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I'm working on a deck modification for my 18. I am raising the forward part of the deck and bow area to be flush with the "steps" in the bow - about 10".

This deck is being assembled in pieces. The first section was finished on Saturday morning (photos are slowly becoming available on my personal page here) and the second section (deck only) was completed on Sunday. All that's needed are to chisel off the plugs, sand and varnish the wood.

Anyway - part of the project - the center portion in front of the console until the anchor locker, is yet to be completed.

Here's my idea - I want to make this a sliding "futon-like" section where the aft portion will slide up and become the backrest to a bench seat for the console (with a notch cut out for the shepherd's crook, and the forward portion will slide back and become the seat portion of this console seat. When it's time to sleep, it will slide out flat.

Additionally, I'd like to be able to access storage underneath the seat.

Any suggestions on how to do this? I'm planning a field trip to a FUTON store later this week to see how the mechanisms might work, but thought you might have some insight.

Dave

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Dave, If I understand you there is going to be 3 pieces to the deck? Could you do a quick side view / cross section sketch? That would go a long way to understanding your idea.

Here is an overhead if that helps
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/whaler18.jpg[/IMG]

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Jeff -

Thanks for the illustration.

Okay. Keep in mind that my console is moved aft about 3 inches from the standard Outrage configuration.

There will be 5 segments.

Segment 1 will be covering the anchor locker area, matched to the level (raised about 10 inches) of the step pads. There is a member here (Edwin) who has done this on his 18 (illustrated on his personal page).

Section 2 is to the port of the console, extending from about 6 inches past the forward part of the console forward to the edge of the anchor locker area. It is rectangular shaped with a slight cutout for the very aft portion of the raised step pad area on the port.

Sections 3 and 4 are 32 inches wide and fill the space directly in front of the console where the cooler seat is and where your feet are when you're sitting on the cooler seat.

Section 5 is the same as section 2, just a mirror image.

The "FUTON" would be comprised of sections 3 and 4. The whole contraption would lay flat to make the entire bow area one level for sleeping, with about 10 inches underneath it all for considerable storage that will utilize various rubbermaid containers for keeping things neat and dry.

The deck will be supported on the edges by a 1 inch wide strip of teak anchored to the fiberglass, and directly underneath, by strategically placed "pilings" made of 1" OD stainless steel railing (vertically mounted via 90 degree railing bases on the top and bottom).

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Dave it sounds like your turning your Outrage into a Revenge, ever think about buying one of those and swapping motors over etc?

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So is the platform going to be much like a Sakonnet?

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Bob -
Not at all.

Jeff -
Yes, very much so. The idea was inspired by a job from "Starlight Marine" that was featured nearly a year ago on the other Whaler forum.


Perhaps it should be clarified that the "futon" portion is only a very small section of the overall platform design. More like a "loveseat" than a futon couch!

I'll let you guys know how it turns out since I hope to have the whle thing designed by St. Patrick's day so I can spend April and May working on the little boat I bought for my brother. It will have a significant amount of work to be completed, and I'll need something to do while the many coats of varnish are drying on my platform.

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Dave,

Have a look at these...Is this what you are thinking?

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Misc%20Whaler/deck1.jpg[/img]
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[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Misc%20Whaler/deck2.jpg[/img]
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[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/jeff_rohlfing/Misc%20Whaler/deck3.jpg[/img]

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Jeff -

That looks workable! The "lounge" option would give me access under the seat to storage as well.

The big question is, how would I build such a thing?!

The teak would be running "the other way," but that looks like it would be a workable solution.

I have two 1/4 inch thick x 3 inch wide x 34 inch long aluminum plates that I can use as sliders on the sides - I could route out a channel in that to make this work....thinking now! I think I need to invite you over for a look-see at where I am and what I've done to move forward.

Dave

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You guys are nuts.
It would be easier to tow a zodiac for use as a separate bedroom.;)

Let me know if it'll work in my 22 :D

Peter

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Dave,
The Planks on your deck are going to run Fore to Aft correct, not Port to Starboard ? Also I was wondering how thick the decking planks are and what the dimensions of the cross member supports are.
When I made the prototype for the deck extension on my Montauk (out of cedar deck planks) I built it with the decking planks going port to starboard, in retrospect I think it would have been better (sturdier) for them to run Fore to Aft. I used a couple of standard size Milk Crates as support under the center of the deck (which doubled as storage), the edges rested on the lip inside the hull's gunwhales.
Might want to start watching garage sales and or curb side pickups for an old futon and grab it just for the hinge mechanism hardware......if I see one I'll grab it for you....

Pat

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Pat -

Correct - the planks are running for and aft, not port to starboard as depicted in Jeff's drawing (although that fact does not negate the validity of the idea depicted therein!).

The lumber is 1/2 inch thick teak decking, routered on the sides with a 1/2 inch roundover.

The support structure under the decking is 1 1/8 thick x 2 inch teak planks running laterally for support.

The superstructure will be made out of 1 1/8 x 2 inch framing, supported in key areas by 1" OD SS tubing (pillars - mounted to round 90 degree bases on the deck and under the platform). The heaviest support areas will be reinforced with 1/4 inch thick solid aluminum plate backing for rigidity and strength.

The deck itself is screwed together using #10 3/4 inch SS wood screws, countersunk into the wood.

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I really like what Jeff has drawn up there. Pretty clever idea! Keep us posted on your progress!

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Dave,

I'm curious if you've looked at materials other than wood. I ask due to the weight wood is adding to Gambler. I admit I love the look of wood but ...

Peter

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Too late Peter -

Construction is already in progress, although I'm using some aluminum plate to add stability and to keep the weight down.

Keep an eye on my Personal Page here for updates.

I'm stuck at home today *weather*, but yesterday I got a bit done before being forced to make the grueling drive home through the ice storm.

Yesterday, while working on the boat and thinking about the "problem" with the seat, I came to a realization: This deck is too low to work exactly how I had envisioned it, and how Jeff illustrated it. It just won't work.

This is good because it makes the project easier, but it will make me move in a slightly different direction on the design and layout for the rest of the project.

Dave

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Dave,
I like the idea but you've seen what I already carry on board for the boys & I and what I use for a tow vehicle so the weight issue came to mind.

Peter

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Peter -

My guess is that it will add no more than a couple hundred pounds. The locker cover will be replaced, and that is a heavy mutha!

I know you are really maxing your tow vehicle right now - but in the long run, which will you have longer - the boat or the tow vehicle!?

I really don't think it will make an appreciable difference. As you know, my tow vehicle is also at it's max capacity with my rig - I plan to replace it in another year or so with a Tahoe or similar vehicle with much greater capacity.