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I just got 21 fittings replated at a local shop for just 90 dollars and they look great. The guy's website is http://www.phillipselectroplating.com/ating.com/ the secondary number is his cell, which seems to be the only one he answers.

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That sounds like a great price!
I got the bow light and the Norman pin re-chromed.
It looks great, but it was $70
I could not get the bow eye assy apart or I would have gotten it done at the same time.

Now I'm thinking about getting the side rail hardware done.

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My T fittings were junk so I bought new ones, but I got all of my other rail fittings rechromed there. So far I am very happy.

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One of the first things I did on my 1974 Montauk was to change the T fitting that were in bad shape. Fortunately the boat came with brand new T fittings in a bag that I believe were original equipment replacements.

I could find no way to install a new T on the rear side rails without cutting the rail. I believe that BW slid the T on before they bent the rail. The new T would not navigate the bend. I am sure this cutting weakens the rail to some degree but there is no way around it if the center Ts are shot. I don't honestly remember but I believe the forward rails were already pieced together at the Ts.

In searching for parts I did find a 2 piece T somewhere that screws together and would alleviate the need for cutting the rail if you can get the old T off.

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Gamalot -- I had the same issue w/ the t-fittings on my side rails. i had to cut them to slip the new ones on. However, once back together, I feel no noticable difference in their strength/stability. I'm sure there's some. But, as far as "working" strength, I believe they are withing manageable tolerance.

On my 13', the ends of the rails use mounting plate/brackets that attach to the outside hull, under the rub rail that have female threaded connectors for the rail mounting screws to connect to. Maybe not as "clean" looking as other methods that BW used, these offer a really secure mount for the rails as the mounting relies on the hull for stability, and not just a piece of plywood built into the deck.

I never use my side rails to lean on, pull myself up with, etc. anyway. To me, they're mainly for safety and for show.

Bruce

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If you use a hot dog to put the rails back together after you cut then they will be just as strong. That is what I did. However, I bought the generic T fittings from Twin Cities Marine and they don't line up properly. I am not sure what I am going to do yet, but I may have to drill all new holes for the T fittings.

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I did use a piece of Oak Dowel when I put them together. They seem plenty stiff enough for my needs. I had considered dropping the height of the rear most section on each side as it appears the rails will make it a high step entering and exiting from a dock. I left them stock for now but might still make that modification. Opinions!

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I like the oak dowel rod idea. I just ordered all new stainless replacement parts (norman pin, bow light, tow/lifting eyes, side rail and fittings) for my '80 13 sport. Are these replacements a bad idea?The originals were in decent shape but I received high quotes to re-chrome. One original side rail had a slight bend or dent which is why the pair are getting changed. I was hoping all mount holes would line up.

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I was quoted over 500 dollars to buy all new fittings in stainless, not including the bow light. Rechroming was the easy choice for me.

I would not have bought new side rails, just take the bent one to a fabrication shop. They could replace the damaged segment for much cheaper than new rails I would imagine. I wouldn't think the side rails would match exactly because I think some of the holes may have been drilled in in the rails during final installation but maybe.