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I was going to disconnect the fuel line and run the carbs dry, then pull the plugs and spray fog the carbs and cylanders. This is our first larger outboard, so I wasn't sure of the exact steps. The boat fuel tank is about 1/2 full - I was going to add stabilizer - doesn't make sense to have 25 more gallons of old fuel next year.

I'm wondering if I should add anti-freeze through a clamshell, I not sure if all the water will drain or not and the boat will be stored outside for the winter.

I plan to remove the battries and store them inside over the winter on a trickle charge.

Any tips will help, thanks...

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-Grease:
all the engine fittings
steering rod (add steersman nut if not already installed)
trailer wheel bearing buddies
Trailer jack

I follow the recommendation of either full or empty fuel tank.

Remove the inspection covers to let the tank cavity dry out.

Skip the antifreeze. Raise the trailer jack so any water drains. Pull all the plugs.

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I am using a 6 gallon remote tank with non ethonal gas to run my outboards for the last time. Using stabalizer in it as well. I do disconnect fuel line and run until it dies but that does not remove all gas from fuel bowl on carbs. The fogging is actually supposed to be sprayed in carbs with motor running for storage, if you spray in plug holes I would crank with plugs out or disconnected for a few seconds. It is also recommended to change lower fluid in fall instead of spring [moisture or something] I usually do in spring though. Having said all that I try to run mine at least once a month, even if just on muffs. I am also in Md.

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You should not disconnect the fuel line to run the engine dry if you have VRO.....
Use stabilizer, sea foam, etc. and run the engine until you make sure the stabilizer gets into the carbs... This is guess work unless you take the boat out for a run....

Lower the engine and that will drain most of the water out.
I leave my engine down for the winter to make sure the water drains out of the lower unit.... Never had a problem....

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Timely thread, I was thinking of asking the same thing. Thanks

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Thanks everyone for asking and answering this awesome question.

I guess I made the right choices since I medicated the filled/full fuel tank, changed all fluids and filters and took the boat out on the lake for a good warm up and infusion of the medicated fuel into the carbs and such. I like it when I stumble into the right choice.
The engine is now vertical and all the water is drained. Next week I shall get it into it's own room.

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Thanks for the info, I don't have VRO - just add oil to the tank when I fill it. One of my tasks for next season is replacing the fuel guage, mine is stuck in one position and is fogged out. I will add the stabilizer before I run the motor to fog it.

Without a gauge I'm not sure how much fuel is in the tank, so I'll need to guestimate on the stabilizer mix. The boat was run for about 4 hours since the last fill up - mostly slow running (still trying to fugure out an estimate for GPH on the 150). Any ideas how to verify whats in the tank? We only took it out a few times since we got it this summer, still on the first fill up.

Thanks,