Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Mariner 50hp motor
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/25/13 - 8:49 PM
#1
Recently gained a 1997 Standard 15', which has a mariner 50 on the back. The motor is not blown up from what I can tell but it won't crank. I put a new spark plug in to see if that would help but it made no difference. I have limited mechanical experience and would like to do as much on my own as I can, as I'm 18 in college, got to save money when possible. What would y'all start off checking?
Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/26/13 - 12:16 PM
Posted by Tom W Clark on 03/25/13 - 8:56 PM
#2
When was the motor last run?
Are you using fresh fuel in a fresh tank or the old fuel in the old tank?
That motor uses more than one spark plug; I think it uses four.
When you say "it won't crank" that implies it won't run over like it has a dead battery, but I think you mean to say it won't fire when it does turn over. Please clarify.
Posted by Joe Kriz on 03/25/13 - 9:02 PM
#3
It is always best to include the year of your boat as mentioned in your other thread.
If the motor turns over, then it is cranking.
If you turn the key to start, and the motor doesn't crank, then you may have a dead battery or something wrong with the key switch.
Give us all the info you can.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/25/13 - 9:04 PM
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/25/13 - 9:06 PM
#4
Sorry guys, new to the whole forum thing. I apologize in advance.
The whaler is a 1997 and I'm not sure on the engines year. Guessing the same.
They said the motor had not been ran since 2007. I put new gas in the old gas can.
And yes it won't fire. It will turn over however.
I'm trying to come up with a check list of simple things to try before I have it taken to a shop. Guess I'll start by looking for more spark plugs
I'm guessing a new gas can will be on the "to buy" list as well as new gas lines?
Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/25/13 - 9:34 PM
Posted by jfortson on 03/26/13 - 5:00 AM
#5
First, I am by no means very knowledgable, but the first thing would be to get a service manual. A factory manual would be best, but there are some good after market manuals available. The water pump impeller will need to be changed, but I can understand wanting to hear the engine run first. However, you still should have the "ear muffs" hooked up and water running through when trying to start the engine.
The next would be to try to isolate the problem to fuel or spark and hope it is only one of those and not both. You could remove one of the plugs and ground it against the motor while cranking to see if there is a spark, but the person holding it had better be careful how he holds it or he can tell you right away if there is a spark!!
In my limited knowledge, I would guess fuel and fuel system. Probably carbs need cleaning/rebuild. This looks like a daunitng task, but not bad once you get into it, especially with a manual. It can ne a good learning experience and add to your boating enjoyment.
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 5:19 AM
#6
I used the muffs when trying to start the motor.
Yes there is a spark there. We've tried that
Posted by zappaddles on 03/26/13 - 5:48 AM
#7
Since you stated that you have spark try draining the old fuel from the carburetors. Check the fuel lines and fuel filter for any blockages. The goal is to evacuate all of the old fuel from the system and to verify that you have fresh fuel reaching the cylinders and that the filters and lines are freeflowing. The chances are great that the carbs are blocked in some fashion or another and will need to be cleaned/re-built. I see that your in Georgis. If your in north metro Atlanta shoot me a PM for a couple of marine mechanic referrals.
Posted by jfortson on 03/26/13 - 6:40 AM
#8
Since you have a spark, that dramatically increases the probability of a fuel problem. Some advise against this, but I would try a very quick and short shot of starting fluid to see if it fires. The problem here is no oil or lubrication and keep it short and do not over do it. A carb rebuild is likely and with a manual and/or finding "how to" instructions on the internet, it is not that difficult. Just take your time and do one carb at the time and take plent of pictures with your phone or camera before taking the carbs off and taking them apart.
Posted by jfortson on 03/26/13 - 6:42 AM
#9
One other thing - the rebuild kits should be available from dealers or on-line relatively inexpensive.
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 7:10 AM
#10
I tried a quick shot of starting fluid very small amount however. The motor almost fired when it had the tiny shot, does that tell me anything?
