Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: 1985 evinrude 70... stalls at high speed

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 07/04/07 - 6:24 AM
#1

Ok... I did the test... ran the boat and pumped the bulb when it started to stall... it did regain power and moved along nicely for a sec. Ok.. we know it is a fuel issue. Here are my questions:

1- could it simply be a fuel line from the tank? I have another one and will try it to see if it works..

2- This is a new engine to me. I purchased it without the vro pump. I simply mix the oil in the tank. Did I need to do something besides plug the oil line? Could that be the problem?

3- Can a fuel pump be tested?

Any other advice?

Thanks

Posted by joninnj on 07/04/07 - 7:09 AM
#2

This really sound like a fuel pump. If pumping it revives it while running that is sure sign of fuel delivery issue. Could be a few things though, water? Old/bad fuel line and connections?

I doubt is the oil injection, others have disconnected the system, not sure why. I believe it to be reliable. Fuel pump is inexpensive to re-new or replace. Should be done every few seasons. There are tests for a fuel pump, could be messy and will be more of a pain in the ass than replacing.

First thing I would do is drain your carbs. Hopefully there a plug at the bottom of each of the bowls. Place lots of paper towels under it soak up what ever drains out and be careful. And wear Gloves! If water is there it will sitting at the bottom of the bowls and get sucked up at higher speeds. Then I would approach this as a process of elimination...:|

Edited by joninnj on 07/04/07 - 7:27 AM

Posted by Tom W Clark on 07/04/07 - 7:55 AM
#3

Sounds like failing fuel pump, a simple and inexpensive set of parts.

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 07/16/07 - 8:29 AM
#4

OK... I have done the following...

- New fuel line from 6 gal tank to the engine.. same problem
- New fuel pump.. replaced VRO with non VRO... same problem (even local mechanic who is really good said fuel pump... I will ask him again)

I will now replace all the fuel lines from the point where the fuel enters the engine - to the pump - to the carbs (not all those little hoses... just the fuel line to them). I will also replace the vacuum hose. If that doesnt fix it what does everyone else think?

I have to say, when I pump the ball when the engine is not running it appears that there is not leak at all!! I want to take this boat out and play.. Help!

Thanks!

Edited by IpswichWhaler on 07/16/07 - 8:32 AM

Posted by ioptfm on 07/16/07 - 11:13 AM
#5

I would think that it is definately the fuel pump and nothing to do with the fuel lines. Reason being is that when you have an outboard motor running and disconnect the fuel line, it will usually run for several minutes before it runs out of fuel, so the fact that it speeds up and then cuts down sounds like something interanl causing the fuel restrriction.

Posted by moose on 07/16/07 - 12:05 PM
#6

Did you try running it with another tank and fuel line? Maybe the pick-up is clogged a bit? It's an easy procedure and worth the chance.
Mike

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 07/23/07 - 8:52 AM
#7

I have not tested the modifications I have done but want to pass some other questions by all of you.

What I have done is replace the VRO pump with a straight fuel pump. I am confident that the pump is the right one because my local dealer is very knowledgable... really smart when it comes to fixinig engines. I did tell him all that I did and he did concur that it is the pump. But when I took it out for it's maiden test ride it still failed. VERY frustrating!

What I have done (in order):

- Replaced the fuel line from the 6 gal tank to the engine
- Replace the fuel pump
- Replace the fuel line from the entry point of the engine to the pump.. from the pump to the carbs... also replaced the pulse vacuum hose

My mechanic said that the line to the pump is the most important one because it is sucking.. pumping out it will not suck air which would cause the lack of fuel.

- I checked the fuel tanks... no blockage at the tube BUT... I out of precaution sealed the threads at the tank where the hose connects to it. You know, that part that the hose connects to the tank.. and that part threads into the tank. Maybe air was being sucked there? Just a precaution.

I would run it today but the weather is a little sour. When I do run it I will post my findings!

Oh.. one last thing. When an engine is running should the ball be hard the whole time? AND, are there more than one size hose connections? I assume that OMC has one size for all engines.

I apologize for not knowing exactly what some of these parts are called.... hope my descriptions are good enough!

thanks for
-

Edited by IpswichWhaler on 07/23/07 - 9:25 AM

Posted by Joe Kriz on 07/23/07 - 9:23 AM
#8

Ip,

I owned a 1985 Evinrude 70 hp for 15 years.

Mine had 5/16 inch fuel line and bulb. I think the 90 hp and above should start using the 3/8 inch fuel line and bulb.

My fuel bulb would always stay hard on that particular motor but on the larger motors I have owned, they never stayed hard when running and I never had a problem.

Do you have a spare fuel tank you can try?
Sometimes the vent gets clogged in the tank and will not draw fuel thereby starving the engine and collapsing the bulb...

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 07/23/07 - 9:45 AM
#9

Both of my fuel tanks do produce the same issue. I am going to borrow one to see if it ultimately might be the tanks. Mine are both old.

Raining here today... but I just may put on my rain gear and take it out. I am so curious if it will work or not.

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 07/30/07 - 7:30 AM
#10

OK... back to the drawing board.. with one new possible twist...

