Posted by mwb10 on 04/29/07 - 7:06 PM
#1
I took my currituck apart today after being on the lake. I have decided it needs to be refinished. This is the first time it has been apart in its thirty seven years. It has been varnished a couple of times in the boat but I want to strip it to the bare wood this time. My question is, what is the best way to do it these days? l still see varnish is used but also see epoxy and polyurethane are other ways. I also see varnish being applied after epoxy, dont quite understand that. I would like to apply whatever is the best and longest lasting shine.
Thanks
Posted by Dan Dawson on 04/30/07 - 11:26 AM
#2
Simply refinished my 1967 with Captains Spar Varnish 7 to 10 coats. Jamestown Distributers recommend Denatured alcohol to clean wood after sanding, tack cloth Denatured Alcohol then finally revarnish. I feel the alcohol has improved the finish and it only takes seconds to apply/dry. Recently heard about epoxy but do not know much about it. I find Jamestown Distributers most helpful about these questions also with the most reasonable prices. Good Luck and patience be with you. Dan
Posted by jvz on 04/30/07 - 7:57 PM
#3
I used to be a big fan of Captains varnish .... Two months ago i striped everything on my 86' Outrage 18' down to bare wood, i started with 60 grit and worked my way to 320,using a electric palm sander. Change your sandpaper often ,don't let it clog up. Make sure to use a shop vac and clean the wood in between grit changes ,also to keep the work area clean.
After the final 320 sanding, i checked to make sure all the little swirl marks made by the orbital sander were sanded out and no longer visible.. (use a soft sanding block for this) One final pass w/ the shop vac and wipe down the wood w/ a cotton diaper or soft cotton towel (rag) using denatured alcohol, let dry and one final swipe w/ a tack cloth and you are good to go. Keep the tip of your brush wet,don't let it dry and drag in the varnish.
I used Sikkens Cetol "Natural Teak" , about 5 coats .... after the first two coats ...very very light scuff w/ 600 in between coats and of course tack cloth in between each coat.
Final coat w/ Sikkens clear. Take your time,there is no rushing the teak /mahogany work and good luck !
Sikkens is easy to maintain as well
I have a few pics on my personnel page if you would like to check them out.
JVZ
Posted by Dan Dawson on 05/01/07 - 7:14 AM
#4
Curious about this epoxy idea for refinishing because I have been hearing it in the news lately. Talked to Jamestown Distributers. There boat customers are not using epoxy. Staying with varnish. They do have outdoor furniture customers using epoxy for the first coat. They use the Smith epoxy product. Epoxy has no UV protection. I read about Smith epoxy and it does restore old wood that needs some reinforcement due to rotting.