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I've had my boat out a few times now. The previous owner told me when I'm flushing the engine, to disconnect the fuel line and let it run dry when I'm done flushing.

I've been doing that, but it takes me a while to get it started when I take it out. As soon as it starts, it starts instantly every time after that.

So, I'm thinking either I'm under-priming or over-priming when I plug the fuel hose back in and start it for the first time of the day.

It's a 1999 Honda 90 HP 4 stroke. Is there a certain amount of pumps or any other indicator that I should know it's primed?

When I'm struggling with it, the motor usually turns over a lot without starting. Then it might actually start, but die in a few seconds. Then I start getting concerned about draining the battery. A few more times and then I'm in business. Takes about 10 minutes.

This also hurts my ego a little as other boats launch and take off. :)

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Taco, how long are you leaving the boat between uses?

If it's less than a couple of weeks, don't run the motor dry.

If it's more than a couple of weeks, use a fuel stabilizer, and still don't run it dry.

If it's several months, running it dry is probably a good idea. If the Honda has an electric fuel pump, you can fill the carbs by pumping the bulb until hard, then turning the key to on to let the fuel pump run. Then off again, pump again. Repeat until the bulb stays hard, and it should start right up. If it's a mechanical or vacuum pump, then get used to cranking - pumping the bulb while doing so may help.

Tim

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Thanks Tim. I've been running it no less than every other week. I use fuel stabilizer, so I'll try keeping it plugged in next time.

I don't think it has an electric fuel pump. I don't hear anything when the key is turned on without the motor being on.

Thank you.

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I had a 1996, 75hp Honda for 13 years, it always started instantly if I pumped the bulb until hard and gave it full throttle with choke. As soon as it fired, throttle back and maybe flick the choke if it started to stumble. Have you tried full throttle with choke?

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Hi Paul,

It chokes when I push the key in to start it. I don't keep the key pushed in after it turns over though.

Maybe using the manual choke on the engine would be better?

When you had yours start immediately, was it after running it dry?

I do know I haven't been pumping the bulb till it is hard. Maybe that is part of the problem. I was always worried about flooding it from pumping too much. I don't know much about engines though, I was just guessing.

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When I bought the motor new, it was hard to start, the dealer told me full throttle & choke. Yes, I always ran the fuel out of the carberators. I think you should key the key pushed in while cranking, give it a try. Good luck

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Taco, if you have not been pumping the ball until it's hard, that's likely your problem. You can't cause flooding by pumping the ball too much - the float and inlet valve in the carb bowls will stop the flow when it's full, and the bulb will get hard.

I still think it's non-sensical to run the carbs dry every time, given your usage and the fact that you use fuel stabilizer.

Tim

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I agree with the above statements about running the carbs dry...especially since you're using the boat weekly.

I too used to run my carbs dry after each use.....but it became painful doing so after each trip especially since I'm running in the same fresh water lake all the time.

Now, I typically pull the boat(s) out of the garage, fire them up before I head tot he ramp and call it good.

Also, ICO the primer ball....also like what was said above, squeeze until the ball is hard......just a good rule of thumb.

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As tim said, you don't need to drain the carbs. You are making it harder than it needs to be.

My Montauk's motor was carb'ed and it sat for weeks at a time. No problems.

Most non-EFI motors have a unique procedure for a cold start. Each engine has a personality.

Experiment with choke and throttle to find what works (documenting settings and results will help you remember what you have tried). It takes time but once you have it, a cold start will be a no brainer.

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Hold the primer with the arrow, fuel flow direction, pointing to the sky when pumping the ball. It will not work well if you don't. Also, if the engine has oil injection, do not run it dry after using. This tends to fill the carbs with oil. Never start at full throttle.

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hold the choke in at least until the motor tries to fire. pushing it in and releasing prior to the engine trying to fire is not helping. Just hold it in give a little high idle as well.

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Thanks all. I also really like the idea of starting her up before heading out. Especially since I drive 30 to 60 miles to launch.

Can I safely start it up till it run for let's say 1/2 minute without hooking up a hose to the water intake?

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No.

