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Good afternoon, all. New to Whaler Central and my first post.
A couple weeks back my father called and told me that we should go look at a boat his nephew wanted to sell. At the time he called he thought it was a 21 foot Bayliner. When we arrived to look at the boat, the first thing I saw was the Boston Whaler symbol on the back stern side. The boat had been in a warehouse and was in such good shape that my dad and I thought it was a 2000 or later model. The seats and canvas looked brand new and it had a large amount of teak wood which was also in good shape. It has a 175 merc and an aluminum tandum trailer which (appearance wise) looks to be in excellent shape. I was shocked when his nephew told us that it was a 1972. I have searched the web and was able to find this article and pictures of a 1970 that looks almost the same as the 72 I'm considering buying but does not have the ribs.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ceta...age36.html

Any thoughts from anyone on how much I should be willing to pay for the 1972?

Thanks for any comments.

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We also have photos in our section for "Whaler Model/Year Index" photos.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...allery.php

We also have a ribbed model in the above section:
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=11

We also have photos of a restoration in the "Project Gallery" photo section:
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...lbum_id=16

I'm sure some of our members can give you a ballpark figure on what it is worth.
Good Luck....

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Thanks Joe. If I buy it, I will post photos.

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Well first off how much does he want for it? Get him to first throw a number out before you decide. If it is in GREAT shape with a good motor and trailer any thing less than 10k would be a GREAT DEAL. If under $7500 it is a STEAL. 12 - 15k is what I would except a 8 out of 10 1972 banana hull to bring with a really nice and strong motor. To get to a 8 out of 10 it needs to have all the OEM hardware, The hull needs to shine like new, no bottom or well done bottom (none is prefered). Here is what I would label a 10+ out of 10 banana hull whaler 21. It is LHG's 1971 Outrage II.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...rage%2021/

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Jeff, thanks for the insight. Based on appearance only and your example of a 10, since I have not ran the engine yet I would rate the boat at a 7-8. Since I can buy the boat for $2K, I would assume it would be worth the money to bring it up to a 10. I know that it is a one owner but I didn't have time the day that I looked at it to see if all the gauges etc were in place. I can say however that all the canvas and upholstery looked almost new. I will post pictures once I pick it up and have time to post them.

Thanks again for you help. I mostly wanted to assure myself that the boat would be worth something if I had to put more money into it. From what you have said, I could afford to buy a new engine and still be in line with the boat's value.

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If you pass on it, send me the contact info and I won't :D

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Loch,

At that price, I would pick it up NOW...... Don't wait...

There will always be people like Bob Kemmler that will jump on it....

That would also include me too..... :p

Don't wait and don't tell anyone where it is....
If you do pass on it, yes, let Bob know as he is in Florida....

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I'd have that sucker parked in a nice comfy shop right next to my 21 Rev/Rage project before you could say cathedral hull :D

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GD! 2K. Hell, you could get that so long as it floated matter what it looked like.

Someday, Someday I WILL have something like that finally fall into my lap.

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Wiping up the puddle of drool in front of my keyboard. $2,000!?

At that price, and if in good shape as described, it's worth flying across the country for and renting a truck to tow her home...you're talking about .00001 percent deal here.

That kind of deal turns up about once every few years. Go for it.

You can buy a newer motor for the boat and still make a profit if you decided to sell.

Dave

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WOW, you lucky duck! Good deal! Do you know what year the engine is?

Dang, with an aluminum tandem trailer to boot. Amazing.

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Why cant these deals be in NJ? Heck I would go to Florida for a deal like that - who am I kidding. Go for it!!

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Thanks everyone. I knew it was a good deal but as I stated ... I wanted to insure it would be worth my investment if I had to put another 10K or so in it to bring it up to "like new" condition. I know that it is a one owner and if they made 175 mercs that year, I assume the engine came with the boat new.

I closed the deal last night without knowing for sure the condition of the engine. The owner says it is in good same but hasn't been run in a few years. He said he bought it new and figured he had gotten his money's worth since 1972.

