Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Just a rant.
Posted by davis422 on 06/01/11 - 5:00 PM
#1
So my tilt trim (t/t) has not been working. I first tried a few things I read on here and got some good advice from a post I made. I then contacted MW (Matt) who has the same boat as me and always gives sound advice. After enough I broke down and took it to the local Johnson/Evinrude mechanic. After two dayswith the boat he looked it over called me back. He said I need a new t/t motor and gave me a price. I took the boat home to see if I could do it myself.
I researched a new one and was outside looking over the motor to figure out how hard it would be when my neighbor came over looked at the motor and said "should this black wire go anywhere?" I looked at it, said I wonder touched it to the block and the t/t motor worked.
I regrounded it and am back in business. I feel like calling the local guy and asking why. Would this be wrong? I was happy but also angry at the same time. If two guys drinking a beer can fgure it than why couldn't the guy getting $65.00 an hour.
Posted by kamie on 06/01/11 - 5:50 PM
#2
Find a new local mechanic, now when you no longer need one.
Posted by GIjaywhaler on 06/01/11 - 6:22 PM
#3
kamie wrote:
Find a new local mechanic, now when you no longer need one.
X2 on what Kamie said..
That is a shame the mechanic tried to hose you.
Posted by kamie on 06/01/11 - 7:13 PM
#4
I have had one stiff me as well, back when i first got my boat, I had engine issues. I took the boat to a mechanic who promptly told me the boat was waterlogged when really all that was wrong, was i have mis installed my new prop.
Posted by fishrswim on 06/01/11 - 7:21 PM
#5
You're not alone. I just got my new bimini and after bringing the boat home noticed that several of the stainless components were recycled from someones old top. And this was from the local BW dealer. Of course they said bring it back and we'll make it right. But that meant two days for me and four ferry rides, which they didn't offer to compensate me for. Needless to say, I won't be going back.
Posted by John Fyke on 06/01/11 - 7:36 PM
#6
Everyone stop drinking and take it to someone else. You will be better off.
Posted by Binkie on 06/01/11 - 7:41 PM
#7
Those kinds of business people also do poor work so they don`t get repeat customers, so they wind up hosing any new customers that happenchance by just to stay in business. Its a never ending cycle. If it was me I would contact that repair place and ask that question about the beer drinkers figuring out. LOL
Posted by CES on 06/01/11 - 8:41 PM
#8
This is exactly why I've always done my own maintenance. It doesn't take much to use the Internet and ask around for advice. More times than not, the advice given is indeed good advice.
Glad you figured it out.
Posted by Phil T on 06/02/11 - 4:45 AM
#9
Davis -
Good news indeed.
The certified factory mech's are $100-120 down here.
Now just get out there, this nice weather will not last!
Posted by Mark Finkenstaedt on 06/02/11 - 6:22 AM
#10
So the lesson is.. first - have the wife or neighbor look for the obvious! ;-)
My mechanic seems to have dropped me!
I referred a friend (and others) and that situation worked out poorly (no fault of mine). I have emailed several times for supplies and greetings but he's dissing me. Collateral damage I suppose.
No problem two can play that game. I ordered cheaper online and the stuff was on my doorstep within days - much easier.
Takes all sorts, but these boat people seem a special type of unreliable.
I'll see some of you tomorrow for the Potomac swim.
Edited by Mark Finkenstaedt on 06/02/11 - 6:25 AM
Posted by davis422 on 06/02/11 - 7:06 AM
#11
I guess I was certain that I was not the first this happened to. I guess that I was just a little peaved because I had trust in my guy. Thanks for the Private message I will now be going to the new guy.
Boat is hooked up, fueled up and I will be on the water in 20 minutes.
Posted by dreilly on 06/02/11 - 7:44 AM
#12
We should start a thread for "Worst shop experience". I bet there would be some really good ones.
Posted by duf on 06/02/11 - 12:23 PM
#13
how about a losers list of where not to go?
Duf
Posted by cmeichler33 on 06/02/11 - 1:22 PM
#14
I had a 35hp mercury that was giving my problems, i brought it too my local Merc dealer, dealer told me that it needed a carb rebuild, and water pump. Charged me $1090. bucks. I looked at the bill and it stated, changed lower unit oil. I asked him, why he changed the lower unit oil and he stated, you have to change the oil when you do a water pump! I didnt argue with him, I told him that I would not be taking my motor back to him. Also, not only did he rip me off and overcharge me, when i got home fuel was pouring out from the bottom of the carb. I should have told him to keep the motor. I never authorized him to change the lower unit oil, nor do you have to when changing the water pump! Lucky for me, I fixed the carb and sold the motor for $800. I didnt know how easy it was to fix a carb and change a water pump. You live and learn. This merc dealer is in Long Island NY, if anyone wants to know the name PM me!
Posted by John Fyke on 06/02/11 - 2:07 PM
#15
I would expect any mechanic to change the lower unit oil when putting in a new impeller. Are you serious?
Posted by dreilly on 06/02/11 - 2:15 PM
#16
I like Duf's idea. Can we start a "Shops to Avoid" list without getting in trouble? I have #1 on the list for East Texas.
