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I am installing an anchor winch on my 1979 22ft Revenge. I was interested in some sort of anchor saving device. I have seen the videos for the cable set up with a shear pin in a shackle that breaks, when pulling in the opposite directions, that frees the anchor. The same web search showed "zip ties" doing the exact same thing. Any feedback on whether either system works. I would be worried if anchoring overnight and the anchor released accidentally.
gchuba

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I use the zip tie method on my danforth and it has paid off. A might mite anchor is also nice when anchoring around rocks. It is pretty forgiving. I would put on the gps anchor alarm if I was snoozing and worried my anchor could slip.

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bcoastal,
Thanks for the reply. How many zip ties and what size?
Garris

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I have never used zip ties and never will.

I've boated my entire life, on both power and sailboats to 50 feet, from the Sea of Cortez to the Gulf of Alaska.

I have yet to loose an anchor or even have a particularly tough time extracting a stuck one, but if the day comes, I'm not going to worry about it. Anchors are cheap. Boats are expensive.

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Have used Zip ties on my Bruce "day" anchor and it has paid off when the anchor became fouled on a log. However, I do not rely on this setup for a storm anchor. I always carry two anchors aboard, and sometimes three, depending on my plans for the trip and where I'm going to be.

For overnight situations, I usually add a catenary anchor to reduce the stress on the zip ties. Here is what I do: I have a small 12# Navy anchor for the dingy. My setup on the Whaler is a chain/nylon rode combination that has 25' of SS chain attached to 180' of 7/16" three-strand nylon anchor line. At the end is the main anchor. At the "top" of the chain (where it connects to the rode) I'll attach that little Navy anchor to hold the chain flat against the bottom. It can blow pretty hard up top, but once that Bruce anchor at the end sets up, the chain stays relatively flat against the bottom, resulting in a very secure hook. The catenary weight also helps reduce the overall length of scope needed, which is helpful in tight anchorages.

So far, I've only had to break the zip ties on the anchor once. I replace them each season.

I'll note again, however, that when a big blow is expected, this setup is EASY to retrofit to standard configuration - either with the bruce or with a Danforth, which is my secondary anchor.

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Garris, I use 3 heavy duty zip ties but it probably depends on the boat size and power. It's easy to remove the zip ties and switch it over if you are concerned.

The truth is anchors are expensive and if you loose it you also loose your chain and a good piece to rope. The zip tie method is great if you are anchoring around rocks or something you could loose the anchor on.

Tom, I've got plenty of experience too working as surveyor positioning anchors for rigs and pipe laying vessels all over the world. If you have never gotten an anchor stuck then you just haven't dropped enough.

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I don't understand how you would use a zip tie on nan anchor but anyway, if you are anchoring on the type of bottom you think may cause you to lose your anchor, why not just use a trip line?

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To use a zip tie as an anchor release you attach the anchor rode to the front of the anchor (the crown) then lead the rode to the shank where it would normally attach and zip tie it there.

If the anchor gets stuck, pulling it past a certain amount of tension will snap the zip ties and you will be able to pull the flukes out of whatever the anchor has hung up on.

It is a very clever idea and many people use this technique. It's cheap and simple. You can control the break-free pressure by using multiple zip ties or increasing/reducing the size of the zip ties.

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I've been using the breakaway zip tie method for years, it works great. I drill a hole in the crown and attach a small shackle. Then make a cable that's a little longer than the anchor with crimped loops on both ends, attach one to the Crown and shackle the other end to your anchor line. If you don't want to break away just run the shackle through the shank of the anchor too.
Even if you do get a power winch consider getting an anchor ball retrieval system, it's cheap and very effective.

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Thanks for all the input fellows. I like the zip tie method when actively fishing. I like Whalerbob's suggestion of having a shackle at the eye of the shank for having the anchor go back to standard use. I just slept through a ringing phone, so for overnight anchor outs I would not use the system. I see that a short length of cable is preferred, is that because the chain would bind/snag? Thanks again.
gchuba

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The chain can get hung up in the anchor with very heavy chain or a really small anchor but it works either way.
If I want more strength I'll loop the zip tie around two our three times or use multiples if needed. I don't recall ever having one break lose accidentally, normally I need the power of the boat to beak it free.

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I guess I've been living in a cave, never having heard of this. It certainly would have helped on a trip down the TennTom waterway when we anchored overnight in a creek and the next morning the anchor pulled up attached to an old 6 inch diameter tree. Do they rate zip ties for breaking strength or do you just guess?

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Test and experiment.

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I've seen breaking strength ratings on some lately but don't think they would apply too good to this application.

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It depends on the wind / current / seas and size of the boat. I'm my 17 Montauk I normally only use one tie wrapped 3X, on my brothers 24 Regulator we can get by with 1 but normally use 2 ties wrapped 3X. Either way it takes a fair amount of throttle to break it free when necessary.