Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by dthinds on 12/28/10 - 6:03 PM

Hi All!!
Just pulled my tank today on a 22 outrage. I found two quarter sized holes under the top deck mount straps.... So I guess I'm lucky to catch the problem before it got bad. Anyway I need a new tank. Any one have any suggestions for a supplier on the west coast. most of the label was corroded but I could read this portion: 72 gallons , Year manufactured 1979, gauge .125, model was @#$%^& BV or BW and the company was @#NKS.inc
really could not get much else from the label

Sound familiar to anyone????
What do people think of the Moeller tanks. Has any one used one in the under deck coffin area? if you have how is it working ?
Is there a pre made one out there or should I just take the old tank down to my marin welding shop and have them start a new one for me?

As always thanks ahead of time for the help!!
DH

Posted by dthinds on 12/29/10 - 8:22 PM

Hi All
Looking at all the old threads about installing new tanks and there are some very good discussions. I was hopping someone would have some feed back on what has worked and what has not worked. ... I like the the idea of putting Dry deck under the tank. This will allow the water that enters the compartment to move to the back bottom of the coffin. Then use a self priming bilge pump or a new scupper drain into the aft fish well to get the water out. I personally like to use plugs and bilge pumps rather then relying on self bailing .. Any thoughts ???
I would only use foam on the four corners of the tank for compression buffering. Then drilling out the spots for the tank strap mounts and add some G10 rode plugs to drill out and tap with threads. That would really beef up the grabbing strength of the strap mounts. That covers lift pressure and sloshing pressure. I could also glass in some G10 plates in the floor and add some brackets on the side of the tank to bolt down into the new mounting plates. For added strength.
What about baffles in side of the new tank... Has any one experimented with them to reduce sloshing???
Thanks for any input !!

DH

Posted by dthinds on 12/31/10 - 1:36 PM

OK I'm starting to get more and more confused on the best way to put a new tank in the outrage coffin. I just read David Pascoe article on "How to install an Aluminum Fuel tank"

http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

Do most people agree with this? Most of it makes a lot of sense except the no paint? I looked at most of the past threads that show tank installs and it seamsalmost all of the tanks where being painted with a epoxy or tar. Some one even suggested a spray on truck bed liner... This article says not to put anything on the tank so that the tank can breath and naturally repeal corrosion.
On the glue down has any one done this method with the angled floor of the coffin? Sound solid i was thinking dry deck or tank matts but this sounds better.....
Any one have any thoughts?
Thanks
DH

Posted by PJHarold on 12/31/10 - 4:27 PM

DH,
Where in California are you? I've had Berry Sheet Metal in Costa Mesa make a couple for me. 764 Newton Way,
Costa Mesa, CA 92627 Tel: (949) 548-3613. You have to take your old tank to them and they use its measurments for fabtricating a new one. If not, you can use Florida Marine Tanks the original supplier of your tank. http://www.floridamarinetanks.com. Shipping is the problem with that. You can see on my personal page part of the installation. I shortenened my tank and added a sump area and pump to remove water from the tank cavity. I agree with the article you referenced about the affects of trapping water against the tank. That's probably the most important factor in increasing the tank's life. If you paint it could chip and alow water to get trapped between the paint and the aluminum which is the worst scenario for coroding. Unpainted aluminum oxidizes and the aluminum oxide that is formed is a good protective barrier. Whatever you decide, Good luck.

Paul
1983 18' Outrage
Hollywood Hills, Ca.

Edited by PJHarold on 12/31/10 - 5:34 PM

Posted by dthinds on 12/31/10 - 7:02 PM

Thanks Paul!! I'm up in Monterrey Bay area so am looking at some fabricators around the bay area. Florida Marine tanks has been closed all week so I'll check in with them after the new year. Did you use the 5200 and plastic spacer method under your tank on your replacement?? Your boat looks very clean, great job.
DH

Posted by Phil T on 01/01/11 - 11:58 AM

DH

Regarding the proper technique for installing the tank, a majority of members I know or threads I have read go with the factory method. This is not to say the blocking method does not have merit.

Members who plan to own the boat for a long time or don't like the water saturation go with blocks.

An unscientific percent would be 70% foam it and 30% block the tank.

While I have dri-dek on my entire floor (see my personal page) I am not sure the material can take a significant load without compressing.

Blocking on the bottom of the V and the sides with space at the bottom for water to move is sufficient.

Hope this helps.

Posted by dthinds on 01/01/11 - 7:46 PM

Thanks Phil
I appreciate the input!!
I think I'm settling into the none painted Aluminum tank, blocked with a self priming bulg pump.... Could change but seams like the best long term method for setting it up.
As always I will gladly take feed back from all the more veteran restorers
Cheers
DH

Posted by Derwd24 on 01/01/11 - 10:11 PM

While you have it open, can't hurt to put a thru hull in to the rear fish well and leave a plug in it. That way if your pump ever quits or you don't have batt power, you still have a easy way to drain without having to pull the cover. Never hurts to have a back up method...