I will be picking it up next weekend. I will post pictures and more info after I've had it a few days. I am excited about my "new" old whaler and I look forward to bringing it up to a 10.

This is a great site and I can tell from this tread and others that I've joined the right group of dedicated Boston Whaler owners. Best of luck to all.

One last question, how do you insert the smilley faces in your comments because I'm smiling ear to ear?

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This seller was related to you??? At 2K the boat was stolen from him... I wouldn't want to have to explain the mistake he's made further down the road not to mention the karmic consequences.

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A willing buyer, and willing seller = a deal. Seller figured he got his money out of it, and is now passing it on to someone in the family at a very sweet price. Seems like the RESULT of good karmic activity!

Loch... maybe twenty years from now, you'll have 'gotten your money out of it' and you can pass it on to your grandson or something!

In the Reply window, just hit one of the smiley/frowny/surprized faces, and it will show up in your reply as the graphic (but it shows up as a colon/parenthesis or something like that before you post) --------> B)

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OH-MY-GOD
you are one lucky son-of-a-gun!!!

congratulations!

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Good morning, all.

I picked the boat up on Saturday. :D Needs some work to bring it up to a 10 but the boat and trailer are worth way more than the 2K I paid. Two issues that I need to address on the boat before I do anything else:

1. Wiring ... the wiring is like most old boats, to be right it all needs to be completely replaced. Also, all the guages are original (don't know if they work) but the speed ometer guage lense is boken so I want to replace them all.

Two questions here: 1. Electical: Any suggestions on buying a wiring harness?
Also, where do I buy a complete set of OEM guages for this boat at a reasonable price. (I've read the article on Bombardier guages but couldn't find them on the web)

2. Since the boat has been sitting a couple of years, I want to clean the gas tank before running the engine. Any suggestions here?

I would post pictures of the boat but my daugher has my digital camera and is visiting her grandmother for a couple of weeks. I will post some as soon as she returns.

Thanks in advance for any help. :)

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Loch, your task will be more or less involved, depending on how well the boat was de-commissioned when last stored. Of particular note is if your carbs have gas "varnish" which could lead to starvation of a cylinder and do real damage (assuming you can get it to run). I'm moving into the mechanical stage as my hull work progresses, so I'll be watching your thread with interest. Others will give you more specific recommendations, I'm sure. Lots of "old hands" around here!

Another must-do is to change the lower unit oil, which is a simple task. The condition of the oil you remove may tell you a thing or two. It's good to get a manual or manuals for the motor (owner's and service manual). There are aftermarket manual and factory manuals, and prices vary.

The water pump impeller is a little more involved, but the part is cheap, and cheap insurance. An overheated motor can go south real fast (in seconds).

Did you mention what year and model the engine is? Horsepower?

Best wishes for your project. Enjoy the process!
:)

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Delawaredan, thanks for you comments. Once I get good gas and wire, I intend to take it and have the engine checked out by someone who knows what they are doing. At minimum, as you suggested, I will have the water pump replaced. I have rebuilt many carberators so I may just do that before I take it to him so he can make final adjustments.

It is a merc 175 Madmax but I forgot to bring the serial number in today so I could check the year. I know it is alot newer than the boat.

Oh, by the way, the stencil number on the boat is 00888. I will have to as Joe about that since it doesn't seem to match the numbering scheme in the articles. But I know the boat is a 1972 Outrage.

Again, thanks for your comments. :)

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On one of the other thread, Bob Kemmler wrote an excellent post on commissioning an engine, but I can't find it. Will check again.

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water pump, water pump, water pump, and not just the impeller, I want a full water pump (case and all, including "Wear plate" replacement), it's the weakest link on any outboard, it should be replaced no less than once every two years. Good luck, we're all counting on you, "Soldered marine connections only", no crimping, we're watching you all the time ! my e-mail is always open if you need help.

MW

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Make sure to use tinned marine grade wire.

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Dan, Mike, Dan. Thanks for the comments. I will look for the recommisioning article as well. I have had quite a few boats and it doesn't take long to learn the lessons of water pumps. I am ancious to post pictures but I have to wait.

