Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by Mark Finkenstaedt on 07/31/11 - 8:53 PM

Once in a while my 2010 E-TEC 150 will not start with only a metallic flywheel noise. (of course this happens only with a boat load of friends and kids aboard usually waiting their turn on the towable) (yes it was working before I shut down for swimmers to board from a towable toy)

I try binnacle starting resets/procedures but my dealer said try hit the black thing on the side of the motor (once the cowling is off) with a hammer. It works - every once in a while - eventually... but - crickey this is 2011 motor! (with a few dings now). I don't see anyone else hittting their Mercury's, Yammies - to get started.

What's with this ? Bad advice from the dealer? (say's it's acomputer motor protection but whacking it to reset?)

This happens once in a while when we stop and I'm usually very careful to return the lever to neutral. Almost left me today with a very expensive tow home. Final whack did it whilst waiting for the tow boat.

What's going on and is there something better I can do then play whack-a-mole with my fantasic and really expensive new E-TEC 150.

Posted by seahorse on 07/31/11 - 9:29 PM

Whoever told you at the dealership - a parts person, a salesperson, or a factory trained tech - is giving you bad advice about using a hammer.

Hitting the "black thing" which is the starter frame can get very expensive if you break the internal permanent magnets with hammer blows. If the starter drive is not engaging the flywheel, then the voltage is low due to battery or cable connections, the starter is intermittent, or it has a mismachined starter drive that is covered in a last years service bulletin. Either talk with the service tech or manager, or find another dealer.

Posted by thegage on 08/01/11 - 6:22 AM

seahorse wrote:
Whoever told you at the dealership - a parts person, a salesperson, or a factory trained tech - is giving you bad advice about using a hammer.

Hitting the "black thing" which is the starter frame can get very expensive if you break the internal permanent magnets with hammer blows. If the starter drive is not engaging the flywheel, then the voltage is low due to battery or cable connections, the starter is intermittent, or it has a mismachined starter drive that is covered in a last years service bulletin. Either talk with the service tech or manager, or find another dealer.

What he said. Something's wrong in the starter/starter circuit, and something's definitely wrong with your dealer.

John K.

Posted by brorobin on 08/01/11 - 9:29 AM

I agree with evryone so far.

I had a similar situation with a Sears Lawn Tractor Tech. My 3 month old Lawn Tractor was fouling the spark plug on one cyclinder. Tech said "Uh, I can just leave you some extra plugs and when it fouls one out, change plugs." I was livid at his stupid a@@ remark. I told him to pack up his tools and get off my property. I then called Service Center, told them the situation and also that they should not ever send that tech to my home. Long story made short, one tech and 11 days later brand new replacment motor on my tractor.

The fact of the matter while there are some great tech and service personel, there are some bafoons out there that are only wanting to draw a salary.

Posted by Gamalot on 08/01/11 - 1:51 PM

#10

thegage wrote:
This would make great letter to BRP detailing their "helpful" dealer, and you can be so nice as to deliver a copy to the dealer--after you sent the original.

John K.

Even better than a letter you could just link this discussion to BRP. I am sure they would be thrilled and even more so if they view the current poll related to the ETECs.

Posted by Mark Finkenstaedt on 08/01/11 - 2:25 PM

#11

Thank you all - I feel like such a fool! I'm on it and will get to the bottom of this. Man, this makes me so anxious - like a call to arms.

Your all tops in my book,. Million thanks

Posted by kamie on 08/01/11 - 4:51 PM

#12

Mark,
Check your battery. I had the same issue if I was out, even turning the engine off for 5 minutes with the electronics on was enough to kill the battery below where it would turn over the engine. I replaced my single battery with two and got the extra charging cable from Evinrude. Your 150 has the ability to charge two batteries at the same time you should isolate your starting battery from a house battery to run electronics. makes a world of difference.

Posted by ioptfm on 08/01/11 - 6:21 PM

#13

Mark
With all you went through with that old motor and getting that new ETEC installed, that dealer should be doing all in his power to make you happy. My dealer told me that if my ETEC ever had to turn over more that 3 or 4 times without starting to bring it back to him as something wasn't right.