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I am making progress on the restoration of a 1966 13' Classic and I am getting ready to install a Kentfab adapter on the 15" transom. I am 95% sure that I am going to purchase a new 20" 30hp E-tec with remote/electric start and power trim/tilt. Before doing so I just wanted to check with anyone that has already done so. I remember reading a while back that someone had issues with this exact set up but I can't locate the thread using search. I remember someone saying that the engine sat too low and they were unable to get any further adjustment out of the e-tec bracket. I don't see why there would be any problems with a 20" transom and 20" shaft?? Anyone have this exact set up or have any input on doing so? I am close to pulling the trigger on this purchase but I would hate to spend so much money on a less than perfect set-up. Thanks guys and this has been a fun ($$$) project so far!!! Pics to follow!

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Someon did mention they were going to add a jack plate to raise the e-tec further. Seems crazy to have to do that after spending almost 5 bills on the transadapter. I just put one on and mounted an 88 force 35hp. Many say to mount the engine so the cav plate is 1" above the bottom of the hull. With only 2 mounting hole options on my engine and the holes drilled as high up on the adapter as I can while still getting the full washer on the upper bolts set on the adapter I am slightly below the bottom of the hull with my cav plate. I am very pleased with how the boat is performing. The adapter is very well made and follows the curves of the boat nicely. It's not just a blocky adapter so maybe the trade off for it's decent looks is the engine sits slightly lower than is preferred these days. The mercury engines seem to have four mounting holes versus the screw clamps on the e-tec. Perhaps the extra mounting holes will allow you to go higher which I think in my application might get me to the 1" above bottom of hull with the cav plate.

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Thegage is the member with the e-tec and transadapter and still needs to raise it more. Surfbetty had this combo put on and I believe is happy with it.

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Yup, was me. The main issue with my setup was that I got the non-power Trim-n-Tilt version of the E-TEC 30, which has screw clamps as the top mounting point. This means you can only raise the engine so high. Add to this the very slight dip in the top of the Transdapter and I had an issue where even mounted as far up as it would go (the screw clamps just barely gripping the top) the engine was clearly still too low, throwing up an impressive rooster tail as evidence. Since I had the eninge I had to deal with raising the engine some other way and got a jack plate. Yes a pain, but a very satisfactory result at the end. Of course, had I to do it over again I'd the the T-n-T version, but the jack plate has allowed me to exactly dial in height. And as noted, the Transdapter is a very nice piece, and the E-TEC is sweet.

John K.

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The e-tec TNT has through bolt mounting? If so that's good to know as I think I'd prefer the e-tec to the merc. I mentioned above the merc seems to have 4 mounting options. If the e-tec has the same...would that allow it to mount higher up, lower or a little of both? If you do go with the adapter be careful drilling the top holes. You need to consider the angles of he transom, both vertical and the top from back to front. If you don't and start too high on the engine side of the transom you will come out near the top of the transom instead of the inside face.

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There's a good E-TEC owners site. Follow the link below to get to the 2011 installation guide. The 2012 guide doesn't seem to be online, but I don't think it's much different from the 2011.

http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post?id=5370256

John K.

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Hi guys, yes i have a new Kentfab adaptor and a new 2011 30hp ETEC setup with power T/T. I am very happy with it. I had the ETEC dealer (Alantic Outboard in westbrook CT) do the install on the adaptor and engine. I notice that the engine is set up high. Where there is a "lip" on the engine where it looks like it would sit at the top of the transom, this "lip" is up higher than the top of the transom. I have some close up pics but have to post them (which takes me forever) if you message me and give me your email address it is easier and faster for me to shoot you a quick email with the pics.
It was an expensive process but the outcome is sweet. The old gal rides pretty darn good for a modified 49 year old boat. The weight is about the max I would say.

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Here's a couple of pictures of a 2011 Merc 25 4 stroke on the back of my 13. It's almost like they are making the shafts a couple inches longer these days. If I had a higher transom, they could have actually mounted my motor a bit higher. My cavitation plate is just even with the bottom of my boat.

[img]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr97/blacksmithdog/13%20Foot%20Boston%20Whaler%20%20Albion/motormountingsm.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i473.photobucket.com/albums/rr97/blacksmithdog/13%20Foot%20Boston%20Whaler%20%20Albion/motormountingsm2.jpg[/img]

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I'm glad to hear this. I'm interested in those close up pics so I can show the dealer when I bring it in. I'll PM you my email address if you dont mind sending them. Thanks for the replies guys. I'll post some pics when its all finished.

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That is quite high, especially considering it's already a 20" transom.

John K.

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John, I just looked at your personal page, your cavitation plate is probably 1" to 1-1/2" higher than mine. You can see where my motor clamps end up.

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A 20" shaft can be more and still considered 20".

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Hi I have a bad news update on my boat...well the new engine is great! so great that I've been taking it to the beach etc and having a lot of fun and, man, does it fly! Yesterday, I was at the beach and noticed that i now have new gel coat cracks on my transom to the right of the transadaptor on the top of the transom and along the outside of the transom at the top between where the transadaptor sits and the handhold. there are several cracks going in various directions. There are 4 old holes filled here where the old steering was connected. I guess these transoms are weak and 49 years is old for a boat. I'm reading up on the hull repair artlicles. :( I'm figuring these stress cracks happened either from the engine hitting bottom when beached or from going too fast and stressing the hull? I just hope I can fix it :( waaaa my boat! I'm sad. Just when i got it all nice and fixed up. any advice or words of encouragement? My friend said just seal it up with 5200 for the season and tackle the glass repair over the winter. I'm scared. It needs to dry out though before permnanent repairs. <sigh> :(

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After further inspection of my boat I would say about the transadaptor that make sure your transom is in good shape before putting it on. Any weak areas could crack as I have just found out. Especially around the area of the handholds where it is thinner and this area is general if there are any old holes from brackets etc. My boat is a 1962 though so it's pretty old.

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Sorry to hear that sb. I think it may be very important to get both sets o mounting bolts through the transadapter. With only the upper bolts going through the adapter it seems it puts to much leverage to the top of the adapter. This because those bolts only go through the adapter. There is no transom there. If you get the lower bolts through the adapter they also go through the transom giving the engine less leverage against the transom. Does that make any sense?

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yes totally. I am in the process of posting pics of my crack (ha ha) on my personal page. I think what you said is exactly right. The flex of the lower unit versus the force of the pull of the water and/or the force of stupid me not tilting up the engine fast enough in the shallows and having the engine hit the bottom put enough flexion on the transom and the weak area cracked. I'm hoping I can fix it. I have to take it out of the water and assess it more. The cracking is at the top of the transom above the water line check out the pic(s)

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Let's keep the repair discussion on the open thread:

http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...;pid=80496