If I buy an aftermarket engine wiring harness, will it come with sufficient wires for guages, lights, bildge pump, etc. or do these require additional harnesses? I have learned that many problems stem from bad wiring and I want to do this right.

What type of guages should I buy to keep the dash original?

The hull on this boat has quite a few "spider cracks" but overall is in good shape and will a little buffing will look good. I am depating "going hole hog" or just fixing electrical and mechanical now and attach the hull later.

I spent Sunday afernoon cleaning the boat up and checking things over. The hull design and layout of this boat is great! :) The seat base is an ice chest and the seat back, which is connected by a teak board, moves back for driving or forward for fishing, etc. Based on comments I've read on this forum, I'm going to sand and re-oil the teak. This in itself will be a big project as it has a great deal of teakbbut again, I want to do it right the first time. (my mother always told me, if something is worth doing, it is worth doing right)

Anyway, this is a great site and all of you are great.

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Good morning, all. More good news on my 72 21' Outrage. I checked with the mechanic yesterday (a really good one with over 30 years experience with Mercury engines) and he indicated that the 1978 175 hp Merc engine was in good shape :D but needed a lot of work to bring it back in service (ie, water pump, fuel pump, engine wire?, rebuild carbs, and tune up). He estimates the cost will be somewhere around $1K. This means that before the restoration of the boat, I will have about $3K in the boat. With anohter $2K in paint, wiring, fuel tank, and electronics, I will have a new very nice classic BW for about $5K!!

I will post pictures and and start a project site if my daughter ever decides to return from her grandmother's house. Hopefully next week which will work out good since I will get the boat back at the end of the week.

Since I need a new steering cable (already removed) anyway, I plan on removing the engine and cut the wiring before I get started on the hull. Also plan on building the 4x6 and 4x4 boat dolly that was discussed here.

Oh, unfortunately, I will not be able to show before pictures of of some of the teak :( as I couldn't wait and thought sanding and refinishing most of the teak would keep be busy while waiting on the engine work. I will be able to show the center console teak which is tipical of most of the before teak. The pieces that I have finished so far (battery, bait well, and bilge cover) look great after sanding and appling several coats of Amazon teak oil. B) I agree with most here that if your teak is in bad shape ... sanding is the best way to go.

Here is my question (there always has to be a question for this informed group) ... the Amazon teak oil insturctions say to apply "pre-oil" treatment to the wood and mix 25% to your oil for the first couple of coats of oil. They indicate that this substance removes water from the wood which keeps the finished wood from turning dark. I have looked everywhere and I can not find this "pre-treatment" they suggest. Does anyone know if they still sell it or do they call it something else now?

As always, thanks, Ron.

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Hello Loch - I just recently purchased an Outrage 18 and was anxious to start on the teak ASAP. I spent alot of time researching what others have done (Cetol, Start Bright, etc.), but made my final decision to go with the Amazon product line. I went to four different places this past weekend looking for the Step 2? to mix with the Amazon Golden. I had zero luck finding it! I stressed to the sales rep at my final stop that I did not want all of my sanding to be a waste, and that I wanted to do it according to instruction. He said that I am the only person that has apparently read the instructions or cares? From what I gather, the 25% mix is to thin out the first two coats to help penetrate the wood. He also stated, as the others did, that they cannot get the product from the manufacturer.
Anyway, I sanded, cleaned and applied the coats according to instruction, minus the dilution step, and it appears to have turned out nicely. I started putting the hardware back onto the boat this evening in hopes of getting it wet this weekend. Good luck to you, and congrats on your new ride!

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stinzgraze, I came to the conclusion that Amazon doesn't make it anymore. I agree that it is used to thin the oil out so the wood will absorb better. I suspect that mineral sprits, laquer thinner or else would work but I'm not taking a chance. My first piece turned out just fine with simply applying serveal coats of oil.

Beautiful wood when finished properly. Good luck.

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Loch see my comments in this teak finishing article.