Still fails... still not getting the fuel it needs to run. So, what about these possible problems:

- Could my carbs be out of adjustment? Is there a high speed adjustment? and would that cause it to not suck the fuel that it needs?

- or, could the needles be worn.. could the carbs need rebuilding?

I bring up the needles because when I squeeze the bulb it eventually loses pressure... and it is a brand new hose! I read on some site that if the bulb doesnt get tight and stay tight it could be the needles in the carbs.

Thanks for your help everyone! If it isnt diagnosed with this I will break down and take it to my mechanic... urgh... I hate paying people.. and love fixing things myself!.. When I do the problem sticks in my brain and I can remember certain fixes if (when) a problem arises again either for myself or someone else.

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 08/06/07 - 7:51 AM
#11

Update... Still fails... Question for the "motor-heads" Could it be connected to the elec. choke? What is it called.... the primer selenoid?

Thanks

Posted by Derwd24 on 08/06/07 - 2:36 PM
#12

Have you considered using clear fuel line both before and after the pump, just for a high speed test run, so you could directly see what may be happening and on which side? Could shed some light on the persistent mystery....

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 08/06/07 - 7:24 PM
#13

Thats not a bad idea! Shoot, I have changed those dang lines so many times now I can do it in my sleep. If I see bubbles I know where they are coming from!

Thanks! for thinking outside the box!

Posted by MW on 08/07/07 - 12:44 AM
#14

How about the clip that screws into the fuel tank ? Is the needle pushing the ball in correctly on the fuel line ?
mw

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 08/07/07 - 6:50 AM
#15

The fuel hose is a new one. I did what everyone suggested.... first a new fuel hose from the tank to the engine... took apart one of my fuel tanks to see if there was constriction or blockage (problem was with both tanks). I replaced the fuel pump and all the hoses that lead into the fuel pump and out (I didnt replace the vro pump... this is an '85 engine... didnt want to spend the $$ so went with a traditional pump that my local Johnson/Evinrude mechanic looked up for me). New pulse line from the crank case also (actually, I am going to replace that one again... not to happy with the fit. Originally the clips that hold the lines onto the pump and other connections were those plastic squeeze clips. I replaced with stainless hose clamps.

I have read that the ultimate last possible option is the carbs. And that by screwing with them I could simply screw up the whole works. I simply want to exhaust all options before I take it to my mechanic.

Thanks for the suggestion... I can only assume it is pushing the ball in correctly. Shoot, how do you check that?

Posted by Derwd24 on 08/07/07 - 7:26 AM
#16

Glad to help out a fellow MA Whaler! The other thing you can do when you insert the section of clear line on the suction side is put a T fitting in (this way you don't have to remove the old supply line and can just insert the clear section between the pump and T fitting) and attach a vac gauge in the line. From what I've read, a 3/8" fuel line should show between 2.5 to 3" of vac at full speed. I think between the gauge and clear line, you should be able to get a good idea of what's causing the problem. And if there is an issue at the tank, as MW suggests, you'll be able to see it on the gauge.

Edited by Derwd24 on 08/07/07 - 7:29 AM

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 08/31/07 - 2:14 AM
#17

ok... here is what I did....

I went to my mechanic... he helped me by giving me the following advice:

On the fuel hoses under the cowel, the size is 5/16ths fuel line, he told me to not use the stainless hose clamps, they might pinch the hose and create air leaks. Said that the nylon hose ties are sufficient. I (just for kicks) replaced all the hoses again to make sure there was no chance there were any kinks, constrictions. I replaced the pulse vacuum hose to the fuel pump with a clear one... to my surprise I saw that there was liquid in it? Liquid? I cant imagine there should be any liquid at all. I am wondering if the liquid is THAT is my problem.... not a ton of liquid but enough to screw up the works.

Any thoughts?

Posted by jlh49 on 08/31/07 - 6:15 AM
#18

I'm not experienced with the 70 HP Evinrude. What type inline filter do you have inside the cowling? Is it the barrel type or cannister type? I had a 1986 225 Johnson with a cannister type inline filter. When the motor was first installed on my boat, it gave the same symptoms you are describing. After much testing, trouble shooting and frustration, found that the fuel filter was upside down. Changed it to the proper position and eliminated my problem.

Posted by Derwd24 on 08/31/07 - 7:58 AM
#19

JLH, my engine had the same fuel filter problem, wasn't in backwards as far as the connections, but the filter itself was 180 degrees flipped, so the "bowl" area was at the top, well worth taking a look at....

Ip, What do you see in the clear line when the engine is running? If it seems like the liquid is moving from the pump to the block, that would suggest a compromised diaphragm in the pump... That line is supposed to be vac, no? So I'd be surprised if it were coming from the block, but you never know!

Posted by IpswichWhaler on 08/31/07 - 9:42 AM
#20

The fuel filter under the cowling is oem.

The liquid I am pretty sure is from the block. It is mostly on that end of the vac line. I have not asked my local mechanic yet. I think I will go now before he closes for the long weekend. He may have a cause or at least a suggestion on what it may be and why.

Thanks!