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I want to remove the carb on my 1987 Johnson 30 hp outboard so I can rebuild it. It is an electric start motor and it looks like you have to remove the starter to get to the one bolt on that side of the carb is that correct ? It does not look like you could get a socket, open or box end wrench on there am I missing something ? Waiting for daylight and I'll go out to the garage and study the repair manual but thought I'd ask here.

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You'll probably have to remove the starter. Never seen under the cowling of that engine but removal of starters to access other engine components is common on outboards. If the bolt doesn't readily turn use PB Blaster or some other product to help release the corrosion.

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BTW: I finally answered your PMs. Hadn't visited WC for a few days. Keep us posted on your progress and let us know what you've had to do to get the motor running properly.

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If you are going to rebuild a carburetor, I recommend you gave a Service Manual to help guide you through the process. A Service Manual will also tell you what steps are required to remove the carburetor.

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I removed the carb today and found a local marine store that had an OEM carb rebuild kit. I removed all the parts of the carb and soaked it for 30 minutes in carb cleaner. Blew out all the passages with air and put her back together with new parts. Primed the primer bulb and she fired right up and ran great...........for 2 minutes and then the high temp buzzer went off and I turned her off. I just replaced the water pump impellar/housing two weeks ago and assuming I did that correctly what else could be the problem ? There was some splatter of water coming out the exhaust outlet but it was not a stream. Could the thermostat be stuck/gunked up ?

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Saying "I just replaced my water pump but it still overheated" is similar to saying "I just put gas in my car but it still won't run"
There are a number of things that could be wrong such as bad thermostats, bad popping valve, and many many places that passages could be clogged up. I would start by taking off the thermostat housing cover and seeing what you see

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Check for insect nests; especially a "dirt dauber" nest. Did you replace the thermostat? If not, go ahead and replace it; they're inexpensive, easy to replace and critical for proper operation. While the housing is off try to direct water into the water passages to get a handle on whether or not there could be some blockage in them. Set an old towel under the foot of the motor to catch any possible debris that may come out.

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I did not replace the thermostat to be honest the SELOC repair manual is not real clear where the thermostat is on the motor. The motor has set for 6-7 years so it easily could have a mud dauber nest or two buried in the bowels of the cooling system. I'll investigate further today/tomorrow. Thanks

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The Thermostat is right above the top cylinder, item # 19 in this drawing:

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP...parts.html

There is no Poppet Valve on a Johnson 30.

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Tom to get to the thermostat you have to remove item # 53 cylinder head cover ? Someone suggested to me that some outboards don't draw well on garden hose muffs and said to submerge it in a garbage can of water. Costs nothing so I will try that tomorrow if it isn't raining.

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If you run the motor in a garbage can be sure to first rmove the prop. Not only for safety purposes but to also prevent the airated water from not properly cooling the engine. This info is from my outboard mechanic who advised me against garbage can test tanks. Also be mindful of over-reving the engine w/o a prop.

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Yesterday I replaced the thermostat. When I removed the head cover the old thermostat had some mineral buildup but not too bad. I cleaned everything up and ran a hard wire through all the openings I could see, I found no restrictions. Put it all together and let the gasket sealant dry overnight. Today I placed the lower unit into a garbage can and filled it up. Fired up the motor and had a decent amount of water coming out at idle and a better stream when I advanced the throttle. I kept monitoring the water output and after about 3 minutes the overheat alarm went off. I let it run for another minute and turned it off. The head cover was too hot to the touch. So I have a new thermostat, a new impellar with decent water flow and still overheating. Any ideas ?

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Are you sure that water tube is in correct position when you mounted gearcase to mid section?

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First time doing the water pump impellar so no I'm not 100 % sure I got it right. It would seem to me it would automatically line up if you have the lower unit centered on the mid section but maybe not.

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The water tube can sometimes be easily knocked out of alignment or the assembly can be re-assembled w/o the water tube being in its' correct orientation. Not at all sure what it's like on your engine.

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I had an Evinrude 40 that overheated at slow speed but did not at higher speeds. Only to find out the water pump kit came with 2 different size shaft keys. I used the one that was to small and the impeller was not spinning properly. Also check to see if you have all the parts where the water tube goes into the housing. You may have a rubber grommet the tube goes into that is not lined up. Put a little grease on it so it goes together easier. That tube cane come out and or get bent, it is usually copper.

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Thought I would update the overheat condition. I decided to take it to a local marine shop to have them get me going, turns out I did not install the water pump correctly. My mistake was I replaced each old piece with a new one except whoever previously worked on this motor left some pieces out so I copied their mistake. The shop called today said the motor is running great with plenty of water flow. They lake tested it and ran it at speed no issues. I'm picking her up tomorrow can't wait for my maiden voyage but the weather is supposed to rain this weekend so it will have to wait.

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That's great. Good to hear what the problem was. Enjoy.