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Please tell me what you think of these prices:

motor $7600
wiring harness $150
system check tach $200
control cables $160
2 gal XD100 oil $100
binnacle control w/ key $520
labor $720
incidentals $150

Total $9600

The shop is a very reputable and recommended dealer. It includes a serious water test, from what I understand, of a couple of hours. It is located in the New Orleans/MS Gulf Coast area; if you have a suggested reputable dealer you like, I'm game to get pricing.

Roger

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Roger, Two weeks ago I had a new E-TEC 90 installed on my 1984 Montauk 17. The dealer here in Michigan removed the old Yamaha 90and it's throttle/shift binnacle and the old tach. He installed the new engine with new binnacle, ignition and safety lanyard, I-Command gauge, a gallon of XD-100 oil and the prop supplied by me. He water tested the boat. Oh and prior to drilling the new mounting holes in the transom he plugged the old ones. After subtracting $500 for the value of my old engine, my total out the door price including tax was $10,750.00. I was going to buy an extra gallon of oil and he said the oil in the tank would probably last through October.

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I was looking about this time last year for an E-Tec to re-power my 1982 Montauk. I was told the best time of year to buy a motor is February. I imagine that this is(or is approaching) the 'high season for motor prices.

There is often a promotion for re-powering with Evinrude. Last year it was the controls and a 5 year warranty. This year I believe they are offering free rigging. http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/promotions/e-tec-spring-sales-event Make sure you get it...

Most knowledgeable dealers I spoke with recommended a new fuel tank, fuel lines (they are a different size on the new engine). Your batteries had also better be in tip-top shape as well.

All the best....

Mike

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That's a pretty good price. I had a new 90 installed a little over a month ago. Reused my control cables and prop, but new wiring, control and system check gauge. Price out the door including labor and 6.5% tax was $8750.

John K.

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That is pretty typical pricing.

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That’s right at what I payed two months ago in Delaware

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IF it is possible to move up to a 115hp E-TEC, there is a promotion going on right now that gives free controls, instruments, rigging equipment, networking, and prop if purchased before May 31.

http://www.evinrude.com/Content/Pdf/e...f#zoom=100

http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/promoti...ales-event

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I will continue pricing in the area with two dealers left to go. if the 115 was lighter I would go with it. not really in the need for more power - it's gonna be mostly me and 1-2 others fishing. if I was a serious skier I would look at the 115 more. the reputable dealer cautioned me that I was looking at less torque than I was used to with my old Johnson 90.

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Just Keep in mind a 115 means an external oil tank, unlike the 90 that has the tanks under the cowl.

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the dilemma is that I have a closer dealer with a less stellar but not bad reputation that is $1500 less... I am going to bring the boat over there 1st thing Sat AM and finalize the deal at the cheaper place. if they have any hokiness I will just leave there and go to the other dealer.

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In any case the extra 2 years warranty on the E-TEC 90 and below expires soon, end of this month, I think. My dealer told me he could give me the 115 cheaper than the 90 because of the factory incentive.

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$1500 is a lot of service and fuel.

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Hi Roger,

I live in the same area and looking to purchase the same motor. Could you please forward the boat dealers your referring to in our post, thanks.

Don

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rockyone, I priced motors at Performance Marine in Gulfport, Blue Dot and Northlake Marine in Slidell. Performance has a stellar reputation with a friend who is a professional outboard mechanic with 25+ years experience. I went to Blue Dot to 'lay eyes' on the place as I had driven by for 20 years ... I felt comfortable there and the deal they gave me was great. Northlake was priced between the two and did not have a great feeling on the phone call discussion. Just my 2 cents - you might have a better feel if you go there in person.

I am getting the 5 year warranty since I bought before the end of the month plus they are throwing in a Viper 15" prop and free rigging. Also they are installing a couple of items and we haven't spoken about a trade-in on my old motor but that's in the works.

Feel free to e-mail or PM me for any further info !

