decided to leave the 8Hp kicker off.

Just a word of caution with the steering connection - it's handy but much nicer if you add a throttle control at the console. Good luck with the project.

Edited by tothemax on 05/07/14 - 9:00 PM

Posted by blacklab on 05/09/14 - 2:39 PM
#10

Whalerbob: the reason for the port side mount is because I have my Trotline Prop stick mounted in the aft starboard corner. This seems to make my line (and crabs) come up just slightly aft of the RPS (which is where I stand when dipping). I'd like to see a picture of your mount for your prop stick. I'm pretty new at trotlining and have never actually ran the line alone. I usually go out of Little Creek Landing on Crab Alley Bay....right around the corner from Kent Narrows.

The reason I decided on the 9.8 HP instead of the 8 is because the weight is the same for both engines. The 8 is just a de-tuned 9.9. I figured for possible use on other boats and resale value it might be better. In addition, the 20% more reserve power for the same weight was significant. If somebody makes a 2 cylinder 6 HP, I would consider it, but after hearing about "vibration" from one cylinder, I figure why chance it.

Of course I will run a wire cable or chain capable of supporting the engine from falling over each time I clamp the engine on, but I don't want to take a chance of having it stolen while unattended.

I really like the remote steering and throttle/shift idea.

Thanks again Joe for the great pictures and forum to kick around these ideas. Most of you have significantly more experience with boats than I. It never ceases to amaze me how talented the members here are....from woodworking projects to complete restorations.

Matthew