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I raised my transom 5" on my 1988 Outrage 22 to accommodate the 30" leg on a used 225 HP Evinrude E-Tec that I purchased. The mechanic mounted it utilizing the top holes which position the leg the deepest. I know there are several posts regarding this issue, but wanted to upload some pics to get your all opinion and advise on whether or not I should raise the engine, and if so, how much. At about 5,500 RPM, the engine kicks up a ton of water, in all directions. I will post a pic of that too.

Thanks for your help!

http://s1299.photobucket.com/albums/a...topsphoto/

(removed multiple photo links to show only one link for your entire album on this subject)

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Go up 2 holes.

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All the photos in those individual links were upside down for me. I removed those links. (see below)

It is also better to put just one link to your entire album on photobucket like this:
http://s1299.photobucket.com/albums/a...topsphoto/

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An Evinrude E-TEC 225 on a classic 22 foot Whaler should be mounted three holes up (as high as it can go).

If you are using an XXL (30") shaft length motor which is five inches higher than the recommended XL (25") shaft length motor but also have increased the height of the transom by five inches, then the same mounting should be utilized.

If you made the transom five inches *longer*, the top of the transom may not, in fact, be five inches higher because transom slopes backwards. In this case, having the motor mounted as high as it can go may still leave the motor lower than it's optimal position.

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Thanks Joe

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Thanks Tom.
In most of the posts that I've seen that you've commented on regarding"mounting" Etecs, it seems as though that you are the greatest advocate for mounting them high. With that being said, I will be taking your advise, and moving my motor up "all the way".

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I added another photo to the bucket showing the mounting holes. So with Tom's advise, I plan on moving the engine all the way up, 3 positions.

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The photos are still upside down. I suggest you delete them and reload them to Photobucket in the proper orientation.

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Interesting, the photos have NOT been upside down since I first viewed his album yesterday.

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Like Dave, I see everything right side up. I did yesterday too. Browser differences?

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For whatever reason, it seems like the V-6 E-TECs have the A/V plate a greater distance form the motor mount brackets than other brands. It needs to be set higher to compensate for this.

Moving the motor up three holes is only going to gain you 2-1/4" and you can see in your fifth photo that the motor height will still be pretty modest even at that.

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Phil, when I load the photos they are right side up. Are you suggesting that the "proper" orientation may be to upload them upside down?

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Thanks for the info Tom!
I'll work on raising the engine to the bottom holes and go from there. If you were in my shoes, would you install a jackplate to raise the engine higher than 2-1/4"?

I'm on a Mac using Safari as a browser.

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I am on a Mac using Safari.

Yesterday, the individual links were all upside down.
When I went to your album, all the album photos were correct.

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raise the engine first and see where that puts you both from a height and performance. If the cavitation plate is not out of the water on plane, trimmed out running at speed you may need to go to the jackplate option. The setback on any jackplate will change how the boat handles, how it sits at rest and how she runs when on plane.

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When I view the album, all the images are oriented correctly. When I select an image, it loads upside down.

Here is an image of the anti-cavitation plate of my 3.3 liter 200 HP Etec while on plane:
http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d97...r=noflash/

Note the difference in the water level on the lower unit on your image compared to my image.

This is a 2005 model engine on a 1989 Outrage 22. It is mounted on a manual jack plate:
http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d97...er=noflash

A 30" shaft would be nice. I think I would like the transom being 5" higher.

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Photobucket seems to be doing some weird things.

Doug, what browser are you using.
Windows Explorer?
Windows FireFox?
Apple Safari?
Other?

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I've been thinking about it for a while too as the low transom swamps the boat when at anchor or on the mooring and the swells start to roll.

If the E-tec gets mounted all the way up, it would seem the transom could be built at least 7-1/4" higher? I'll take all the transom I can get.

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The only concern I would have is how much you trust your transom raising work. A 22 Outrage has always needed a 30" transom, and BW started doing that on most of the 22 Commercial models they made in the 90's. So it is a nicer detail than using a jackplate, but I don't know the structural mechanism they use to accomplish that height, done after the boat comes out of the mold. I assume some sort of wood or SS dowleing is used in the transom plywood.
Raising a heavy engine like yours, about 560# actual weight (according to a magazine that actually weighed one of these and found them 40# heavier than listed) where most of the transom bracket stress is on your new work, may be of concern. Only you would know the answer, but at least be aware the additional stress a high mounted engine can be. You wouldn't want the top bolts (which carry most of the stress) to rip your work right off.