Roger

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Roger -- You'll want the 17" Viper, not the 15"

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thanks Tom, i'll tell them. I have a 17" on the old Johnson 90 that I am keeping for a spare and I told them to mount 3 holes up. should be ready this week - hopefully before the weekend.

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Wing who did you use, here in West Michigan

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EJO, I used Van's Sports Center in Grand Haven. They are dealers for every major brand of outboard and gave the best price I could find in this area. I forgot to say that my price included the new steering cable they installed. If you call them ask for Tom Sullivan.

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SO finally bit the bullet and bought a 90 e-tec..
my marine mechanic who is installing it said "i'm not sure I agree with the 3 hole up suggestion" ...he has 20 years of experience and I love him but I trust you guys a ton...so how can I "explain it" to him? Please help!
Also, he recommended a 13' D 19" P aluminum prop....again..I think against what you guys have been saying...thoughts? I mostly go fishing and teach my young kids how to wakeboard and ski ...all on a lake..

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I would go with advice from Tom, I did the same as you, purchased a motor with 14 3/4 X 15. Tom told me I would need a 14 3/4 X 17, After running my 15 pitch prop, I found I did indeed need the 17 pitch. I called the shop I bought the motor from and they swapped out props, I just had to remove and keep my hub.

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Go with the advice here, it's tailored to your specific engine and hull combination.

When we bought our Etec from a well established dealer, they had the engine mounted all the way down and completely wrong prop on it. After lifting the engine all the way and getting the right prop recommendation from Tom, the boat was transformed and performed so much better.

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well, after much discussion last night with the dealer - here is my new 'situation'. the dealer was out of stock on the 90 in the 'white' version. offered to move me to a 115 for the same price. I decided the extra 50 pounds of motor wouldn't kill me.

I am having them mount the oil tank in the console with the battery - that should offset any balance issues at the back of the boat - couple of questions needed answered ASAP since I told them for messing me up I expect the boat TODAY.

1. any loss of economy - should that be offset by lower cruising RPMS ?
2. still looking at mounting 3rd hole up = move to 2nd hole ??
3. prop - still giving me a Viper - what pitch or other suggested E-rude prop ? was getting a 17".

Thanks.[mail][/mail]

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I would not put an E-TEC 115 on a Montauk, but no matter. If you do, then you'll probably want the 18" or 19" Viper.

Mount the motor three holes up.

You will almost certainly get less fuel economy, but it shouldn't be a big difference.

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did not check the prop size when I picked up the boat, but was there when the mechanic was checking the run-time diagnostics after the water test and the top RPM with the current prop was around 5700+

they said that they wanted to keep it under 6K. it's a Viper prop. motor mounted 3 holes up.

did not get to run it Sunday so I could see the actual fuel burn at various RPMs to get my best economy... that will happen this weekend at worst although I may do it during the evenings ...

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Derwd24 Dave,

Did you raise the engine up yourself or did you take it back to the dealer? How did you know it needed to be moved up?

Thanks,

Calin

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I've raised mine a few times alone (same 90hp E-Tec). Lower the trailer jack, put a piece of wood under the skeg, lower the engine with the power trim until the skeg is set againt the wood. Remove the top 2 bolts and only loosen the 2 lower ones (in the slots). Raise the jack (the transom will go down) until the holes in the transom matches the next lower set of holes on the outboard bracket and tighten everything. That's it!

Not sure about the "physics" of why it's beneficial but it's almost always the case, unless you go too high and it's sucking air badly. 1) For sure there's less lower unit drag in the water and 2) Maybe because the prop, by trying to "grip" in the water, even by being higher, will force the transom down and, BTW, the bow up, thus having less hull in contact with the water...It act almost like you're always trimmed up.

When raising mine, performances improve and I notice I have a lot less trim "play", being only able to bump it up a few degrees before it blow up.

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Thanks for the explanations!!

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Give this a read:

http://www.veradoclub.com/smf/index.p...opic=137.0

Saumon described the same procedure I used to lift the engine, works very well. And don't forget to reseal the bolt holes when you have the new engine height set.