Posted by zappaddles on 03/26/13 - 7:13 AM
#11
It tells you there is a fuel problem.
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 7:18 AM
#12
Okay so now move on to checking the fuel lines, fuel filter, and carbs. If I find blockage in the fuel filter and fuel lines, would it be easier to just go ahead and replace with new?
Posted by jfortson on 03/26/13 - 8:34 AM
#13
With the direction this is going, I would say it is better than a 50/50 chance you will ultimately rebuild the carbs. To add to what I have already mentioned (from experience), take pictures and notes before and during the process. First take pictures and notes of the linkage and even mark the linkage so you can return it to original. It may be adjusted differently afterward, but at least you have a starting point. Also, be sure to mark and number the carbs so each one goes back to the original port. Before removing the jets, screw them in and count the turns just for reference - you may end up adjusted different, but you will have a reference. When I rebuilt mine, different manuals suggested different initial settings for the jets. And disassemble one carb at the time so you always have another one to look at and so you do not get parts from one mixed with the other.
All of this sounds elementary, but it is easy to mess up or forget.
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 8:39 AM
#14
Can you point me in the right direction of a carb rebuild kit? When I searched it all I pulled up was forum results. Of course the motors year probably would've done me good to know, but that is unavailable at this time.
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 8:51 AM
#15
The motor model looks like a 1998 according to the pictures I've come across on google.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/26/13 - 12:15 PM
Posted by jfortson on 03/26/13 - 9:40 AM
#16
You can go to a dealer if one is close by. They may cost a little more than on-line, but you know you will get the right kit and maybe a little advice.
Posted by Tom W Clark on 03/26/13 - 2:27 PM
#17
Given the photos I have seen of this boat it seems likely the previous owner may not have been particularly diligent with motor maintenance and winterization for storage.
If the motor has been sitting for years with fuel in the carbs, it would not surprise me if they are gummed up with dried varnish and need to be rebuilt.
When searching for Mercury Outboard parts, you really need your serial number and model number. I recommend this vendor for motor parts:
boats.net
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 3:11 PM
#18
okay, got the serial 0G482597 also got this number on the inside of the motor. M362251005
Edited by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 3:57 PM
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 5:38 PM
#20
Would taking various angles of the motor help any? Tomorrow I'm going to work on getting some of the leaves and trash out, then take off the fuel line find out what new one ill need and get a new primer because this one looks to be in bad shape. The gas can also looks pretty beat up but usable, do y'all suggest just buying a new can? I put the spark plugs on there and there is definitely spark. I have a buddy coming tomorrow with me and he's gonna try and take a look at things. He hasn't done TOO much work with boat motors but he's excellent with dirt bikes and four wheeler motors that are carbeurated
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/26/13 - 5:40 PM
#21
What kinda tool do you use to check compression?
Posted by cwk6 on 03/26/13 - 7:19 PM
#23
You don't need one anywhere near 125 dollars though. A 25 dollar one will do just fine.
Posted by brorobin on 03/27/13 - 1:49 PM
#24
cwk6 wrote:
You don't need one anywhere near 125 dollars though. A 25 dollar one will do just fine.
The two that I posted links to were $25.99 and $39.99 with my zip code as a price reference.
Posted by CES on 03/27/13 - 1:52 PM
#25
You can "Borrow" them from Autozone for FREE!
Posted by Dallas2256 on 03/27/13 - 3:48 PM
#26
Carbs were terribly dirty. Need new needles though, the website listed above says they are obsolete so what're some other website suggestions
Posted by Dallas2256 on 04/03/13 - 12:56 PM
#27
http://s1109.photobucket.com/user/Dallas2256/media/42882A28-7DB2-4CFA-8D6B-3E01DE8CEF5F-507-0000010E08A08AD0.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0
Update on the motor, ran good, boats cleaned and spotless, Bimini top still has some spots that could stand to be washed off somehow but no big deal. Now to get the trailer/boat legal/registered