Here are images of the teak finished
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Memorial%20Weekend%2006/MemorialWeekend2006061.jpg[/IMG]
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more images are the bottom of the page

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Hello Jeff - not to hijack Loch's thread, but do you have a good recommendation for restoring/polishing the metal as well? Your teak looks great! Mine turned out a little darker than that, although I think it still looks good. I will post some pics here soon!

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String,

I polish all of my bright work with a heavy clay / tripoli compound and a cotton wheel mounted on a bench grinder.

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Thanks, Jeff.

My pieces are turning out but also a little darker than yours. I don't know why they are turning out darker (wood, water, or sanding method) and that is why I was looking for the pre-treatment.

Here are the pieces that I am doing now. This is a photo of the only other boat I found on the internet with the same hull design.

http://www.usedboats.com/enlarged_pho...%20storage

Oh, I got an e-mail back from BW ;) on my hull number and here it is:

"According to Whaler's records, serial number 00888 was built in our old Norwell, MA factory as a Bare Hull 21' Outrage (no interior was shipped with the boat) and was picked up at the factory by Down East Sportsman out of W. Rockport, Maine on 11/2/72.

There were quite a few different configurations available back in those days. This one is fairly rare where it did not have any console or seating installed at the factory."

My console in the large teak covered one but I have not found another boat with the seat that I have. The seat doubles as an ice chest with a cushion lid and the back rest has a pivotal teak arm that allows the back rest to go to the rear or front.

Hopefully I will post pictures soon.

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Loch if you ever need some extra hands for some delicate tasks on that baby, just give me a shout. I work cheap, a couple packs of sugar free Monster energy drinks and any spare parts ya got lol :D Can't wait for the pics, ya lucky sob lol

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Exposure to higher and more intense UV light will darken it. Also if you are using a power sander and you are overworking / overheating the wood it will turn it dark as well. Found that one out the hard way. I have even hand an area on a piece of teak furniture get a dark greenish hue from overheating.

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Bob, Jeff. I got a call from the mechanic on Thursday indicating the motor was finished. He said he was amazed at how well the engine ran. Of course this was after he did all his work ($600 for all).

I took Friday off and my father and I drove to Daytona to visit Surplus Unlimited at Daytona Beach and checked prices on many things I will need. Great place and prices by the way. Drove back through Deland and picked the boat up. This is a good time to say that I have found that many of the BW related vendors are located in Daytona or Deland. If any members want me to check on things for them, I will be more than happy to do so.

I borrowed a small digital camera on Friday and took pictures but I don't know how well they will turn out. After taking pictures, I strarted stripping the boat on Saturday. I was able to get all the wiring off, center console removed, railing removed, and most of the hardware. I will finish when I get home today. Other than old bottom paint, the hull is in great shape.

I called the local soda blasting company this morning and I am awaiting them to return my call on pricing. If price is reasonable, I will have them blast it next week after I have a chance to remove the engine.

Here is where I have a question. The non-slip deck has a good deal of spider cracks which will be hard to sand. If I have them soda blasted and fill in with primer paint, will this be sufficient to end up with a good job? All the other stress cracks above the rub rail, I will use a dremel tool, fill and sand.

Another question. It appears the origina color was white except the deck which was the desert tan. Is the desert tan a non-slip paint?

Bob, thanks for the offer but I think this is going to be a rush job as we are trying to get it finished in time for snook season which starts September 1st.

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At long last, (I borrowed a camera because I wanted to get started working on the boat) here are "before" pictures of my $2K 1972 Outrage. I bet Bob thought I was on drugs or something ... but check out my personal page for pictures. (posting pictures was another challenge)

As of today, the motor has been removed, and all the hardware stripped off. This was a two person 3 day job!! Next weekend we will start stripping the bottom paint and doing what little patching needs to be done on the hull. I think the spider web and stress cracks will take the most time. I will post pictures of these stages later.

I have given the fuel tank drawings to the fab shop and they should have the tank ready soon. As mentioned in the photos, I originally thought I was looking at a complete re-wire but most of the wire is new and only needs new gauges and securing.

This is (and has been) a lot of work but I think I will have a beautiful and functional boat when I get finished.