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Looking to purchase a prop for the 17 Montauk. My mechanic told me don't waste money on a stainless. He suggested a four blade prop. Any suggestions or thoughts? (90 hp evinrude 1998)

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Did your mechanic give you an explanation as to why he thought you would be wasting money by gettng a stainless steel prop? I have never seen a motor that didn't perform better with steel vs aluminum, not to mention the difference in durability in the steel vs the alum. I'm just curious :o

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He told me that the only reason for using a steel prop is for performance racing, not for use in the back rivers of MD in a 17ft boat. He continued to say, stainless won't give and will cause more damage to an engine if you hit something or run a ground. I have always had a stainless, but willing to try a four blader.

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jddar,

Your mechanic has given you some bad advice on two fronts.

Stainless steel is desirable for numerous reasons. Stainless steel is far stronger than aluminum and less likely to bend, break or erode. Thinner blades allow less resistance and more speed. Stronger blades support more cupping at the trailing edges and more radical blade design, which will mean more top speed, faster acceleration, less ventilation and better fuel economy.

There are dozens more options of propeller models to choose from in stainless steel than aluminum. There is a reason why aluminum props are only made in one or two models per manufacturer; they are cheap crap.

The old wives' tale about stainless steel damaging your motor's lower unit if you hit something is BS. All propeller have hubs that will give if there is a serious blade strike. With aluminum the blade will break or bend if you hit ANYTHING and off to the pop shop you go. Stainless steel props will withstand FAR more abuse. Sand and gravel don't slow them down at all. Driftwood? no problem. I stopped using aluminum props about 25 years ago. Too much time and money driving to the prop shop.

Oh, and by the way, I boat in Puget Sound which is full of debris. I have hit chinks of wood at speeds near 50 MPH. I have destroyed numerous aluminum props in my youth. I have bent a stanless steel propeller blade exactly once (last year going 46 MPH in a test run) and I have NEVER had any lower unit damage to any of the two dozen or so outboard motors I have owned.

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A Montauk with an Evinrude 90 is not going to perform as well with a four blade prop. The most efficient propeller for your boat is going to be a stainless steel three blade propeller in something like a 13" x 17" size. BRP offers the SST and the Viper lines, which are the same as near as I can tell but for the polishing of the Viper.

There are also excellent and in some cases superior aftermarket propellers available too.

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Thanks to all. Great advice. That is why I love this site.
Joe

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yes i have an 88 hp evinrude with a steel prop i just put on and took off the aluminum one it is much better and i get about 200 more rpm its a 13 3/4 x 17
im going to try a 13 3/4 x 15 soon il let you know i was having a hard time getine to 5000 rpm with an alumimum i get just over 5000 with the stainless, ive been told i should lift my moter up a notch too will see may i will

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- started new thread on new topic -

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This is an interesting topic, no doubt that a stainless will out perform an aluminum. I will give the mechanic that suggested aluminum a tiny bit of credit. If Jddar is running in a river loaded with debris, stumps, rock, shallows, may be best to consider a prop with replaceable blades. I know nothing on how these preform. Also aluminum props a have improved over the years.

As far as performance data, I run a 19 inch Yamaha K series stainless on my 17 ft with a 90 HP 2 stroke. I can squeeze 5200 RPM with a light load trimmed out, although I need to be moving with the wind or no wind to get there...;) Interestingly I am able to get to 5700 with a moderate load (2 large people full tank) using a 17 inch SS (also seems much easier to get to 5700... though) I may sightly modify the 19 and try or raise the engine a notch.. right now its sitting directly on the transom. I would guess I am running at 42 to 43 mph with either of these at WOT.

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We were water-skiing last summer in a local lake, and right at the begining of a start up for a run ran into some rocks in my cousin's boat (22' Wellcraft w/200 hp Johnson and 3 blade SS prop). Did some damage to the prop and the carrier seal started leaking the next day, so we had it repaired at the Marina. Short version is that 2 outings later, the lower unit gears failed and it was a total write off. They told us that when you hit something hard with a stainless prop, often times a gear tooth is fractured, but won't give out right away. Weeks or months down the road it will fall out and get chewed up, which seems to be what happened in our case. They did recommend a aluminum prop when boating in shallow waters because of the give, which seemed to make sense. So if it is bad advice, it's pretty prevalent.

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Tuff crowd,.

Stainless is High dollar, Make sure you have needed pitch and diameter, You might try some prop exchange services thru i-boat or http://www.piranha.com

All props yes have the rubber insert tork spline takes a bunch of abuse,

Hitting items below surface on know your prop is bullet proof Way to many variables and different realities,.

Gota keep the service adn parts guysin business, same a loosing fishing gear.

From the saddle
Bill