Posted by rtengel on 06/02/11 - 4:43 PM
#17
FWIW - one of the first things I purchased with each outboard was a repair manual. The manuals are poorly written, but if you read them over and over enough while staring at your engine, you can generally figure out how to repair/replace/service many/most things.
Posted by CES on 06/02/11 - 6:18 PM
#18
Lower unit oil and water pumps aren't related. To do one without doing the other is quite normal. The mechanic was out of line for doing unauthorized work.
Posted by cmeichler33 on 06/02/11 - 6:46 PM
#19
John Fyke wrote:
I would expect any mechanic to change the lower unit oil when putting in a new impeller. Are you serious?
Lower unit oil and an impeller are two different entities. You dont have to change the lower unit oil when you change an impeller, especially if your going to be charged over 100 bucks!
Edited by cmeichler33 on 06/02/11 - 6:49 PM
Posted by John Fyke on 06/02/11 - 8:36 PM
#20
Get real.
Posted by Tom W Clark on 06/02/11 - 9:24 PM
#21
Changing the gear case oil and changing the water pump impeller have nothing to do with one another. The assertion that one must be done with the other is rather bizarre.
Posted by John Fyke on 06/02/11 - 9:39 PM
#22
How the heck do you drop the lower unit and not drain and replace the oil. Is that what you do with your vehicles as well?
Edited by Tom W Clark on 06/02/11 - 9:45 PM
Posted by Tom W Clark on 06/02/11 - 9:46 PM
#23
John -- I take it you have you never changed an outboard motor's water pump impeller.
The oil is contained within the lower unit. Removing the lower unit from the rest of the outboard does not change that.
Posted by John Fyke on 06/02/11 - 10:23 PM
#24
Thank You so much Tom I have, many times. I have never dropped a lower unit full of oil.
Posted by CES on 06/03/11 - 3:32 AM
#25
Depending on the size of the moter, lower units typically carry a relatively small amount of oil. My 40hp carries just less that a quart of oil in the lower unit. Larger motors carry slightly more but the weight of the oil is negligible. I just changed my impeller a few weeks ago and didn't drain the oil first, it was easy to do.
Edited by CES on 06/03/11 - 3:33 AM
Posted by awayland on 06/03/11 - 4:03 AM
#26
I've changed the impeller on many motors 3hp to 90hp without dropping the oil. But had to on my 260 V8 inboard outboard. If you don't when you separate the lower unit all the oil in the top half will come out anyway.
Posted by Sax416 on 06/03/11 - 5:21 AM
#27
I'm torn on the oil change thing. Does it need to be done when changing the impeller? Not that I've ever seen. Is it a nice gesture on the part of the mechanic? Not if he marked up the lube and charged you labor for doing it. Ive changed it every time I did my impellers but only because I'm already farting around with the lower unit and it's less than $10. If someone charged me $50 and I didn't ask them to do it I'd be a little ticked. Another point to conside is some people are very particular on the lubricants they use. I wouldn't want someone taking out my preferred lube and replacing it with some bulk no name lube.
Posted by CES on 06/03/11 - 5:30 AM
#28
Sax, no it doesn't need to be changed at the same time you replace the impeller. But, like you said, many folks do change the impeller and oil at the same time for the reason you've stated above. I've changed my lower unit oil many times without ever removing the lower unit from the engine, it's a simple process. At other times, I've removed the lower unit from the engine to change the impeller without removing the oil from the lower unit. The oil and impeller are two seperate entities and one does not rely on the other.
Edited by CES on 06/03/11 - 5:31 AM
Posted by Sax416 on 06/03/11 - 6:13 AM
#29
I'd change that oil every year as part of normal maintenance. If it happens to be on a year that the impeller needs to be replaced then I'd do it at the same time. If I brought my car in for a water pump I would not expect the mechanic to do an oil change. The only reason you would do that is if it was obviously overdue or the oil became contaminated during the job (highly unlikely/possibly impossible). If he charged you for it then that's a bad business decision on his part. If he did it for free or for his cost on the lube then it's just a mechanic treating your engine how he would probably treat his own. If it's the latter then he had positive intentions whether or not changing the lube in the lower case is required or not during an impeller change. If he charged you full price it's bs. Now for the gentleman who started this thread... That mechanic was probably going to clean and repaint your t&t and sell it back to you. That's bs.
Posted by cmeichler33 on 06/03/11 - 7:06 AM
#30
I guess this topic is a good debate, and good info for us what to expect when we bring our outboards in for service. I have taken the time to do things myself by reading this forum, service manuals and asking questions. I also have found a good mechanic. Unfortunately, there are some shops that are not very honest. This is a good thread to educate ourselves!!
Posted by tom blinstrub on 06/03/11 - 7:43 AM
#31
You are supposed to change gear oil when you put the boat away before winter because if there is water in the gear case the case can crack in severe winter temps. So if you were going to replace the impeller in the spring why would you change the gear oil again? Don't try to second guess the factory. I had a new 25 Tohatsu and it said to change the gear oil after 30 hours. I waited too long and had about 150 hours on it when I pulled the plug and nothing but water came out.My dealer's mechanic said the seal was bad from the factory.He said don't worry they will run with water. After 5 years of hard service the engine was still fine when I sold it. Motto is follow instructions.