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I have a new to me 1987 short shaft Johnson 30 HP outboard that I need to replace the water pump impeller. This is part of preventative maintenance and the first time I will be doing this job. I have a Seloc repair manual and have ordered the pump kit from an online supplier along with the lower gear case gasket kit. I assume the first thing I need to do is drain the gear case ? I have already removed the prop. I'm guessing after the gear oil is drained replace the drain/fill screws temporarily and then tilt the motor up? Remove the 4-6 bolts that hold the lower unit to the upper unit and pull them apart? Any tricks or things to look for as these are separated? Should silicone grease be applied to the impeller vanes? Anything else? Thanks.

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You'll have to take the shifter linkage lose also.

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I can tell you, no matter what outboard you have, that you do NOT need to drain the gear oil or remove the propeller to change the water pump; the two have nothing to do with each other.

Study your manual carefully before proceeding. Tell us what model you have and perhaps some tips can be added.

I have a 1987 Johnson 9.9 and it is quite straightforward to change the water pump. My old Johnson 6 was easy too but the procedure was slightly different.

Be sure you use OE BRP parts, not aftermarket Sierra (or other) parts.

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Tom I removed the prop to inspect the shaft and I'm draining the oil because I have no idea when it was last changed. The model # is J30ECUB with SN # E6250892. So do you lower the lower unit a small amount and the shift linkage " coupler " will be visible ? Are there specific problems with Sierra parts ? Right or wrong that is what I ordered. Thanks

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Get a factory service manual for that specific motor rather than the aftermarket manual you have - if you are going to work on the motor yourself, it's money well spent.

The factory manual will likely tell you what you need to know. I am familiar witht the 60/70 triples; on non-VRO versions, you have to undo a bolt to disconnect the shift rod, and on the VRO models it uses a sliding pin connected to the shift linkage. In neither case do you drop the gearcase until you have the shift rod disconnected.

Tim

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It is always a good idea to pull the propeller and clean/inspect the propeller shaft and then re-grease it before reinstalling the prop. This should be done at least once a season.

Likewise, it is good to change the gear oil at least once a year. But this has nothing to do with changing the water pump; I just want to make that clear for anybody reading this.

I have not changed the water pump on an OMC 30. I would follow the procedure in your SELOC (or Clymer) manual; it should walk you through it step by stem. I agree that the factory manual is good to have too, but ideally one would have both. I find that the factory manuals and the aftermarket manuals provide information that the other does not, so I use both.

Let me caution you about a very common problem, especially on saltwater motors and/or where the lower unit has not been dropped in a while. The bolts holding the lower unit on can become seized and it is VERY EASY to simply shear the heads off of the bolts when trying to remove them. Be gentle, do not use too much torque. If the first bolt gives you trouble, then stop and apply some penetrating oil and wait a day or two to let it work. You may have to use a combination of oil, heat and/or impact to free those bolts and it might take a while ,but it is less work than trying to dig out sheared off stainless steel bolt shanks in the aluminum casting of the mid-section. Been there, done that.

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There are no specific problems with the Sierra water pump kits, the OE kits are simply higher quality and more durable and include ALL the gaskets and seals you need. The added cost is low, so why not?

The Sierra water pump kit for a 1987 Johnson 30 can be bought for as little as $30, but the OE kit form BRP can be had for only $37.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/brp...93630.html

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Thanks everyone for the advice. I will study the manual that I have and drop the lower unit. Today I pulled the upper/lower drain/fill plugs they were in there pretty good. But my handheld hammer impact popped them loose and the gear oil that came out was pretty dark so needed to be changed. Doesn't drain real fast in 30's temps. To be safe I'll hit the lower unit bolts with some PB Blaster for the next few days, I really don't understand why the factory or any DIYer doesn't use anti-seize compound on every nut/bolt ? I've been wrenching on cars for 40 years now and use it on most everything it just makes sense and costs nothing to speak of.

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Ringleader I have yet to place this rig into the water. It has been a one year restoration that is coming near the end. But to answer your question I plan on using in freshwater only.

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Don't use anti-seize on the bolt threads when you reassemble, use BRP/Evinrude Triple Guard Grease. There'll be no interaction like with the ingredients in the no-seize it and will protect the threads well making removal easier next time.

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Tom's sage advice is well, sage.

I have a 1991 Yamaha 40hp and the impeller had never been changed in 20 years. Last year I decided to tackle the job and all but one bolt came off quite easily...except the one under the trim tab which broke off.

Long story short, after a man vs. beast struggle lasting a month and with the aid of a Mahew Stud extractor, man won.

Another issue I would caution is regarding the direction of the new impeller. Improper insertion with the possibility of a broken wane being sucked into the power head is a nightmare not worth having....is any nightmare worth?

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I helped my buddy do his 1987 25 last year, should be the same motor. The shift linkage disconnect should be behind the water pickup screen. I think you shift into forward before taking apart, And ditto on making sure the impeller veins are going the proper direction, take a picture to refer to when your taking it apart. I put a very light coat of grease inside the housing for the impeller to ride on. Also grease the end of the copper tube that goes back up to the power head from the impeller housing and the top of the drive shaft. This makes reassembly much easier. I've also seen a kit come with 2 different size impeller keys, if it does make sure you select the proper one or your impeller won't pump water, good luck!