---

Thanks for all the info on the Ring Free post. Tuesday I replaced the spark plugs and found a fuel leak in a hose running to the upper carb, which I repaired. Started and ran like a champ in the yard. Went tubing today, ran like a champ for about an hr and a half, then I noticed the engine bogging down. More throttle was no relief. Back off on the throttle a bit, then add mor and back to normal. Wrapped up the tubing and heading in running at cruise, bogged down again.

I also notice that idle seems faster...I never adjusted anything...engine is idling and running much smoother, but seems to be idling faster and the bogging down issue. I checked what appears to be a fuels filter in the engine when I got home. Just a white plastic canister, cannot open it to change a filter unless its disposable...looked clear by looking into each end. Started the engine again in the yard, back firing occassionally now and when I rev it up the prop spins...slowly, but it never did before. Im thinking the control linkage?

---

I comented on your other post. Ring free will loosen the gunk in the carbs. It will run worse before it gets better. You can't tell by looking through the ends of a filter to see if it is clogged. If by chance it was, than it would be your fuel tank. I would change it anyway. Might be time for a carb re-build.

---

Don't mess with your control linkage! If you didn't touch it before, then it's fine now. You mentioned that your motor is idling higher now since Ring Free. The vibration from the motor and the higher revving at idle is making the prop spin. Unless it's spinning as fast as if it was in gear, I wouldn't worry about it especially if you didn't mess with the linkage to begin with.

You probably sucked up some more garbage into your carb while running her. Time to take it apart and do some more cleaning. Change your fuel filter too.

---

Careful
With most 2 stroke engines, fuel is also lube.
Running lean is death to two strokes!
Check the pump, replace the filter, verify the water pump.
Clean/rebuild the carbs.

---

I would in no way mess with the linkage...I know NOTHING about it! I think I'm gonna take it out one more time to burn up the gas in the tank "shocking" it with ring free to really clean out the carbs, then my season will be over. She will go to Almars Merc for a complete going over. Then maybe a test run and put up for winter.

I'd like to taker her out after the work at Almar (Merc dealer). Is winterizing myself something worthwhile, or should I just let them do it and tst run her in the spring...man that would be a long winter to wit to see how she runs!

---

Winterizing a small outboard is EXTREMELY easy. Once you've determined that you're done for the season, I'd disconnect the fuel line and burn all the fuel out of your carbs. Then I would drain each of the carb bowls of any remaining fuel. Then I'd make sure all of the water is out of your engine and lower unit. and finally, I'd remove each spark plug and "Fog" each cylynder with a fogging agent and then reinstall the spark plugs.

After all that, just cover her up and dream for springtime to arrive quickly!

Good luck!

---

Id winterize it now and spend the money in the early spring so your good to go for the whole season. Getting the stuff all rebuilt now and then sitting for the next 6 months your likley to have to do it all over again especially if you have fuel issues. Make your appointment with you repair shop just ahead of your boating season now and get ahead of the pack so you know your good to go as soon as the season starts. I would deffinitely spend the winter getting your whole fuel system on the boat ship shape then drop it off in the spring with all new fuel in the system and new fuel lines after they clean the carbs and link and syncronize the system you will have the best time in the boat. Its like having a valet warm up your car before you get in and drive off. If you need to spend the money do it when you get the most benefit and within your service warrenty.

---

When you winterize, don't forget about fogging the front end (reed box) thru the carbs as the engine is running down. Then you can pull the plugs and do the cyl's by hand once the engine has stopped.

I'd suggest getting it all squared away now as you don't want to eat up time going back and forth to the mechanic in the spring/summer if there are lingering or intermittent issues. Have him fix it, then take it out and run it. If it's good to go, winterize, if not, take it back. Things are a lot slower for him now than will be in the spring.

---

I think you still have some time left to enjoy your boat. I don't have much of an off season where I'm at. Enjoy your boat while you can. The winterize post is right on no matter if you fix the carbs now or later. You will still be good to go.

---

Hi...I don't really know what Ring-Free is, but the stuff I use for internal cleaning and carbon breakup is Evinrude's "Tuneup". It's an aerosol can with a tube that has a tire air valve connection. I hook it to my Johnson 90 which has a tire air valve sticking out of the throttle body (carb) area. With te engine running at about 1200rpm, I spray about half can into it then shut it down an allow the product to work overnight. The next day, I add some Evinrude carbon buster to my fuel and run the boat for at least 15 min. It might run a bit rough at first, but after doing this procedure once or twice at the most, my engine runs like new. It seems to be a good system. When I got my boat, my engine was starving at the higher range...my fuel hose was too small...since switching to a 3/8" hose and using the above...not a problem in the world...good luck...Ralph
PS - anyone out there ever use WestMarine's 2-Cycle oil? They have it on sale for $12.99/gal. and they tell me it's actually a Chevron product...might give it a try if I hear no negatives.

---

Conventional wisdom is to stay away from aftermarket 2 stroke oil and stick with OEM. The small savings in aftermarket price isn't worth the extra carbon build up and lower lubricating properties from the cheaper after market.

---

First, I am not a salesman, only passing along marina suggestion. Read about Stabil additive in relation to ethanol in the gas and what ethanol does to rubber - interesting reading. Another recent read was in relation to mixing oil and gas.

When adding gas and oil to a tank that is not empty be very precise about the measurements - I admittedly in other two cycle engines would do the ol' "that looks close" when measuring the oil to gas. When using the "that looks close" method of measurement, by the time your 6 gallon fuel tank has had just a few refills when not completely empty, the oil gas mixture really gets out of whack and will greatly affect performance. I have taken the precaution of buying a $3 two cycle oil measuring cup, and only fill tanks to even gallon amounts - makes it easier for my math.

May seem simplistic, but I'm simply. And it doesn't cost much at all to be "overly" cautious when mixing oil and gas compared to running an engine at 35:1 as opposed to 50:1.

---

HI, I had a air leak in my connector to the fuel tank, I connected the hose at both end without the connectors and my boat never bogs down now.

---

I pre-mix my fuel like a "Chemist" as well (I only have a 6 gal. porta-tank), I use the "Measuring Cup" too. My recipe is O.E.M. oil only, and 1 ounce of "Sea Foam" fuel additive per gallon of gasoline when making my "Witches Brew", it has never given me a fuel related problem yet, so I'm stickin with it ! I'm sure that as long as the 2 stroke oil is "NMMA" (National Marine Manufacturers Association) rated, it's "O.K." to use, I have noticed (although it was a few yrs ago) that the marine store "Bargain" brands, require more oil per gallon for the fuel mix. Evinrude OEM oil 50:1 was 2.8oz. per gal., and "Theft Marine" was 3.2 oz per gal......for what it's worth.