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Hi Folks,

There's a debate regarding whether to use a transom saver for a long haul.

Do you have any advice?

EDIT:
Please keep discussions on this site.

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If its all all possible to keep the motor in a vertical position, that is the best way, It works for me on my 13 foot Whaler. and also on my antique boat. I don't even tilt them up when launching and the boats just float off without the outboard touching. Maybe its a deep V Thing that you need to tilt the motor.

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I think if you do a search here, there are several informational threads on the topic.

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my original post pointed to a thread on another site... and that provided useful context... but my post was edited.
so much for a free and open web.

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What do you expect? We come here to discuss things on THIS site and you link us away to some other site! I'm glad the link was edited.

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I have to use one, not so much for the transom but my ptt. I have to raise the engine, as it sits too low on the transom and will hit the pavement. One time I didn't use it, which was the first time bringing the boat home, the bouncing caused a leak in the trim/tilt gaskets. Now I use one EVERY trip, I just trailered 350 miles, and added ratchet straps and a rope around the lower unit (just snug) to be sure no bouncing. I guess it works, NO MORE LEAKS!

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A search using the exact words "transom saver" resulted in 88 posts:

http://www.whalercentral.com/search.p...p;chars=50

Get a cup of coffee or your favorite drink, find a comfy seat and have a good read.

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I use a transom saver on my classic 13'. I towed my boat from South Florida to Dallas Texas without one a few years back. As a result of that trip, my transom cracked. I've since repaired the transom, installed and use regularly a transom saver with no issues at all. In fact I've made thre round trips to south Texas and back as well as four round trips to Atlanta Georgia and back to Dallas using the transom saver and have had no issues at all.

There are those that say not to use a transom saver because they feel the transom savers transfer road vibration from the trailer to the motor and transom. I have to disagree because I cracked a transom by NOT using a transom saver and ever since I installed one, I've not had any problems at all.

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I use one all the time on my smirkless 16. In my opinion the forces exerted on the transom from bouncing an unsecured motor are far greater than than those using a transom saver secured on both ends and a properly secured boat to trailer hold down. If the trailer springs are correct for the weight of the boat they won't transfer enough road shock to cause any problems. a light weight boat on a trailer with heavy weight springs could be another story altogether

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When the motor is vertical on my 190 Outrage and the trailer is hooked up to the tow vehicle AND it's level in the garage I have about 1 1/2 inches between the skeg and the pavement. That's waay too close for comfort. It's a no brainier for me. Transom savers are cheap and lower units are expensive. Also some transom savers have shock absorbing ribber inserts in the support tube. Further, the Mercury manual says NOT to use the built in motor support when trailering. (Not what the dealer said, but I choose to follow the manual.)

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I see no nead to tilt the motor on a classic 13 when trailering. Mine has been from MA or NJ down to the FL keys many times without one crack in the transom. I don't see a big difference in stress between hitting a pothole on a sprung trailer and hitting a bad set of waves. If the transom can't take the stress I'd rather it crack on dry land than miles from land!

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The subject has been discussed many times on this site. Some people like them and some don't. I use them on both my boats. As Phil said look up the links and decide if it is right for you.

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You are probably 100% correct with your boat on your trailer. All trailers are not the same height and as many here can attest, our skeggs drag or sit just an inch or two above the blacktop. My 16-7 Montauk when sitting level on the trailer has the skegg on the blacktop, I already ground an inch off of it when the tilt hold failed going over a bump!. If I don't use a transom saver or some other solid tilt mechanism then I will be replacing the lower unit.

The question here is if your lower unit is safe and high enough off the ground in the down position when trailering then you don't need to tilt it or use a transom saver and that is the best. If you do have to tilt the motor to make the lower unit high enough for safe trailering then some form of support is a wise idea. The farther out your lower unit is when tilted the more stress it puts on the transom when running on bumpy roads and dips.

If I could get a "DO OVER" I would buy a trailer that was much taller and would keep at least a foot between the pavement and my skegg so I could leave the motor down. I would have a heck of a time on a shallow ramp though launching and retrieving the boat and likely need to have the exhaust pipe well under water and good hip boots for the process. I don't necessarily like them but tilt bed trailers were designed for this exact reason.

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Good information here, glad to see the subject and reading material, thanks.

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Yes, very good topic......can never be discussed to much.