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Good photos Doug.
As compared to my engine, it seems as though the distance between the plate just above the anti-cavitation plate to the section with 4 screws and 2 ports facing forward (sorry I don't know the terms for these engine parts) is about 4" shorter than mine. In the photo that you posted of your boat at plane, your ACP is about an inch below the waterline. From the water line to the tip of the skeg is roughly 16". With that being said, I'll need to raise my engine approximately 9" to get my ACP to the same level as you.

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This sounds like a great plan. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks.

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Joe,

I am using an iPad.

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Doug,
Now looking closely at both of the photos you have of your boat on the trailer and at plane, it looks like the engine is at a different setting. On the trailer, It looks almost all the way up (based on the 2 bolt heads on jack plate) and in photo at plane, it looks as though it's set at 50%.

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Doug's E-TEC is mounted using a jack plate. Its height is necessarily different from one bolted directly to the transom.

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Got it.
I was looking more closely at Doug's 1st photo and comparing the engine hight/setting to the second photo. It seems as though that if he ran his boat at the setting that the engine is in the 2nd one, it would be 2 or so inches more out of the water at plane.

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The image of the boat/engine combination in the carport was taken right after the outboard was hung on the jack plate. I raised it up later, while I was doing the balance of the rigging. I can take a more current picture and post if needed.

I probably could raise it little more, but I havn't gotten around to it yet.

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Thanks Doug for the very helpful info and pics!

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I raised my engine all the way up to the highest setting. I posted a few photos in my photo bucket page. I really like the way it rides now. Any thoughts?

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The pic's of your A/V plate while on plane look exactly the way ours looks (200 HO) after raising the engine all the way, still a bit buried.

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It does look a little buried but it also doesn't look very trimmed out. The plate should be above or at the water surface, when the boat is on plane and the outboard trimmed out. What prop and what are you seeing at WOT?

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I'm not exactly sure what prop is on there. I'll check it out when the boat is back on land. I'll also try trimming while snapping different photos. The photo of the engine at plane is at 5k RPM. I didn't quite get to WOT because of the "bumps in the road".
Looking at Doug V's photo of his boat at plane, it seems like I'm about 1/2-1" deeper. Does that seem right?

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take a look at my personal page. I uploaded a photo of my E-Tec on plane, trimmed out.

You didn't say what year outboard but here is a link to the optimum RPM ranges which is what you should prop for.
http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post?i...id=5396435

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I have a 2009. I'm pretty sure the original owner of the engine put the "recommended" prop, per Evinrude. Off the top of your head, would you know how to identify what model 3 bladed, Viper I might have?
I hope that making trim adjustments on my engine can yield the same setting as your engine.
Thanks.

EDIT:
Changed the abbreviated year to the full 4 digit year of 2009.
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...d_id=15197

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If there isn't a part number on it i'm not sure, but Tom Clark may be able to help. I run a Merc 4 blade on mine.

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Keep in mind that like Doug, Kamie is also using a jack plate.

Kamie, just curious, did you go right to the jack plate or did you initially mount the E-tec directly to the transom?

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I had the jackplate before I had the E-Tec. I installed in in 2005 when I added the stern seat to clear the splashwell for storage and move the engine back away from the stern seat. I toyed with taking it off when I added the E-Tec but decided not too since I occasionally do put the stern seat in. I also like the extra storage space in the splashwell for a cooler.

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I'll try trimming and dial it in as best as I can. Last resort will be a hydraulic plate from Bob's.

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See if you can dial it in before you go the jackplate route. Not to say jackplates are all bad, but they add stern weight, they change the static trim at rest, they alter how the boat handles so be prepared for changes.

I realize that totally flat water may not be possible where you are, but see if you can get some GPS speeds and RPM's at WOT. Remember to trim out until the prop starts breaking loose, then trim in a bit. 2009 range at WOT should be 5500-5600 RPM. If your in that range, I wouldn't worry too much about where the plate is, it sounds like your pretty close to having it at or above the water surface.

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Great advice!
Thanks for your help.
I'll keep posted.

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I had a chance to work on trimming my engine out today. I uploaded a photo, as well as a video of the procedure that kamie recommended. I did it at @ 5500 RPM, and got about 46MPH out of her. I don't have my Garmin hooked up yet, so the MPH came off of a iPhone app. It was pretty windy (flat though) therefore, the MPH could have been wind aided.