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You need water to lubricate the water pump's rubber vanes. You will trash them in just a few seconds if you run dry.


I really think your entire problem is running the carbs dry. If you skip that, you'll be a lot happier. Try it in your driveway - let it sit, then go ahead and start it after your usual interval. You'll probably find it's reliable enough that you don't even need to start it before each try to the ramp - although it's never a bad idea.

Tim

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Never do that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Nice thread. For what it's worth, I run an 88' 90hp Merc and it's taken me nearly a year to feel confident in getting her fired up...sounds remarkably similar to my first year of marriage!

I ended up getting a hose adapter, sitting in my driveway for a weekend and trying different combinations of priming, choking, etc. until I found a pattern that works. For me, prime until firm, key in to choke, turn until motor sputters, back off, key out, turn, and presto. If I'm at the lake and launch and a buddy tries to "help" by firing it up, we usually end up sitting there for 1/2 hr while the carbs dry out. Oh, and I do NOT run the carbs dry. Hope this helps.

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I'm feeling good about this now. Unfortunately I have to keep my boat in storage or I'd go out and try it right now! ... I'll report back after this weekend. Thanks!

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Do not dismiss the above post about holding the primer bulb up. this allows the check ball to seat and actually push the gas. Hold it sideways and you will not push as much gas to the system. I think holding the choke in till she fires is the part your missing My self but you can let us know when you get back out in the boat.

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Ain't that the truth. All of my old carbureted Mercs could be a real PIA if the exact start procedure wasn't followed. I learned to get them all to fire pretty easily but as soon as I let somebody else try, it would inevitably lead to a 10+ minute waiting period because they would always flood the motors with too much choke.

Whole different engine but my procedure for a cold starting my Mercs was to pump the bulb until firm, let the motor turn briefly maybe a second or two with the choke, then release the choke and the motor would usually fire right up with the second twist of the key. More than a brief choke would flood em for sure making starting almost impossible.

Unless the motor was going to sit more than a couple of weeks, I wouldn't run the carbs dry.

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I kept the boat at the house (vs storage) since Thursday. Practiced starting from a cold engine each day. Today I took it out on the water and it only took about 3 or 4 tries. Probably 1 to 2 minutes down from 10.

Thanks guys.

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Other than not running the carbs dry, What do you think you did diffrent to aid in the cold start, if anything?

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I wasn't priming it till the bulb was hard, and wasn't holding the bulb any particular direction before.

I also may have been over-choking it with the key in once it was ready to fire up.

When it fires up, and the engine revs and stops, I have been able to start it without the choke 2 separate times.

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I always had a hard time starting my 1995 Johnson 90, until I finally hit upon a solution which starts it first time for me every time. In my case, the solution was to turn the key to "ON" without hitting the starter, push the key in to run the primer for about 5 seconds before trying to start, and then, keeping the key pushed in, turn the key to engage the starter. I sometimes have to push the key in once or twice for just a second to keep it running. I have the throttle set to run about 2000 rpm upon starting, and then kick it back to idle as soon as it is running.

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When you start the engine from cold and it fires up and rev's, then begins to rev down towards a stall, momentarily push the key in to give it a pulse of gas through the choke system as Paul describes. This is a very common technique and will keep the engine running so that you'll only have to turn the key once initially and not have to start it multiple times when cold. You may have to push the key in momentarily a number of times during warm up depending on your engine, but once you get a feel for it, you may be able to keep the engine running after only one turn of the key. Your starter motor will last much longer too. Give it a try next time.

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I went through a similar experience with the 1990 Merc on my Montauk. It took me the entire first summer of ownership to become proficient enough to get her to start on the first try. Now I don't even bother starting her ahead of time as 30 seconds of priming and prep on the ramp while waiting for a spot is enough.

As said, priming with the arrow on the bulb facing the sky and continuing until it is solid is very important.

As for starting, I use a similar technique to dave and press the key in and out of choke several times while starting, especially on cold mornings.

I also can say I use a fuel stabilizer with every fill of the tank and I have noticed an improvement in relialibility and smoothness while running.

Brian